Stock boost pressure on a 95??
#1
Stock boost pressure on a 95??
I just picked up my first diesel truck this week and I'm loving it? It is a 95 2500 single cab 2wd so it's a nice light package (reletively speaking)
What is the stock boost pressures that these trucks run at? I'm looking into installing a boost gauge and bumping up the boost a bit. How boost pressure is safe to run in these trucks? Also what kind of boost gauge should I get. I read that these diesel trucks don't have throttle blades so I'm assuming there is no vaccum?? So would the boost gauge range that I should be looking into be something like 0-45psi?
What is the stock boost pressures that these trucks run at? I'm looking into installing a boost gauge and bumping up the boost a bit. How boost pressure is safe to run in these trucks? Also what kind of boost gauge should I get. I read that these diesel trucks don't have throttle blades so I'm assuming there is no vaccum?? So would the boost gauge range that I should be looking into be something like 0-45psi?
#2
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Stock wastegate setting should be around 18 psi. MAX boost on the stock charger is 34PSI , I went with a 60 psi gauge, as I plan to run a larger charger(s) down the road a little.
You are correct that there is no Vaccum at all on a diesel , as there is no intake restriction (butterflys)
FWIW , upping the boost pressure on a stock truck will accomplish nothing , you need to add more fuel for the air to have an effect. Swapping the fuel plate out for a #10 or 100 would be a very good way to start the bombing process , followed by some injectors and a GSK down the road. A pyrometer gauge is also of the utmost importance when you start adding fuel and air for more performance , exhaust temps need to be monitored to keep from melting anything down.
Welcome to DTR! , Where abouts are you located?
You are correct that there is no Vaccum at all on a diesel , as there is no intake restriction (butterflys)
FWIW , upping the boost pressure on a stock truck will accomplish nothing , you need to add more fuel for the air to have an effect. Swapping the fuel plate out for a #10 or 100 would be a very good way to start the bombing process , followed by some injectors and a GSK down the road. A pyrometer gauge is also of the utmost importance when you start adding fuel and air for more performance , exhaust temps need to be monitored to keep from melting anything down.
Welcome to DTR! , Where abouts are you located?
#3
Thanks for your reply JKM! I'm located in Vancouver BC, Canada.
The guy I bought the truck off of told me that the injectors were upgraded at BD Power but he doesn't know the size. So that could mean that they also upgraded the fuel plate as well. I'll have to stop by there and ask them.
What is a GSK?
Also, I have a Innovate LM-1 wideband o2 unit so I can monitor A/F. Do I need a pyrometer if I have this unit??
The guy I bought the truck off of told me that the injectors were upgraded at BD Power but he doesn't know the size. So that could mean that they also upgraded the fuel plate as well. I'll have to stop by there and ask them.
What is a GSK?
Also, I have a Innovate LM-1 wideband o2 unit so I can monitor A/F. Do I need a pyrometer if I have this unit??
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AF Ratio is not nearly as important to monitor on a diesel as on a Gas engine, you should still be running a pyrometer to monitor EGT, as that's what can do the damage if it gets out of control, you do not want to see anything above 1250 degrees PRE turbo continuously , short bursts above that are OK.
It is hard to tell if they Changed the fuel plate without asking , or even better , pulling the AFC housing off and having a look inside.
GSK = Goveroner Spring Kit , changing to a 3000 or 4000 rpm kit will give you more power over the RPM range , as well as extending the full power RPM from 2300 up to 3000 or 4000 rpm.
Nice to see another Canuck on here , Although you seem to be on the wrong coast I am about 30 mins from the water , in NB.
It is hard to tell if they Changed the fuel plate without asking , or even better , pulling the AFC housing off and having a look inside.
GSK = Goveroner Spring Kit , changing to a 3000 or 4000 rpm kit will give you more power over the RPM range , as well as extending the full power RPM from 2300 up to 3000 or 4000 rpm.
Nice to see another Canuck on here , Although you seem to be on the wrong coast I am about 30 mins from the water , in NB.
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A Vancouver boy eh! I'm up here in Powell River. If you are going to start bombing I would check out PDR, they are located just off 200 st on the North side of the freeway in Langley, They are awsome! Cheers!
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#8
Where is the cheapest/best place to purchase a #10 fuel plate and a 3000rpm GSK online? I'd like to see how PDR's prices compare to the online stuff.
#9
So you're maxing out the turbo? Isn't that hard on it? Is the turbo efficient with the wastegate disconnected like that?
#10
I think you get the idea.
Make sure you have some guages so you know what is going on!
I will probably leave mine alone now. (yea right) The GSK and #10 give me enough power now to easily pull my boat in the summer which is all I really need. As if there is ever enough power. I think before I do anything else the next step would be a torque converter and valve body for the tranny. As it is I can feel a lot of power getting wasted in the old slushbox.
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