Spicer U-Joints All the way around... Axle, Front, and Rear Shaft
03-10-2011, 12:33 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Spicer U-Joints All the way around... Axle, Front, and Rear Shaft
Well, thanks to a couple links here and a local driveline shop, I replaced all my U Joints in the truck with SPICER LIFE SERIES JOINTS.
So, heres the deal with my truck to help clear up any confusions.
The Front AXLE U-Joints are: SPICER 5006813
The rear shaft takes a 1410 series at each end: SPICER 5-801X
The front shaft takes a 1330 series at the pinion: SPICER 5-795X
The two at the CV are a 1350 series: SPICER 5-799X
*Note: the book called for AAM 1355 series mfg by Neapco in the CV. Got them special ordered in, thinking they were mfg in USA. WRONG. Made in China. So we checked them against the Spicer, and they were an exact match on the cross width (3.625") and get this, the Spicer life series were $10 cheaper per joint!
A tip when the CV is apart, the small bearing in the swivel has small needles just like the caps... I used a small piece of 1/2" stock to keep them from falling out during the extrication and installation of the other U-joints. You can see the needle port for the grease fitting in the 3rd pic, and the 1/2" stock in the bearings 4th pic.
I had a bit of a tough time with the front shaft pinion yoke. The Torx head bolts are crap. They are a T40 size. I have since replaced them with a M8x1.25x35mm Socket Head Cap Screws that has a 12.9 class rating (higher than grade 8) and grade 8 flat and lock washers. They fit perfect, and with a standard 6mm allen wrench, got them plenty tight. See 2nd pic. Plan to fill the cap with a silicone sealant to prevent rust and dirt, that way I can just dig that out when it comes time to service it again...
Hope this clears up some of the part numbers and what you need for a good bolt going back in to the front pinion flange.
So, heres the deal with my truck to help clear up any confusions.
The Front AXLE U-Joints are: SPICER 5006813
The rear shaft takes a 1410 series at each end: SPICER 5-801X
The front shaft takes a 1330 series at the pinion: SPICER 5-795X
The two at the CV are a 1350 series: SPICER 5-799X
*Note: the book called for AAM 1355 series mfg by Neapco in the CV. Got them special ordered in, thinking they were mfg in USA. WRONG. Made in China. So we checked them against the Spicer, and they were an exact match on the cross width (3.625") and get this, the Spicer life series were $10 cheaper per joint!
A tip when the CV is apart, the small bearing in the swivel has small needles just like the caps... I used a small piece of 1/2" stock to keep them from falling out during the extrication and installation of the other U-joints. You can see the needle port for the grease fitting in the 3rd pic, and the 1/2" stock in the bearings 4th pic.
I had a bit of a tough time with the front shaft pinion yoke. The Torx head bolts are crap. They are a T40 size. I have since replaced them with a M8x1.25x35mm Socket Head Cap Screws that has a 12.9 class rating (higher than grade 8) and grade 8 flat and lock washers. They fit perfect, and with a standard 6mm allen wrench, got them plenty tight. See 2nd pic. Plan to fill the cap with a silicone sealant to prevent rust and dirt, that way I can just dig that out when it comes time to service it again...
Hope this clears up some of the part numbers and what you need for a good bolt going back in to the front pinion flange.
03-10-2011, 06:40 PM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Marshall, Texas
Posts: 530
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great write up and pics... I have been preaching the use of Spicer joints as repalcements for the failure prone stock replacements.
Did ANY of the Spicers come with grease zerks???? And/OR were the cross pieces drilled for grease?
Did ANY of the Spicers come with grease zerks???? And/OR were the cross pieces drilled for grease?
03-10-2011, 06:58 PM
#4
Administrator ........ DTR's puttin fires out and workin on big trucks admin
Hmm, I pulled spicer u-joints out of my 06 and replaced them with greaseable ones from Napa, I believe they were Precision brand u-joints.
03-11-2011, 07:43 AM
#5
Registered User
FYI, my Precision joints lasted less than a year... totally trashed actually and it threw me for a loop because I was looking at everything else that could cause my vibration issue and didn't think it could be my driveshaft because the joints were so new... Went to Indiana Driveline. Guy who owns it worked for Chicago driveline for 19 years before opening this place. He has tons of experience working with our trucks. Said stay away from Precision. Stick with Neapco or Spicer (which he says are made at the same assembly plant).
Trending Topics
03-11-2011, 09:23 AM
#8
Administrator ........ DTR's puttin fires out and workin on big trucks admin
FYI, my Precision joints lasted less than a year... totally trashed actually and it threw me for a loop because I was looking at everything else that could cause my vibration issue and didn't think it could be my driveshaft because the joints were so new... Went to Indiana Driveline. Guy who owns it worked for Chicago driveline for 19 years before opening this place. He has tons of experience working with our trucks. Said stay away from Precision. Stick with Neapco or Spicer (which he says are made at the same assembly plant).
