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Stainless Braided Brake Lines

Old 12-26-2006, 09:22 PM
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Question Stainless Braided Brake Lines

Hey folks, Happy Holidays!

Among other things, I'm looking into doing a brake job in the near future and plan on upgrading the flexible, rubber sections of the brake plumbing to the stainless wire braided type. It's suppose to help firm the pedal some (plus my mess is getting a bit old'n crusty).

I've found this kit in Summit ~ http://store.summitracing.com/partde...+0&appfilter=1

It includes the Center rear, Driver side front, and Passenger side front sections but NOT the Front center.

Anybody know where one might be found in the stainless wire braid? My heap's not lifted so stock length is OK.

Thanks,
David
Old 12-26-2006, 10:22 PM
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skyjacker has the front and rears they are longer but not excessive! There might be a picture of teh rear in my album.
Old 12-26-2006, 10:29 PM
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David,

I don't have a source for you but.... my cousin is in the military and is very much into his Camaros. One of his buddies on base made him a complete set of braided lines for his '69 Camaro. The guy works on their fighter jets so he has access to all the stuff. I'm thinking any large company that manufacters the lines for retail could custom make you a length of choice if you contacted them. I would try checking out some race shops for some leads. Also, hydraulic hose companies make their own high pressure lines for various applications. If they could get the proper fittings, perhaps they could also make a custom length for you. Hope this helps you some.

Aloha,
Old 12-27-2006, 06:48 PM
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I would use the skyjacker piece, it`s only 2 in or so longer than the stocker IIRC.
Old 12-27-2006, 08:24 PM
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You can have Earl's make you a DOT approved set. Russell and Goodridge also make DOT approved lines if that's important to you.
Old 12-30-2006, 07:39 PM
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DOH!

It turns out the Earls kit actually has all the required hoses. The Summit description fails to include the front-center hose in the parts break-down.

Thanks for the input folks.


Can anyone think of a reason I can't take this opportunity to change from the regular DOT brake fluid to the synthetic type? Any kind of incompatibilities to watch for?
Old 12-30-2006, 09:00 PM
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so would these braided lines be good with a 4 inch lift?
Old 12-30-2006, 09:52 PM
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No, this kit is an OEM replacement length. Skyjacker brand has extended hose kits for lifted trucks (from what I've seen in Summit anyway).
Old 12-30-2006, 11:41 PM
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I am far from knowledgable on brake fluids; but, I haven't heard anything but BAD said about synthetic brake fluids in truck type brake systems.

Over at The Drama(Diesel) Stop, I asked a brake fluid question that ended up having over a dozen pages, and no one recommended synthetic brake fluid in a truck.

This may have all been mis-information and synthetic may be the best thing you can do for the brakes; but, I would see what the experts here have to say, before dumping it in.
Old 12-31-2006, 02:06 AM
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All brake fluid is "synthetic" in the sense that it is glycol, not made from mineral oil. At any rate, if you are talking about silicone fluid then I would recommend against that in your application. Any good DOT3 or 4 fluid will work fine. The most important thing to look for is wet boiling point, get the highest you can find. Also, I think it's a good idea to change the fluid about once a year-18 months depending on your climate. Changing the fluid is far more important than the fancy label.
Old 12-31-2006, 08:35 AM
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Brake fluid operates in a closed system. Changing it more often than necessary (In the course of repairs while bleeding, etc.) is a waste of time and money. I've seen 10, 15, 20 year old vehicles with the factory fluid in them working just fine.
Old 12-31-2006, 08:52 AM
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i sence much discussion to follow on this point! i've heard you are supposed to change the brake fluid but just thought is was the quick oil change places trying to make another $100 to $150. who's got well informed info on the subject? and why would "synethetic" make a difference in brakes? what does the fluid lubricate?
Old 12-31-2006, 11:33 AM
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I've always worked with the understanding that the typical brake fluid is hygroscopic (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hygroscopy) and as such can contribute to brake system corrosion if left un-addressed. With that, each time the hydraulic circuit is opened or after say five years time, I flush the entire circuit and make sure all the seals are in good shape including the rubber bellows thing in the lid of the master cylinders reservoir.

Originally Posted by Wikipedia
Brake fluid
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Brake fluid is a type of hydraulic fluid used in brake applications in motorcycles, automobiles, light trucks and some advanced bicycles. It is used to transfer force under pressure from where it is created through hydraulic lines to the braking mechanism near the wheels. It works because liquids are not appreciably compressible. Braking applications produce a lot of heat so brake fluid must have a high boiling point to remain effective and must also not freeze under normal temperatures. These requirements eliminate most water-based solutions.

In the USA brake fluid comes in a number of forms, standardized under by the United States Department of Transportation (DOT). DOT 2 is essentially castor oil; DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5.1 are composed of various mineral oils, glycol esters and ethers; and DOT 5 is silicone-based. As of 2006, most cars produced in the U.S. use DOT 3.

Glycol based fluids are two times less compressible than silicone type fluids, even when heated. Less compressibility of brake fluid will increase pedal feel (firmness), but in either case this effect is minimal. The U.S. Army has used silicone brake fluid exclusively since 1982 successfully. Glycols are hygroscopic and will absorb water from the atmosphere, reducing the boiling point of the fluid and degrading hydraulic efficiency. Changing fluid on a regular basis will greatly increase the performance of the brake system, but this is often not a concern in passenger cars. On the other hand, changing fluid at least every several years will preserve the life of brake system components (by removing accumulated water and other contaminants) and increase the overall reliability of the brake system.

Polyethylene glycol and other brake fluid ingredients may be corrosive to paint and finished surfaces such as chrome and thus care should be taken when working with the fluid. Additionally, polyethylene glycol, in the concentrations found in DOT brake fluids, reacts violently, producing a large fireball, with some household chemicals, notably pool care products.
As found here ~ http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid



Ummm, . . . . . that last paragraph suggests some interesting play . . ..
Old 12-31-2006, 11:57 AM
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I have heard that the Silicon brake fluids don`t absorb water but they have a habit of getting minute air bubbles trapped in suspension making it a very tricky fluid to bleed. You have to be extra carefull to not foam/froth the fluid (verry smooth pedal strokes). Also, because it doesn`t absorb moisture, any moisture that gets into the system will "settle out" cuasing more corrosion problems than regular DOT3 or 4. IMO use a DOT 3or4 and flush it out every year or so.
Old 12-31-2006, 10:22 PM
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The biggest problem with the DOT 3& 4 is the water but there is a litmus paper test that can tell you if it is time to flush it out or not. The silicone fluids sometimes do not get along real well in ABS applications due to the frothing mentioned earlier. IMO stick with DOT 3 or 4.

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