vtailflyer

Well, I have begun my winter preventative maintenance plan ( I am an aircraft mechanic so I am big on preventative vs failure )on my 98 12 valve I bought this summer. It will consist of starter/Alt Overhaul/inspection and complete fluid change and other misc tasks.

I have started with the starter. Must say very well built. Had one worn out lug on the plunger assembly due to arching. (my Toyota diesel did the same thing) Always seems to be the hot one, no wear on the other but I did replace both. Regreased unit and gears.

The brush block assembly is the best I have seen in a automotive application.

will end up replacing those nasty fuel lines while the starter is out

Dr. Evil

replace your contacts with some heavy duty ones.....check them out:

http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm

infidel

After having the metal lines on top of the bell housing crack on several different trucks I've taken to replacing the entire lines with hose all the way back to near the tank. Sure makes the first and future replacement a lot easier. Takes about six feet of hose on X cab.

vtailflyer

good point, I will have a look see at what I can do. my plan was to cut and flare the tubes (if possible) and connect some AN fitting adapters to flexible fuel line.

Do the metal lines crack close to the filter bowl as well?

kd460

Great advice, I have been thinking about replacing ALL of the rubber lines (I have replaced just the 2 short sections near the block) starting at just before the braided section and going directly to the filter and the pump with straight high quality diesel rated rubber. Just could not figure out a good connection from the metal to the rubber. Good idea about flairing and putting on some fitting adapters.

At the mounting points, someone has mentioned an adapter that is a banjo to barbed for the rubber hose. Not sure of the size needed and where to get. This will also give me the opportunity to move the lines away from the block (away from the heat).

Also concerned about the two little rubber hose sections at the fuel tank. Does the tank (or bed lifted) need to be removed to get at these??

Great ideas, thanks, Kevin

infidel

Lots of questions.
I've seen the steel tubing crack on top of the bell housing and in the short length of return from the over flow valve to the area near the filter where the hose starts. It always cracks where the hold down tabs are welded on. On one that cracked in the short section of return I used a sawzall to cut the line by the OF valve, then removed it and cut it better with a tubing cutter about an inch from the OF valve. To remove this section of line for replacement is a real hassle, lots of things in the way so I just left it there abandoned. I then aimed the cut line towards the front and hose clamped a new rubber line and ran it towards the tank. The entire new heavy duty hose was covered by plastic electrical loom to protect it. I really didn't like doing this but had no choice, the truck's owner wanted to get rolling fast. The problem is the hose must make an immediate u-turn from the OFV to avoid the fan, other routes are almost impossible.

If the short section of return line is intact running new return and supply lines back from the steel lines where the known to fail rubber lines start is almost too easy compared with the battle to replace the short stock ones. I just follow the frame back towards the tank to a spot where the steel lines make two immediate 90° turns. After unbolting one tie down there is a ton of space for a tubing cutter to fit. Note: the steel lines are very hard an wear out a tubing cutter wheel fast

The steel lines near the tank are a hair smaller than the lines up front. I thought this might be a leak problem but so far it hasn't. I used two hose clamps just in case though. Remember to leave a little slack in the hoses for engine movement.

I've never experienced a leak on the lines on top of the tank so have never done anything with them but recall that there is enough space to work as long as the module doesn't have to come out. Not sure how the quick connect fittings on the tank module would take to hose clamping or if they are threaded in so another fitting could be used, but like said never a problem in this area.

Here's the source I use for banjo bolts since I sell tapped ones for FP gauges, they also have banjo hose barbs, you want the size made for M 16x1.5 banjo bolts
http://www.hydraulic-supply.com/pdf/538.pdf

This company is fast and has good prices but is stuck in the past, they want to do a lot of business by fax rather than the net and you have to set up an account even if you pay by CC. If anyone finds another source for banjo fittings other than the overpriced dealer I'd like to know.