slow cranking
#1
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slow cranking
can anybody here help me with this? I have a slow cranking problem when the truck has been sitting for atleast six hours or more and only when the temp is below 60 I thaught it was the batteries but they tested good under a load. I even put 2 new ones in & still the same. I had the starter tested & all of the connections are clean. the the grid heater are working fine after it starts its fine all day I mainly have this problem this problem when I first start it in the morning & after a fun day at work. I recently changed my grid heater relay & I might of got the four little wires mixed up.
I'd appreciate any help this is driving me insane!
thanks Matt
I'd appreciate any help this is driving me insane!
thanks Matt
#2
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Welcome to DTR!!
when you crank the engine on the truck, what does the volt meter read? Maybe ur pcm has gone bad... Please put ur trucks info on ur sig, so we can better assist you....
Tx
when you crank the engine on the truck, what does the volt meter read? Maybe ur pcm has gone bad... Please put ur trucks info on ur sig, so we can better assist you....
Tx
#3
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I had a similiar problem, do a search on starter contacts. Even if the "starter tested out OK" how was it tested? The contacts inside the starter get pitted and oxidized. This really increases the resistence. It's a simple fix to get the new contacts and plunger.
Also change the relay in the fuse distribution center under the hood. Just switch it with another relay of the same rating. For some reason, a flakey relay can give you funny symptoms like that (one of my problems ith the starting circuit), but I am still guessing it's the contacts.
Also check your grounds at the block, and all other connections, especially the positive wire that connects to the starter. Remove them, clean them, grease them, and reinstall-all of them.
Lastly, it could be a loose wire on one of the brushes in the starter (my problem). Could be positional and that is why it tested out OK. Drop the starter, take it apart, replace the contacts and plunger, clean the armature and field (it will be gunky), clean the gears and bearings then relube with a good synthetic grease, check the brushes (have new brushes on hand, this will garantee that you won't need them), reassemble, then reinstall.
Heres a few links:
http://www.dodgedieseldatabase.com/starter.htm
http://www.fixinrams.com/id11.html
Also change the relay in the fuse distribution center under the hood. Just switch it with another relay of the same rating. For some reason, a flakey relay can give you funny symptoms like that (one of my problems ith the starting circuit), but I am still guessing it's the contacts.
Also check your grounds at the block, and all other connections, especially the positive wire that connects to the starter. Remove them, clean them, grease them, and reinstall-all of them.
Lastly, it could be a loose wire on one of the brushes in the starter (my problem). Could be positional and that is why it tested out OK. Drop the starter, take it apart, replace the contacts and plunger, clean the armature and field (it will be gunky), clean the gears and bearings then relube with a good synthetic grease, check the brushes (have new brushes on hand, this will garantee that you won't need them), reassemble, then reinstall.
Heres a few links:
http://www.dodgedieseldatabase.com/starter.htm
http://www.fixinrams.com/id11.html
#4
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I too think its the points in the starter. Here's the link for Larry B's
http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm
My son has a 96 Cummins with 260k on it. It did the same thing. I tried to get him to buy the contactors but he choose to reverse the two. That was a year ago and its still doing fine.
Dave
http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm
My son has a 96 Cummins with 260k on it. It did the same thing. I tried to get him to buy the contactors but he choose to reverse the two. That was a year ago and its still doing fine.
Dave
#6
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Originally Posted by Eskimo
Wait for the "wait to start light to go out"
Honestly, mine turns over maybe 1/2-1 turn before it fires.. 12 valve thing..
Honestly, mine turns over maybe 1/2-1 turn before it fires.. 12 valve thing..
Randy
#7
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I just had my pcm checked at the dealer & it was fine. the volts are reading right around 14.
if the slow cranking is caused from the starter then why would it be worse when the truck has been sitting & it's cold out?
if the slow cranking is caused from the starter then why would it be worse when the truck has been sitting & it's cold out?
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#9
Originally Posted by 426matt
I just had my pcm checked at the dealer & it was fine. the volts are reading right around 14.
if the slow cranking is caused from the starter then why would it be worse when the truck has been sitting & it's cold out?
if the slow cranking is caused from the starter then why would it be worse when the truck has been sitting & it's cold out?
#10
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alright guys, two new batteries & a new starter & still the same problem.
I even had the dealer pull the codes & nothing. the odd thing is if I leave it plugged in over night it starts up fine. but after work where I can't plug it in it doesn't even want to start.
any suggestions?
I even had the dealer pull the codes & nothing. the odd thing is if I leave it plugged in over night it starts up fine. but after work where I can't plug it in it doesn't even want to start.
any suggestions?
#11
You can check the cables going to the starter from the battery. The cable to the starter on my '95 was really corroded near the connection to the started. You could see the insulation "bubbling". I cut off about 3" of the cable and reattached a new connector.
Seemed to help craking quite a bit.
Seemed to help craking quite a bit.
#13
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98 12v ctd quadcab 2500 auto. afe intake,autometer gauges, d25's, 275 injectors, 410 gears.285 bfg's, 2001 sport frontend.
I'm confused. Do you have a 12 or 24 valve? 275 (RV) injectors usually mean 24 v.Verify the grid heater relays are dropping when you crank the engine?
Advanced the timing? That helped my winter starts. Do you have lots of white exhaust when it fires?
#14
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I have a 12 valve,the only time a have a white smoke is when it is cold & I don't have it plugged in. then it's really slow cranking & it doesn't usualy fire up right away as it does usually but it clears out pretty quick.
how do you verify if the grid heater realay are dropping when I crank the engine?
how do you verify if the grid heater realay are dropping when I crank the engine?
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