I agree, Spicer makes good stuff, just not greaseable. I have both good and bad luck with Precision u joints, this time they went in perfect and so far no issues.
03-11-2011, 10:21 AM
#9
"How in the heck do I change the phrase in between my user name and avatar?"
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Waco, Texas
Posts: 1,742
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've used Precisions all the way around for the last 5-6 yrs with no issues. Tried to go Spicer last year but the cross section of the joint was a hair too big to fit in the yoke. Took them back and went with Precisions again.
03-12-2011, 08:33 PM
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
None of the Spicers have a grease fitting. Thats what I want. I dont want to have to deal with greasing them. Plus, I want the most strength I can get. The original front shaft and axle Ujoints made it 170k without grease.. and Im just fine with that.
The rear had been replaced at 120k with Precision from Napa, and at 170k needed replacing again. So, Spicer life joints were on the docket. I will get some pics from the 1410s out of the rear... I had actually torqued the needles into the trunnion so hard, they left imprints... not impressed with the Precision Joint b/c of that...
Here are some more pics... first the press I use to remove the joints and a trick I do when Im working alone, I hang the one end from the ceiling.
2nd pic is a close up up the replacment bolts I used.
3rd a pic of 1330 series u-joints for the front pinion... the stocker (left) and replacement, Spicer Life (right). Note the size difference!
The rear had been replaced at 120k with Precision from Napa, and at 170k needed replacing again. So, Spicer life joints were on the docket. I will get some pics from the 1410s out of the rear... I had actually torqued the needles into the trunnion so hard, they left imprints... not impressed with the Precision Joint b/c of that...
Here are some more pics... first the press I use to remove the joints and a trick I do when Im working alone, I hang the one end from the ceiling.
2nd pic is a close up up the replacment bolts I used.
3rd a pic of 1330 series u-joints for the front pinion... the stocker (left) and replacement, Spicer Life (right). Note the size difference!
03-12-2011, 09:45 PM
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Corpus Christi, Texas
Posts: 625
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Had NEAPCO put in mine. My understanding of the SPICER is that they do NOT fit without grinding. 157k on originals, 16k since.
. . While it is usually possible to force a Spicer series joint in a AAM series yoke (after all, it is only a .010" difference),
the snap rings will be bowed out in the center and the joint will be "tight".
The tight fit increases heat generation and end galling, either of which will lead to premature failures . . . .
. . If a Spicer series universal joint is installed in an AAM yoke, the tighter lockup dimension will often cause the joint to fail prematurely.
So, to prevent premature universal joint failures we recommend you install a AAM specific joint instead of a Spicer sized u-joint.
from the Dan The Gear Man site
.
the snap rings will be bowed out in the center and the joint will be "tight".
The tight fit increases heat generation and end galling, either of which will lead to premature failures . . . .
. . If a Spicer series universal joint is installed in an AAM yoke, the tighter lockup dimension will often cause the joint to fail prematurely.
So, to prevent premature universal joint failures we recommend you install a AAM specific joint instead of a Spicer sized u-joint.
from the Dan The Gear Man site
.
03-12-2011, 10:10 PM
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Had NEAPCO put in mine. My understanding of the SPICER is that they do NOT fit without grinding. 157k on originals, 16k since.
. . While it is usually possible to force a Spicer series joint in a AAM series yoke (after all, it is only a .010" difference),
the snap rings will be bowed out in the center and the joint will be "tight".
The tight fit increases heat generation and end galling, either of which will lead to premature failures . . . .
. . If a Spicer series universal joint is installed in an AAM yoke, the tighter lockup dimension will often cause the joint to fail prematurely.
So, to prevent premature universal joint failures we recommend you install a AAM specific joint instead of a Spicer sized u-joint.
from the Dan The Gear Man site
.
the snap rings will be bowed out in the center and the joint will be "tight".
The tight fit increases heat generation and end galling, either of which will lead to premature failures . . . .
. . If a Spicer series universal joint is installed in an AAM yoke, the tighter lockup dimension will often cause the joint to fail prematurely.
So, to prevent premature universal joint failures we recommend you install a AAM specific joint instead of a Spicer sized u-joint.
from the Dan The Gear Man site
.
01-13-2014, 11:21 PM
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I messed up and bought two 1350 SPICER 5-799X for the front drive shaft on my 2007.5 Dodge 2500.
I Installed or attempted to install them but realized they were wrong after I could only get one keeper on each side. It appears that I may need the 1355 u joints for the AAM shaft?
I Installed or attempted to install them but realized they were wrong after I could only get one keeper on each side. It appears that I may need the 1355 u joints for the AAM shaft?
09-28-2014, 10:29 PM
#15
Registered User
The 5-801x should fit but for the retainers to go in smoothly you need to shave about 2 thousandths off each end cap. I used them in mine trouble free now for a few years but one side(retainer clip) will bow out if you don't shave the cap down. Th Aam joints fit perfectly and the spicers are slightly too big it's all been explained before. I used the 5-801x with zero problems soo far.