doomgaze

I've had my truck a little over a week now. I was determined to get the 6 speed because I know all about Dodge automatic transmissions.

Only problem is that before this truck I have had about a grand total of an hour of driving time with a stick.

I'm doing well... I learned on a very tough car, so this seems like a breeze. However, I'm sure there are things about this transmission that I don't know. It makes sense that a truck transmission is going to be different from a car's.

Does anyone have any tips, hints, advice, etc?

FiverBob

Don't touch the accelerator until the clutch starts to engage.

Don't try to shift it too fast - - take your time.

Start off in second unless towing. Sometimes you can skip 3rd if not towing.

Smile - - you will love it.

doomgaze

Thanks! These are the types of things I was looking for.

I've been starting in second, but I wasn't sure if I'd harm anything doing that.

Not touching the accelerator until the clutch starts to engage is not something I knew about, so I appreciate that.

Oh, and no problem with the smiling part

12PACK

Did you see this thread?
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...hlight=redline

HorseHauler

btw dodges autos aint all that bad anymore...

Nevada

Unless you are trying to pull your house of it's foundation, you may never need first gear. This engine/tranny combination is a breeze to drive because unlike most vehicles it is almost impossible to stall. I have accidentally started out in fourth a time or two. This transmission is huge, if you didn't know it was a stick and you looked under the truck, you would swear you were looking at an auto.

Hoss

For what it's worth, I usually start on in 3rd gear. I leave my foot off the pedal and just slowly let out on the clutch. Once the clutch is fully engaged I put my foot into it. The exception to that is taking off on hills or while towing.

nickleinonen

you'll have a hard time stalling this engine so you'll learn quick about driving stick on it. 1 and 2 you can take off real easy with no throttle. if you want to take off in 3rd, a little throttle helps, but with stock tires, it might go ok with no throttle.

in 1st and reverse with the clutch out, i don't think you can stall the engine. i've tried to see how it can bogg down, and you can stand 2 feet on the brake while rolling in 1st and she won't stall .

upshifting at between 1600-2000 seems to work best for me. [although i will putter around in town very light load turing ±1000 in 5 and 6]

and if you want to get on it, don't worry about shifting at like 3500

grizzly660fan

one bit of advice, don't lug the engine to much. both the nv4500 and nv5600 are known to have problems when you lug to much. the vibration when lugging is like hammering on the internal tranny parts.

what is lugging? try 5th or 6th gear at 1,000 rpms on the tach, you will know what lugging is after that.

good luck, I love my 6speed!

doomgaze

I do have one specific question...

One of my friends recently told me that it was bad to hold the clutch in and coast up to a stop sign/light and hold the clutch in, while in gear, while I'm waiting there.

Is this true?

I'm pretty sure I know how a manual transmission works and it doesn't make sense to me that holding the clutch in would be a bad thing. The plates are not touching when the clutch is in, correct?

I can see how it'd be a bad thing to gradually push the clutch in while coasting to a stop because that would cause slipping... but why would it be bad if you push all the way in and coast?

Thanks.

HighTen

I don't think it's a bad thing and I hope it's not because I do it too. Your logic about it not hurting the transmission seems solid to me.

RustyJC

Conventional wisdom is that this is tough on the input shaft pilot bearing, the throwout bearing as well as the engine's crankshaft thrust bearing, but I haven't heard of a rash of failures of any of these with the exception of the pilot bearing. Ya pays yore money and ya takes yore choice!

Rusty

South Bend Clutch

I know some of you disagree with this, but, the fact of the matter is, if you use 1st you will extend the life of the clutch. It does not need any feathering upon engagement and is less torque amplified to the clutch disc. Now, that being said, using 2nd is fine if properly done, even 3rd if you're a pro. LOL Your question about holding a clutch pedal in, 2 things are happening at this time, your throwout bearing is turning and your pilot bearing is turning. The TO bearing being under load is wearing on it. The more it is under load the quicker it will wear. The pilot bearing is the same, the more that you use it the more life you take out of it. I would recommend when coming up to a light to push in your clutch, put it in neutral, let out on the clutch and use your brakes. This will prolong the life of the clutch and the bearings.

Peter

rossn2

You'll find shifting between the gears stiff and some grinding when cold with the factory fill. Drain that crap out (Pennzoil Syncromesh, I believe)and put in a good synthetic like REDLINE MTL.

Jeff K

Peter, how do the pro's use 2nd and 3rd? I am not being sarcastic, just want to learn the "proper" way to do things to extend clutch life.