Starting my Getrag swap
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Cresson/Stephenville Texas
Posts: 2,436
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Starting my Getrag swap
Gonna start my swap tomorrow hopefully. I believe I have everything I need for it. How much fluid do I need? gonna have a quart overfill or so.
Also, where do I cut the hole for my shifter? Is it stamped? If not, can someone measure side to side for me and where from the dash. Thanks.
Also, where do I cut the hole for my shifter? Is it stamped? If not, can someone measure side to side for me and where from the dash. Thanks.
#3
Registered User
Getrag factory fill is three and a half quarts.
I use five full quarts for 1-1/2 quarts over-fill.
While you are cutting holes, go ahead and make a full transmission-top access hole, so you won't ever need it.
Also, make a dipstick/filler hole through the floor, for the Getrag.
I use five full quarts for 1-1/2 quarts over-fill.
While you are cutting holes, go ahead and make a full transmission-top access hole, so you won't ever need it.
Also, make a dipstick/filler hole through the floor, for the Getrag.
#6
Registered User
Here You Go
Getrag Shifter Hole Diameter = app. 5-1/4" diameter - hole is round
From BACK wall of cab to center of hole = 46-7/8"
From LEFT kick-panel to center of hole = 32-5/8"
All measurements taken at 752' above sea-level, barometric pressure 28.9 inches HG, ambient air temperature of 62*C, winds of 12MPH North-by-NorthWest.
All measurements are from the sheet-metal surfaces, with all plastic, etc. removed.
WARNING: The measurer is not responsible if you follow these directions and end up with a useless hole in the floorboard.
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Cresson/Stephenville Texas
Posts: 2,436
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
LMAO! Those measurements sound precise. Thanks bearkiller. That is greatly helpful. If I cut the floor for the whole plate to be able to come out, how do I cover all of that back up???
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Cresson/Stephenville Texas
Posts: 2,436
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Can I get single gaskets? I have to change out the tailhousing, so I need that gasket. And for the overfill through the shifter, how do I fill it? Do I have to pull the whole top cover?
and for the really stupid question...whats the best weight/kind of fluid to run? Gear oil or what?
and for the really stupid question...whats the best weight/kind of fluid to run? Gear oil or what?
#9
Registered User
FIVE quarts 5w-30 FULL SYNTHETIC is the most popular fluid.
As there are no combustion issues to deal with, store brand is good enough, providing it is genuine FULL synthetic, and not a synthetic blend.
The local Walmart (35 miles away, if you can call that local) messed up and mis-priced 5w-30 Full synthetic Mobil One for some less than two bucks a quart.
I got ten quarts and wish I had of gotten a hundred.
At the time, I didn't know that someday I would own an entire fleet.
#10
Registered User
Once you get it cut out, mig-weld (or sheet-metal-screw, if you're not a welder) a strip of something like 1/8 thick by 1-1/4 wide around the underneath side of the opening you made, leaving enough material overhanging to fasten the cut-out to.
Lay the cut out piece back in place and drill several small mounting holes through it and the metal strip you just welded on.
Lay the cut-out aside and drill/tap all the holes in the steel strip to 1/4x20, or whatever suits you.
Resize the drilled holes in the cut-out to clearance your mounting bolts, 17/64", if you are using 1/4 bolts.
Does this make sense??
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Cresson/Stephenville Texas
Posts: 2,436
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Use your piece, that you cut out, for the cover.
Once you get it cut out, mig-weld (or sheet-metal-screw, if you're not a welder) a strip of something like 1/8 thick by 1-1/4 wide around the underneath side of the opening you made, leaving enough material overhanging to fasten the cut-out to.
Lay the cut out piece back in place and drill several small mounting holes through it and the metal strip you just welded on.
Lay the cut-out aside and drill/tap all the holes in the steel strip to 1/4x20, or whatever suits you.
Resize the drilled holes in the cut-out to clearance your mounting bolts, 17/64", if you are using 1/4 bolts.
Does this make sense??
Once you get it cut out, mig-weld (or sheet-metal-screw, if you're not a welder) a strip of something like 1/8 thick by 1-1/4 wide around the underneath side of the opening you made, leaving enough material overhanging to fasten the cut-out to.
Lay the cut out piece back in place and drill several small mounting holes through it and the metal strip you just welded on.
Lay the cut-out aside and drill/tap all the holes in the steel strip to 1/4x20, or whatever suits you.
Resize the drilled holes in the cut-out to clearance your mounting bolts, 17/64", if you are using 1/4 bolts.
Does this make sense??
I do understand what you mean though. Thanks for all the help. And you did mean synth gear oil right?
#12
Adminstrator-ess
Nope, no gear oil in a Getrag. 5W-30 motor oil, Mobil 1 is quite popular. The light manual trans oils like Redline MTL and Royal Purple Synchromax work well for shifting, but they run hotter when towing than 5W-30. If it's a tow rig stick to motor oil.
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Cresson/Stephenville Texas
Posts: 2,436
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well its not usually a tow rig, but within 2 weeks of installing it Ill be hauling a 24' trailer to CO and back to move my aunt down. So, Ill go with the motor oil. Thanks Dave.
#14
Registered User
There is no gasket there, just anaerobic sealant. Grape jelly as some call it. Plain jane rtv silicone isn't the best for the tailhousing and or top cover. I use grape jelly from a Case/IH dealer.
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Jonesboro, TEXAS
Posts: 1,269
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You could just put in a NV4500 and be done with it forever. Yes the G-rag is an good trans and mine had almost 350K when it went, but it went with no warning I was driving down the road and it locked up and I skidded off the road. I also just did a conversion in DennyT's truck last weekend because it got stuck in 3rd, then would not go into any gear and finally got stuck in reverse. It also broke 2 teeth off of the input. It will go back in a 4B Scout project were maybe it can handle the load. Yes it can and will be fixed but he goes the Colarado and Oklahoma a lot and needs it to be reliable and fixable if it does mess up. With a G-rad you would have to have the parts ordered and most shops can't work on them. Worst case any dodge house or trans shop can have NV4500 going in a day or two. Just my $.02 worth. Hope we can all still be friends. Run the rag if you got it its a lot beter than the auto. P.S. rbrettctd I just ordered the seal kit for my VE so I plan to pull at DeLeon.