Bluedually4x4

So the third starter in the truck has kicked the bucket. I checked the batterys with my volt meter, both have plenty of voltage. So we tried jumping it with dad's 06 megacab, a combined amps of around 3000 and it would maybe turn the motor over for 5-6 revolutions really slowly like all four of the batterys were dead. Now it has nothing, with just the jumper cables hooked up the megacab showed its normal charge so I am pretty sure mine are still good.

Last july all of the battery cables had been changed, in 6 years this will make the forth starter to go in this truck. What the heck am I missing, the last one I put in was brand new, not a reman.

Fueling around

Ring gear on your flywheel?
It appears you covered all the electrical potentials (OK bad pun).

nickg

Pull the starter out and replace/check the starter contacts its a 6$ fix. try using an extra set of jumper cables to add a ground from the battery to the starter,

These starters are pretty tough, and about the only thing that goes wrong is the contacts.

Did all the starters when they failed do the samething??

when you turn the key now is all you get a "click" click"

98whitelightnin

http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=LB-R90SS
Look here.

Dinner

That is what I was wondering, maybe the contacts are going bad so you don't get any crank. Then when you boost the electrical from another truck, there is enough Amperage to ark across the contacts and start the truck...

Bluedually4x4

I will check the contacts, actually trying to jump the truck it turned over a few times really slow than not even a click. They all developed a dead spot in them, wack it with a hammer and it would start, that would work for a while until they just quit.

dozer12216

How about the cable from battery to starter??? And engine to battery ground connections. Like Bluedually4X4 says a dead spot in contacts is most frequent issue with this starter. Some reman starters are nearly junk to start with for frequent failure.

Junk Man

Measure voltage across battery posts, then from 1 post to batt terminal, then other end of cable etc. Repeat for other terminal then other battery. You are looking for voltage drop = < battery voltage = resistance. Next measure voltage at small terminal to solenoid with key to start. It should be = battery voltage. Try jumping current to solenoid terminal (truck in neutral). Mine would crank with jumper & not key. It was contacts. Now pull & bench test starter. While you're there, look at the solenoid contacts. See Genos for details. 10 mm 12 pt combination wrench to loosen starter bolts. Use jack with stick to wrench for leverage if yours is tight. Don't waste time trying other tools to get bolt loose. This works. Have OEM starter rebuilt instead of buying crappy A1-Cardone etc. Have fun.

mishkaya

I see it hasn't been brought up yet so I will do so. You might want to look into getting a starter relay. You can find the info here from Larry B who makes the improved starter contacts.
http://startercontacts.com/relay.htm
mishkaya

slim51015

I dont understand how this will work. All this is doing is complicating the control circuit. The starter solenoid is a relay itself.
My vote is starter contacts or bad cables. Starter contact could be bought off ebay cheap.

mishkaya

To be honest with you, I don't quite get it myself, but I know it has helped quite a few over the years who were having starting problems. I guess it must use less juice than the solenoid???
mishkaya

Bluedually4x4

All of the cables have been replaced. I will yank the starter out and take it to a place to have it checked out.

welder 59

I rebuild them all the time. It's mostly contacts, occasionally brushes, and only once I replaced a bearing. They are great units.

dozer12216

Oh yes. Have batteries tested individually. Disconnect one to test both.

Bluedually4x4

I always isolate the batterys to test them with a meter. They are good.