zman

The problem I have is the truck starts fine if the fuel tank is full or is parked with the front slightly downhill. If the fuel level is around 1/2 tank or less or if it is parked with the front of the truck higher than the rear it has to crank excessively before firing. I don't know if it related, but the fuel guage doesn't work. Do I have some kind of fuel pickup issue that is causing it to lose prime to the pump? This truck was recently aquired and I would like to get an affordable repair manual, what is recomended?

berner

Welcome to the site. It sounds like your fuel supply and return hoses are sucking air causing the truck to lose prime. It's a very common problem with 12 valve trucks. Cheap fix but ugly to change them. Do a search on "return line" and you'll find lots of threads. For manuals there's Haynes (not great but cheap), CD manuals (better - look at Ebay) or the best is a factory service manual from Techauthority or Chrysler.

kandgo

It would help if you would fill in your signature option with the info on your truck. The fuel lines above the starter are notoriuos for small holes that allow air in and need to be changed out with a high grade of fuel line. Do a search on the gauge, as there is a repair fix to it, you either have to lift bed or drop tank,seems most raise bed as it is easier. On the manual the best source I have found is at www.techauthority.com they also just lowered the price for the older trucks. The hose kit www.fostertruck.com and while you are replacing them it helps if the starter is taken off and if your hoses are rotted it is probably time to change out the starter contacts while the starter is off, this will save future headaches and some money if starter hangs on, as they do with age because the starter contacts that come on the factory starter are thin. Goodluck, Rick

infidel

The tilt and tank level cause of the symptoms you describe sound like the check valves in the fuel lift pump are shot. Unfortunately they aren't available separately, you have to buy the whole pump.
Bad rubber lines usually cause a problem no matter what the tank level is. If the metal line is cracked on top of the bell housing tank level will make a difference though. Feel up there for leaks.

Check the fuel pressure before throwing parts at it.

DZLPWR

Sounds like the problem i USED to have down to the T. I replaced my rubber fuel lines and the hard starting was 90% gone. I think my problem may have been a combination of the lines and something else. I replaced mine on a lift and it would have only taken 45 mins max. taking my time, but one of the quick disconects had siezed on the metal line and had to be cut off lots of fun.
I just replaced my starter contacts and plunger today and the motor turns over alot stronger now, so that also helped start-up greatly.

kd460

For the fuel tank issue, I have read (I have not done it), you can get away with tilting the bed instead of lifting the whole thing.

I would think the forward section of the bed bolts would be removed, and the rearward bolts just loosened up. Some 2x4's to prop up the lifted end enough to get the clearance you need. Kind of like a dump truck.

Now it's got me thinking, what about removing the drivers side bolts, loosening the passenger side bolts and lifting it that way? (drivers side high, passenger side low). Still use 2x4's to prop up.

Also, while your at the fuel tank and have the clearance now, I believe there are two short sections of rubber hose connecting from the steel fuel line at the frame TO the fuel tank. If you find such an animal, I would change those as well. Good luck, Kevin

infidel

Kevin, tilting the bed to side rather than back is the way I do it along with most dealers. Dropping the tank is a hassle especially if the gauge isn't working and you don't know how much fuel is in it. Tilting the bed also makes it much easier to disconnect the hoses and electrical. If you drop the tank you have to do the disconnecting in the tight space in-between the bed and tank.