dodge_24

is anybody running a single disk convertor how does it run is it alot diff than the stock

thinking of upgrading

thanks

kevellis32

With a stock turbo, and tons of fuel I was able to slip a single disc TCI billet while towing no more than 8k. It may have just been a bad converter but for the money you are already going to be spending you should really look into a triple. Man does it feel good when it kicks you back when it shifts into OD.

dieselman2300

If you get a quality single disc made from a GOOD trans. shop that knows diesel, it will hold 700hp without slipping.
If you dont have at the very least a billet input shaft, a triple will eventually break a stock input.
Single discs are more forgiving on a trans.

AlpineRAM

In my opinion it's like that:
The transmission begins with the TC and ends with the output shaft. And all parts need to match.
I've been running a single disc TC for more than 200k miles. Without slipping or any other problems. (The only "problems" were rodent damage to the wiring loom and a broken tranny cooler- not related to the type of TC)
Talk to the good builders and get a complete system.

Just my 2c

AlpineRAM

Fishin2Deep4U

My DTT single has held great. I know guys over 900HP on the same converter.

Dave

cumminsdriver635

A single disc needs a good valve body, and a transmission with good seals to keep pressure way up to hold good, especially at lower RPM.

A triple disc will work better in an older/stock transmission with less line pressure because it takes less line pressure to make the triple disc TC hold the same HP that a single holds with more line pressure.

A triple disc will especially hold better at lower RPM and light to medium throttle because line pressure is a lot lower at half throttle and under than it is at WOT.

There is nothing wrong with a single, but I feel a triple disc will hold better with all other things being equal.

Eric

dieselman2300

I was refering to the 47rh. Not the re.

On the rh, the stock output is alot stronger than the re output.

I will agree with AlpinRam, that you need the whole package, except for maybe a billet intermediate. I have talked with Goerend, HTS,DTT and Ultimate. Ultimate was the only one who recommended a billet intermediate.

If your on a budget, get the important part. Flexplate (doesnt have to be billet, laminated ones have been holding their own), converter (single or triple), valvebody, Billet input and a few other small billet parts. If you dont get a bille input and the stocker breaks, its very likely it will do some serious damage. The output on the other hand can be changed easily and if it breaks doent do any damage.

AlpineRAM

There are 2 reasons why I think doing the complete package is important.

First, each TC has a different fluid coupling characteristic and needs to be matched to the engine and the shift points. If this isn't done right you will have a tranny that has the shift points set wrong. So, getting something that is a good combo for your truck is a bit of research- and you won't enjoy pulling the pan very often, changing part after part trying to figure out how to tune it.
Second- your tranny has seen a lot of use and abuse and would realy profit from getting rebuilt- so why not use a package that offers more frictions in the front clutch, a better servo and lever for the 2nd gear band etc- the list goes on, and with higher pressures to make the clutches last and hold the torque you will need better seals.
I think Chrysler wasn't dumb tuning the tranny as they did- the TC lockup clutch as a kind of fuse that burns before parts that are more costly to replace go snap.
Just replacing it with a stronger fuse may not be the solution to the problem.

As for how many discs- I think as long as it holds the torque I throw at it I don't care how many discs. I don't have a dog in the race, and I have only tested one supplier thoroughly, and another (with bad results) once.

Just my 2c

AlpineRAM

j-fox

If the line pressures are left at or near stock the other clutches in the trans will slip and burn up. Don't risk that.

cumminsdriver635

It is true that it will make life much harder on your clutches if the line pressures are left stock and you throw a good converter in it.

I should have mentioned that. Anything from a $100 transgo shift kit to a full VB will take care of that problem though.

Eric

DodgenIt

I agree with most of all this. My DTT single has been killer. The guy that built my trans told me I could beat the hel out of it till 650-700 hp. then if I want more, go to a triple. Everything is built up around it of coarse though. Only parts not built up or billet is intermediate and output shafts. They are however both 48re shafts instead of 47 like my truck had in the stock trans.

I left those two non billet cause, well, I didnt have the money.. But, was reassured that the 48 intermediate was nearly as strong as billet, and like dieselman said, the out put would be a much easier fix and not damage anything else if it broke.

All in all, I've never had a prob with my single.
Hope this helps.

cumminsdriver635

For what its worth, I have been running an aftermarket converter in my stock transmission for a long time now. Somewhere around 70k miles.

I have had several different setups:

Stock converter/transgo shift kit
Goerend Single/Transgo Shift kit
Goerend Triple/Transgo shift kit
Goerend triple/Transgo/Billet Input/Suncoast Flexplate
Goerend Triple/Goerend VB/Billet input/Suncoast Flexplate

My goerend Triple and transgo was a great setup for the $$. I only paid $60 or so for the transgo and lockup was awesome with that setup. It locked fast and HARD.

Then when i swapped to the Goerend VB, the converter still held as good, it just locked up smoother, which im sure is easier on parts.

Anyways, I have pulled my truck probably 10 times or so, haul with it in the summer, and it is my daily driver. It has also made over 50 passes down the drag strip. My point is that the stock clutches will hold a good amount of power and take a lot of abuse. I have probably over 100k miles on this stock transmission/clutches and it still works great.

A full built transmission is obviously going to last longer than anything, but a stock transmission in decent shape will last a long time with a good converter/VB and the hard parts you need to hold the power.

Eric

scottsjeeprolet

I'm running the TCI TC and a BD valve body and it works great. I also have a lock up controller. I have yet to slip it even on Pl10 on the Adrenaline.

dodge_24

thanks guys

the single is more in my price range i'm thinking of doing the valve body first and save some money then get the convertor
has anybody ran a built valvebody with the stock convertor
would like for it to handle the edge comp hot
maybe 350-375

thanks guys for the info