Troutstrannysvc

Well I'm going to be takin the rigg out of commission for awhile so I can get set-up for pullin season.

Heres my plans so-far.
1) Remove head and get resurfaced, get ports cleaned out, and install o-rings.
2) Install ARP Head-studs, what are the differences between the 12MM and the 14MM studs?
3) I plan on taking my I-pump off and getting it worked over at the local fuel injection shop. To my understanding this is a 160HP pump. What all can be done to this pump to make it perform well?

This is going to me a multi-step process but I am planning on doing this all in the next two weeks, and then another month down the road I will be doing the griddle kit and main studs, and then looking into a turbo.

Any information, the main concerns I've got are about the studs, and about pump work.

Jreif80

while you have you motor appart you should swap your cam and whata re you running for your turbo?

Need95-00CTD

Well the 160 pump is the smallest of the bunch, it can be tuned to over 500hp, but if you plan on pulling with the truck your better off getting a built pump or a 215 and building it, as the 215 will flow a lot more fuel. The studs are pretty obvious, its a 12mm stud vs 14mm, the bigger the stud the stronger it is, unless you plan on running big twins or NO2 or Water/Meth you'll be fine with 12mm studs.

BTW...its a P-Pump...not I-Pump, (unless I stands for inline).

cumminsdriver635

The 12mm studs thread right into your block where your stock bolts are. The 14mm studs you have to drill out your stock head bolt holes, and tap them to 14mm so that the 14mm studs will thread in. They hold a little better, but if you screw up, you are done. 12mm studs will hold a LOT of power. That should be all you need.

As for the pump. The 160 pump can be made to put out a lot of fuel. Im pretty confident that you can make well over 500hp on one without ever taking it off the truck. You will need a good pusher pump or fuel system to get it to turn some rpm's, though. Id say a 5k, 191 delivery valves, big injectors, and a charger, and it would be a pretty good running combo. And the 160 pump is one of the best pumps to have tuned from everything I have heard. The 215 pump will fuel the most stock, but when you start tweaking them they arent as good as the 160's and 180's are.

Eric

Troutstrannysvc

Thanks for the replies so far.

The main difference between the 12MM and 14MM besides the size difference is if there was any modifications you had to do to the block in order to get the 14s in.
I don't plan on running a big twin setup, nor putting N02 or water/meth into it.

AS far as the 160 pump goes what can all be tweaked on the inside?
So far it has 191 DVs, and we did the washer mod so it pulls good to 3K rpms, really woke the old girl up.

When you o-ring the head, is there a special gasket to use?
I got a quote from a reptuable builder/machinest said it'd take anywhere from 2.5-3.5 labor @ $60/hr.
Between $90-120 to clean up the ports
and $60 to resurface the head.

I'm currently pricing a griddle kit and main studs too.
I might do it all at once while it is in the shop..

And as far as turbos go, I was looking into the PS62, or the SPS62.

What timing do you all recommend once I get all this work done and get the head o-ringed and studded?

Need95-00CTD

I've never seen that... The 215's have a more aggressive cam in them, and even at high RPM's will fuel harder then the 160's or 180's. I'm not saying you can't get by with a 160 or 180, but the 215 will put out more power much easier than either of the other pumps.

For turbo's, what kind of HP do you plan on running with the truck, a PS62 or SPS62 is a good turbo, but if you want to really pull with this thing eventually your gonna want more air, and if you want it streetable you'll have to start looking into twins.

You'll use a stock gasket when you get the head O-Ringed, if you get it fire-ringed you'll need to get a special gasket with the fire rings on the gasket cut out. Make sure your machine shop has experience ringing the head, its not something you want to get screwed up. As far a labor rates and times, they look low, which is a good thing if they have done this before, otherwise I'd look into PDR, or one of the other reputable shops with lots of experience.

As far as timing goes, it really depends on what your other factors are, which turbo, which injectors, which gasket, how your pump is tuned...and so on. On my 98 I run 17* when I have on the HX55. I could go more, but its a stock gasket for now. Some of the guys who are pulling are in the 22-28* timing ranges, but its all in how your pump and motor are tuned.

Troutstrannysvc

Anyone have the Part #s for Oil sump pickup tube/filter?
And does anyone have the Part # for the fuel pump float system??
I wanna change the fuel pump float system cause my fuel gauge is all over the place.
As far as the oil sump goes I just wanna change it cause it has 214,XXX mi and it wouldn't hurt to change it.

Also does anyone know the Griddle kit from PDP what do you have to modify on the griddle to get the main studs to clear?