rbrettctd

Gonna start my swap tomorrow hopefully. I believe I have everything I need for it. How much fluid do I need? gonna have a quart overfill or so.

Also, where do I cut the hole for my shifter? Is it stamped? If not, can someone measure side to side for me and where from the dash. Thanks.

NoSparkplugs

You'll need roughly 4.5 quarts for the fill.

BearKiller

Getrag factory fill is three and a half quarts.

I use five full quarts for 1-1/2 quarts over-fill.

While you are cutting holes, go ahead and make a full transmission-top access hole, so you won't ever need it.

Also, make a dipstick/filler hole through the floor, for the Getrag.

rbrettctd

Full top access hole, you mean for the access to be able to pull the complete plate that is around the shifter?

12valve@heart

Yep. That way you can get the top cover off if you ever need to. That's what I'm planning to do.

BearKiller

These measurements are straight from the inside of the son's 1990 W-250, with all interior trim removed and seat out, REGULAR CAB.

Getrag Shifter Hole Diameter = app. 5-1/4" diameter - hole is round

From BACK wall of cab to center of hole = 46-7/8"

From LEFT kick-panel to center of hole = 32-5/8"

All measurements taken at 752' above sea-level, barometric pressure 28.9 inches HG, ambient air temperature of 62*C, winds of 12MPH North-by-NorthWest.

All measurements are from the sheet-metal surfaces, with all plastic, etc. removed.

WARNING: The measurer is not responsible if you follow these directions and end up with a useless hole in the floorboard.

rbrettctd

LMAO! Those measurements sound precise. Thanks bearkiller. That is greatly helpful. If I cut the floor for the whole plate to be able to come out, how do I cover all of that back up???

rbrettctd

Can I get single gaskets? I have to change out the tailhousing, so I need that gasket. And for the overfill through the shifter, how do I fill it? Do I have to pull the whole top cover?

and for the really stupid question...whats the best weight/kind of fluid to run? Gear oil or what?

BearKiller

FIVE quarts 5w-30 FULL SYNTHETIC is the most popular fluid.

As there are no combustion issues to deal with, store brand is good enough, providing it is genuine FULL synthetic, and not a synthetic blend.

The local Walmart (35 miles away, if you can call that local) messed up and mis-priced 5w-30 Full synthetic Mobil One for some less than two bucks a quart.

I got ten quarts and wish I had of gotten a hundred.

At the time, I didn't know that someday I would own an entire fleet.

BearKiller

Use your piece, that you cut out, for the cover.

Once you get it cut out, mig-weld (or sheet-metal-screw, if you're not a welder) a strip of something like 1/8 thick by 1-1/4 wide around the underneath side of the opening you made, leaving enough material overhanging to fasten the cut-out to.

Lay the cut out piece back in place and drill several small mounting holes through it and the metal strip you just welded on.

Lay the cut-out aside and drill/tap all the holes in the steel strip to 1/4x20, or whatever suits you.

Resize the drilled holes in the cut-out to clearance your mounting bolts, 17/64", if you are using 1/4 bolts.

Does this make sense??

rbrettctd

Everything except the mounting bolts you mention.

I do understand what you mean though. Thanks for all the help. And you did mean synth gear oil right?

wannadiesel

Nope, no gear oil in a Getrag. 5W-30 motor oil, Mobil 1 is quite popular. The light manual trans oils like Redline MTL and Royal Purple Synchromax work well for shifting, but they run hotter when towing than 5W-30. If it's a tow rig stick to motor oil.

rbrettctd

Well its not usually a tow rig, but within 2 weeks of installing it Ill be hauling a 24' trailer to CO and back to move my aunt down. So, Ill go with the motor oil. Thanks Dave.

bgilbert

Why do you have to change out the tailhousing?

There is no gasket there, just anaerobic sealant. Grape jelly as some call it. Plain jane rtv silicone isn't the best for the tailhousing and or top cover. I use grape jelly from a Case/IH dealer.

1stGen545

You could just put in a NV4500 and be done with it forever. Yes the G-rag is an good trans and mine had almost 350K when it went, but it went with no warning I was driving down the road and it locked up and I skidded off the road. I also just did a conversion in DennyT's truck last weekend because it got stuck in 3rd, then would not go into any gear and finally got stuck in reverse. It also broke 2 teeth off of the input. It will go back in a 4B Scout project were maybe it can handle the load. Yes it can and will be fixed but he goes the Colarado and Oklahoma a lot and needs it to be reliable and fixable if it does mess up. With a G-rad you would have to have the parts ordered and most shops can't work on them. Worst case any dodge house or trans shop can have NV4500 going in a day or two. Just my $.02 worth. Hope we can all still be friends. Run the rag if you got it its a lot beter than the auto. P.S. rbrettctd I just ordered the seal kit for my VE so I plan to pull at DeLeon.