Thoughts/opinions on Amsoil for my 5.9
04-29-2011, 09:03 AM
#1
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Thoughts/opinions on Amsoil for my 5.9
Been considering going to the Amsoil product line lube w/filter,,, does it really hold up for 25K Mi. ???? anyone doing it with oil analysis on extended service???
Question # 3 which grade to get ??
Question # 3 which grade to get ??
04-29-2011, 09:37 AM
#2
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I have run it for many years in my 01. I change it twice a year. Once in the spring with the 15-40hdd and then in fall to the 5w-30. The 5w -30 sure made a difference in the cold winter starting. However I did not like running it in the summer. I know many folks do and found it to be fine and it probably is fine but I ran the 15-40 for my piece of mind in the 100+ heat. I ran oil analysis many times and found no problems running it 15-18k before changes but since I was changing it twice a year I had no need to test it further than that. However I was also running their bypass filter as well. So dont know if that will make a difference or not.
I also use the tranny fluid and diff fluid and have been very happy with them as well.
I also use the tranny fluid and diff fluid and have been very happy with them as well.
04-29-2011, 10:02 AM
#3
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good oil but i wouldnt buy it unless you have a visa or mastercard. $165 for a oil changfe plus it sometimes will create leaks.when i switched to it my front seal and oil pan area was pissing bricks. i use shell rotella 15w40 all year rou8nd now and oil pan heater so im good in winter and oil changes r $40 only now versus $165
04-29-2011, 10:14 AM
#4
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good oil but i wouldnt buy it unless you have a visa or mastercard. $165 for a oil changfe plus it sometimes will create leaks.when i switched to it my front seal and oil pan area was pissing bricks. i use shell rotella 15w40 all year rou8nd now and oil pan heater so im good in winter and oil changes r $40 only now versus $165
I'm down around the horizontal 28° most of the year and the temps are in the near triple digits quite regularly during summer months,,, already been in the 90's for the last month...
Ill planned on using the 15-40W
04-29-2011, 11:25 AM
#5
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Good synthetic oils do not create leaks; however, if you have a bad seal that is currently plugged with crud from poor filtration/oil then a good oil will clean the crud out and expose the leak... The bad seal was there pre-synthetic.
I run Amsoil exclusively in all of my rigs, its great stuff. I have gone over 20K on 2 oil changes, but will no longer go past 15K. The way the emissions work on the 04.5-07 the motor just puts too much soot into the oil and even with a bypass filter is very difficult to remove.
On your 2006 I wouldn't hesitate running the AME 15w-40 with a EaO80 (Donaldson ELF7349) oil filter and changing it every 15K or once a year. A bypass is a great idea as well.
I run Amsoil exclusively in all of my rigs, its great stuff. I have gone over 20K on 2 oil changes, but will no longer go past 15K. The way the emissions work on the 04.5-07 the motor just puts too much soot into the oil and even with a bypass filter is very difficult to remove.
On your 2006 I wouldn't hesitate running the AME 15w-40 with a EaO80 (Donaldson ELF7349) oil filter and changing it every 15K or once a year. A bypass is a great idea as well.
05-01-2011, 09:45 AM
#6
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on a 06 you gain nothing by going synthetic because of the in-cylinder egr used on the 04.5 up. a bypass is a must. do not change the bypass filter untill it no longer flows oil and change the oil and filter every 15k
05-01-2011, 10:11 AM
#7
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That's a pretty bold statement. While you can't run as extended of OCI's on a 04.5-07 5.9 there are still plenty of benefits to synthetic. You get a lower pour point, less friction, better wear, easier starts, better stability at high temps.
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05-02-2011, 02:50 PM
#8
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I want someone to show me a Dino oil that after 10+K, 368 days, using a Fleetguard oil filter will still have a TBN of 9.15. If someone can show me such an oil and I don't want to pay extra for shipping to get it to my house, post that info BUT until such time I'll keep on using Amsoil in my engine.
05-02-2011, 08:00 PM
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There's two big advantages to using a true synthetic: Longevity, and heat management.
A true synthetic like Amsoil can easily last 10K miles; in some vehicles longer. But, as said above, with the newer trucks the soot level gets so high that it limits the oils life. There's still plenty of life left in the additive package, but the soot level is too high. So it's tough to get your money's worht out of it.
Second is heat management. The short time that it runs through the turbo doesn't seem to matter. It's consistantly high heat that kills the oil - just like the trans. Oil is heated by rpm's. Consistantly high rpm's. Like 5,000 + lap after lap. That's what makes the oil hot. Something no street vehicle should be seeing. If you get that kind of heat in a drag car/truck, or even an autocrosser, there's something wrong.
Unless you experiance consistantly high heat or high rpm's, there's no real advantage to using the expensive stuff.
A quality dino oil will last 7,000-8,000 miles, proven by UOA's. That costs you about $50. A true synthetic will last about 10,000-12,000 miles, and cost you about $135.
I would not run any oil longer than 10K miles in a late model diesel without a UOA to see how it's doing.
A lot of people run semi-synth's, thinking they are a true synth - such as Mobile 1, and Quaker State. There's nothing wrong with them. They're good oils, just overpriced for what they are. They won't last as long as a true synth; you need to change or check UOA a little more often.
A true synthetic like Amsoil can easily last 10K miles; in some vehicles longer. But, as said above, with the newer trucks the soot level gets so high that it limits the oils life. There's still plenty of life left in the additive package, but the soot level is too high. So it's tough to get your money's worht out of it.
