TheWaterman1000

Got my Tork-Tek snubber in. Had to run down to ace and get some 1/4"x2.5' fuel hose and 1/4x1/8MPT fittings. The hose makes a big difference, get the 2.5' length. Had a slight drip at the snubber to the fuel hose.
The story. My truck is a 1994 Ram2500 P7100 IP. Having power problems going up hills. I would get good performance untill I drove aprox., 50miles. Then It would feel like the truck might be starving for fuel?
Done the following:
1. Installed new filter-helped.
2. Installed new OFV- The one with the ball bearing in It.
3. Found a leak and installed new marine grade fuel line-From the tank.
I pulled the line's and installed into a temp tank I modded from a boat gas tank. Had
to install a return. Only problem Is the little screw would shut on It's own and the tank would start to collapes from vacume. Drilled a larger hole and Install a hose straw for better breathing.

Now the testing;
The following is from idle with no load:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=42560&cat=500
The second Is from 2,500 rpm with no load;
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=42561&cat=500
Snubber setup - Slight Leak (drip);
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=42562&cat=500
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=42566&cat=500
Pic's of newer OFV;
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=42563&cat=500
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=42564&cat=500
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=42565&cat=500

Older OFV:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=42567&cat=500
At idle would be 9lb then at 2,500 rpm with no load 10lb;
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=42568&cat=500

I also drove about three miles and noticed the psi would drop to 5-7lb with newer OFV.

The newer seem to allow more pressure than the older OFV. I'm going to try and re-test
at the fuel filter bleed bolt. Need to know size for that, I know a 10mm would unsrew it. If pressure readings the same then eather the gauge took a big dump or the lift pump's going out. The truck starts fine and will rev up ok. Cold run's like a japed ape, But when I'm driving I hear a slight difference in the engine pieak rpm sound, sounds a slite dull or flat, just at the top of the chatter.

I would also like to remove the pre heater filter at the same time if the lift pump need to be replaced. What are the fitting size ( change to hose barb fittings )? On the lift pump and pre heater/filter. Also will try and find what size of stud's, nut's I would need for lift pump. Can you plate off where the pre heater went. I'm eaither moving it or replace with another type of filter.

My next project would be relocating the fuel filter and pulling the steel line out and replacing with marine grade fuel lines.

thanks for all the input.

TheWaterman1000

Where's the pic's ??

VICIOUS FISHER

also check the short curved hose that
connects the fuel heater/pre-filter assembly to the lift pump, as the truck heats up the hose may expand and suck air through a small hole?

TheWaterman1000

Thought about that. That will keep the fuel pressure from going up when you rev to 2500 rpm with no load? I retested today with another couple gauges and the pressue won't clime when I rev up? Is there a way to hookd the meter to the lift pump output?

infidel

Doubt you're sucking air, you have a restriction somewhere.
Check for kinked hoses and service the prefilter.
Also follow steps here> http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1996/14-07-96.htm

TheWaterman1000

infidel-Thanks for the reply. I'm using 6gal boat test tank. This is tapped into the lines at the tank. I didn't pinch off the return line when I did the pressure check again the other day. Some said there might be a solid core inside the line. I'll kink the return line at the temp tank and see what happens. I did notice that the pressure went up with the newer OFV. It's now at 20psi at idle and might go to 21psi at 2,500rpms. Is there a way to test pressure before the fuel filter? The filter is pretty new. Just changed it a few hundred miles back. Pre filter has been service and screen is clean.

Up to me. I would like to eliminate the pre filter and use another "inline" from the tank. I need to find out the fittings size used so I can get some hose barbs and plumb the fuel line's. From tank to lift and new line from lift pump to filter.

TheWaterman1000

Ok.. Forgot to do the return line restriction. Thanks infidel... Could not reach the rubber part of the return behind the fuel filter, so I went back to the temp tank and kinked the return line there. Dam.. It shot up to 62psi at idle and was the same at 2,500rpm. Then shut down, released the pressure, fire back up and did the same thing again. This time the pressure was 40psi at idle and 2,500??? I replaced the OFV with a newer one (big fat ball bearing in the bolt head). I'm going to yank the heater out of the pre filter tomorrow and retest again. And I also noticed the following:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=42569&cat=500
What is it. It next to the block on driver's side under the IP to the right of power steering. Is it the IP oil line? Wonder about the corrosion.

infidel

The pressure variation you're seeing makes me wonder if the gauge is reading right.
Sometimes they'll get stuck and need a tap to break loose.

TheWaterman1000

Dug almost every fuel pressure gauge I have Three.. Two will read 15psi at idle and stay the same at 2500 rpms... One will read 20psi at idle and the same at 2500 rpms. The later was up to 45psi all knight until I gave it a slight rap and the needle dropped. I have a universal fuel pressure regulator with a pressure gauge on it and was thinking of giving that a try. Any one tried that methode. Just trying to save a little time and disapointment. I'm going to pull the pre heater, I'm also going to check the elbow next. I'm really thinking of pumbing in the pressure gauge ontop of the fuel filter to check that before tearing everything apart. The big thing in all this is the pressure looks like it's not going up whe reved to 2500. Acting like a restriction? Change fuel filter a few hundred mile's back. Hate to toss a $35 filter and not solve the problem.

TheWaterman1000

Well tried to unscrew the bowl. Made up a tool to use the fin's. Felt a give, almost yelp yippy... Well not now, the bracket broke on the lift pump side. Did a test run and saw no fuel or oil. So now I've had It.. I'm going to take the whole dang thing off and plumb another filter in line. Now my question Is this.. Since the elbow from the pre H/F Is 1/2 inch. But the intake from the tank is 5/16"?? Hehh.. If I plumb It down to the latter, will I have a problem?

I still have pressure at 19psi at idle and little movement at 2500rpm?? Remembered I had a universal fuel reg with gauge I was going to install on the Mazda. Stole the guage off that and works fine. Still has a slite power issue at time's. She will run great ( did a major burn out, got her up to 3rd gear before going wide open ). Teach those little rice burners here. It's the reason I was trying to remove the pre H/F ***.... I'm almost to the point of changing out the fuel filter again. If it turns out not that, Is there a way to preserve the older (new one that was installed) to use at a later date?

One other thing. I noticed the truck dose not smoke, maybe a slight haze and that's it? Even when I did the burn out. I was think of the AFC, star wheel. But I want to be clear on the fuel pressure before I compound any problem by screwing around with the above.