ppiggppenn

I have been going around on this for some time now: First the post wore thru on the plate where the cc cable catches the throttle plate to turn it. I fixed that temporarily with small wire that held the CC cable onto the stub on the post. That worked but limited the plate rotation a bit. I improved that by removing the plate and drilling the post for a steel 1/8" pop rivet and washer that holds the cc cable slide connector to the post with enough play to still slide. Didn't work, but I found that the brake light fuse had fried. AHA! I thought, ... road tested in high hopes of cc , ... wrong! I have good vacuum, brake lights work, connections all sound, HVAC doors all respond to vacuum in system. now what? I have another long trip coming up and don't wanna hafta push that pedal the whole way. Ideas?

Onemoparnut

Does everything else work like the ac the horn the charging system and the speedometer?

ppiggppenn

All three work fine. I don't want to start tearing things apart until I exhaust all the sensible possibilities. Today I double-checked the brake light and horn. The vacuum system is intact, no vac lines collapsing or the like. Next I guess will be start looking at the switches for voltage and response. It just bugs me that it worked before I started messing with the cc cable connector, ...

Santaclaus

Assuming you have solved your mechanical problems with the cruise control the repair manual says; electrical test at servo
1. Turn the ignition switch to on position.
2. Push speed control switch to on position.
3. Connect the negative lead of a voltmeter to a good chassis ground near the servo.
4. Disconnect the four-way connector going to the servo.
The blue wire with the red tracer should read approximately battery voltage. If not, check for loose connections, brake switch adjustment or, repair the main harness as necessary.
5. Connect a jumper wire between the male and female terminals of the blue wire with red tracer. ( note I am reading this from the service manual and not looking at it on my truck was apparently what they want you to do is supply electricity to the servo) the other three male terminals from this road should show battery voltage if not replaces servo.
6. Turn the ignition off. Using an ohm meter, connect one lead to a good body ground. Touch the other lead to the black (BK) or terminal in the four-way connector of the main harness. The media should show continuity. If not repaired or ground circuit.
If this is not find your problem let me know and I can go on down the list.
FYI, fuse number one supplies to cruise control, it is a two amp fuse.Good luck, Mike.

Santaclaus

I had a lot of problems when my cruise control but it was cutting in and out I finally traced it down to bad switch on the steering wheel. Apparently the little circuit board had cracked or something. Again good luck, Mike.

ppiggppenn

Many thanks Santaclaus, ... I'll grab my digital multimeter and have at it today. These steps are all things I haven't tried, ... will report back

ppiggppenn

Passed all tests, ... the ground test showed 0.7ohms so I ran a tiny wire to the (-) terminal and improved to 0.3ohms, ... also to eliminate the ECM messing with the ground. My next move I suppose will be to hot-wire the blue/red tracer wire in case the ECM is getting at THAT. Failing that it'll be replace-the-servo-unit time. Wish I had a known good servo unit to try in case that's not the problem. I don't mind buying new if I'm sure that's what I need. And the saga continues, ...

ppiggppenn

Hey Mike, .... where'd you get that test sequence? Way better than my Haynes manual which has check-the-fuse and check-the-brake-light. In the event that you actually typed it all into text I add manifold thanks, ....

Santaclaus

I am reading the text out of the Dodge manual using NaturallySpeaking, to do the typing. At my typing speed this would take me two months. That also accounts for some of the screw ups in the post.

The next section; electrical test that powertrain control module.
1. Unplug 60 way connector for powertrain control module located on the left fender.
2. Connect negative lead of old mayor to the ground.
3. The following test, the ignition switch must be in the on position. ( when you unplug the control module turn it so you're looking at the business end the top row are numbered 1 through 20, the next row 21 through 40, the next row 41 through 60, best I can tell you without a picture ) refer to figure for control terminal locations. Touched a positive lead of the voltmeter to the terminal in cavity number 33. With the speed control switch in the off position, the voltmeter should read 0 V. With the speed control switch in the on position, the voltmeter should read battery voltage. If not fix it.
4. Touch the positive lead of the voltmeter to the turmoil in the cavity number 53. As in step three, the voltmeter should read 0 V with the switch in the off position and battery voltage with the switch in the on position.
5. Touched a positive lead of the voltmeter to the terminal in the cavity number 48. With the speed control switch in the off position the voltmeter should read 0 V. The switch and on position the voltmeter should read battery voltage. Pressing the set button should cause the voltmeter to change from battery voltage to 0 V for as long as the switch is hailed. If not perform the speed control switch test. If the switch is not at fault, and then check the main harness and repair as necessary.
6. Touch the positive lead of the voltmeter to the terminal in cavity number 50. The voltmeter should read 0 V with the speed control switch in either the off or on position. With switch in either resume or set position, the voltmeter should read battery voltage. If not performed a speed control switch test.
7. Touch the positive lead of the voltmeter to the terminal in cavity number 49. Should read 0 V with the switch off. With the switch on, should read battery voltage. The voltmeter will continue to read battery voltage when either the set or resume switch is pressed. If not perform speed control switch test.
8. Turnkey off. Use in all major, connect lead to good body ground and touch the other lead to the terminal in cavity number 29. With the break pedal released, the meter should show continuity. When the pedal is depressed the meter should show open circuit.
The next section is speed control switch test if this doesn't work for you. Good luck, Mike.

ppiggppenn

Hey thanks, ... some more real good stuff to do. These areas never gave problems before so I'm breaking new ground here so to speak. I weather-proof all these connectors when finished so they won't get squirelly like my VSS connector did with water getting in. The weather seals after a certain point do a good job of keeping water in on the contacts. Anyhow back in a few hours, ...

ppiggppenn

Passed all these tests more-or-less; the "battery voltage" readings were between 11.57 and 11.84V. The "0 V" were from 0 to 0.34V. These may be close enough given my inexpert test methods, maybe not. In Step6 testing cavity50 I got 0.34V with the switch off, but 0V while pressing res, and 0.15V pressing set. With the switch on I got 11.73V pressing res and 0.27V pressing set, whereby the test said I should get "battery voltage" with both when the switch is on. I gobbed the block terminal cavities with dielectric grease and reassembled, ... took a test drive: no harm done, AC and alternator worked, HVAC doors all worked.
I sourced out a FSM CD online but the site had problems with my Canadian address. I'll stay on that and get something here so I won't have to keep bothering people with real FSMs. Haynes is OK for specs, torques and such, but is too superficial for this type of procedure.

Onemoparnut

I had an intermittent problem once that I found was a bad connection where the clock spring plugs into the column harness.

ppiggppenn

There's another place for me to look, ... my somewhat erratic voltage readings suggest some poor connections, and the clock spring connections are right where this could be, ... I'll know more by tomorrow evening, thanks

Onemoparnut

There is also the plug from the cruise buttons under the horn button. Did you look in the sticky for how to test the cruise buttons?

ppiggppenn

Just found the switch pin connector chart thanks, way down on bottom of the Electrical section. Will scribble out that chart and check it out while I'm in there after the clockspring connections. There were enough inconsistencies in the PCM block terminal tests to suspect some circuit resistance. They've worked fine for nearly 20 years so anything's possible in this area. Later