Second is heat management. The short time that it runs through the turbo doesn't seem to matter. It's consistantly high heat that kills the oil - just like the trans. Oil is heated by rpm's. Consistantly high rpm's. Like 5,000 + lap after lap. That's what makes the oil hot. Something no street vehicle should be seeing. If you get that kind of heat in a drag car/truck, or even an autocrosser, there's something wrong.
Unless you experiance consistantly high heat or high rpm's, there's no real advantage to using the expensive stuff.
A quality dino oil will last 7,000-8,000 miles, proven by UOA's. That costs you about $50. A true synthetic will last about 10,000-12,000 miles, and cost you about $135.
I would not run any oil longer than 10K miles in a late model diesel without a UOA to see how it's doing.
A lot of people run semi-synth's, thinking they are a true synth - such as Mobile 1, and Quaker State. There's nothing wrong with them. They're good oils, just overpriced for what they are. They won't last as long as a true synth; you need to change or check UOA a little more often.
05-03-2011, 08:22 AM
#10
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Thread Starter
There's two big advantages to using a true synthetic: Longevity, and heat management.
A true synthetic like Amsoil can easily last 10K miles; in some vehicles longer. But, as said above, with the newer trucks the soot level gets so high that it limits the oils life. There's still plenty of life left in the additive package, but the soot level is too high. So it's tough to get your money's worht out of it.
Second is heat management. The short time that it runs through the turbo doesn't seem to matter. It's consistantly high heat that kills the oil - just like the trans. Oil is heated by rpm's. Consistantly high rpm's. Like 5,000 + lap after lap. That's what makes the oil hot. Something no street vehicle should be seeing. If you get that kind of heat in a drag car/truck, or even an autocrosser, there's something wrong.
Unless you experiance consistantly high heat or high rpm's, there's no real advantage to using the expensive stuff.
A quality dino oil will last 7,000-8,000 miles, proven by UOA's. That costs you about $50. A true synthetic will last about 10,000-12,000 miles, and cost you about $135.
I would not run any oil longer than 10K miles in a late model diesel without a UOA to see how it's doing.
A lot of people run semi-synth's, thinking they are a true synth - such as Mobile 1, and Quaker State. There's nothing wrong with them. They're good oils, just overpriced for what they are. They won't last as long as a true synth; you need to change or check UOA a little more often.
A true synthetic like Amsoil can easily last 10K miles; in some vehicles longer. But, as said above, with the newer trucks the soot level gets so high that it limits the oils life. There's still plenty of life left in the additive package, but the soot level is too high. So it's tough to get your money's worht out of it.
Second is heat management. The short time that it runs through the turbo doesn't seem to matter. It's consistantly high heat that kills the oil - just like the trans. Oil is heated by rpm's. Consistantly high rpm's. Like 5,000 + lap after lap. That's what makes the oil hot. Something no street vehicle should be seeing. If you get that kind of heat in a drag car/truck, or even an autocrosser, there's something wrong.
Unless you experiance consistantly high heat or high rpm's, there's no real advantage to using the expensive stuff.
A quality dino oil will last 7,000-8,000 miles, proven by UOA's. That costs you about $50. A true synthetic will last about 10,000-12,000 miles, and cost you about $135.
I would not run any oil longer than 10K miles in a late model diesel without a UOA to see how it's doing.
A lot of people run semi-synth's, thinking they are a true synth - such as Mobile 1, and Quaker State. There's nothing wrong with them. They're good oils, just overpriced for what they are. They won't last as long as a true synth; you need to change or check UOA a little more often.
They change it with the filter for $58.00 Plus tax so 63.00 on a 6K interval,,,
I can get the Amsoil with the good filter locally for $120 +tax so say $130.00
How do you check UOA anyway and at what frequency??? what does it cost???
I guess I cant see how I can hurt to try it??? If I go 10-12K miles on a change w/Amsoil its only a few bucks more for full synthetic protection,,, the only engine Mod other than my 5"TB Exhaust is A Smarty Jr. on the low setting so it really doesnt roll a lot of smoke unless I really stand on it, Question #4 does the power adders that make extra smoke add to the soot content in the oil????..
When I'm pulling I run really conservatively, come to think of it I drive like a Grandpa all the time My High RPMS are about 2500
LOLOL!!!
05-03-2011, 01:55 PM
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05-05-2011, 12:12 AM
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cant speak for 3rd gens, but my second gen has 520,000kms on it and in the past 4yrs I put 225,000kms of intown courior work on it, that was 8-10hrs of running every day (tank of fuel every 2days) 10,000-15,000$ ayear in fuel...you get the picture.
I run 15w40 amsoil for 30,000kms and it has 1000hrs of run time on it, I have it sampled and every report comes back good for continued use resample at next maint interval... thats lots of hard miles and according to the reports the oil holds up pretty good. I believe Amsoil says 15w40 is good for 50,000miles or 600hrs or 1yr which ever comes first without oil sampling
I run 15w40 amsoil for 30,000kms and it has 1000hrs of run time on it, I have it sampled and every report comes back good for continued use resample at next maint interval... thats lots of hard miles and according to the reports the oil holds up pretty good. I believe Amsoil says 15w40 is good for 50,000miles or 600hrs or 1yr which ever comes first without oil sampling
05-05-2011, 05:18 AM
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You shouldn't have a problem running the Amsoil 15w-40 & their filter for 15k. I don't see it mentioned much, but the normal OCI on our engine is 15k miles, 7.5k is the severe service interval. For the last 3 years I have run the Amsoil 15w-40 and an Amsoil filter on my 01' Excursion w/ the 7.3. The first two years I did 12k miles, and last year was 16k, and each year it has come back fine. This year so far is on track to be more than 16k, so we'll see how it goes. Also, this year was the first year I used the Fleetguard Venturi combo bypass/full flow filter instead of the Amsoil EaO.