race8082

Pulled home last night and myrunning lights went out on my trailer. I checked for voltage at the pin and had 0. I cycledd the key in the truck and voltage was back. Ran about another 10 min. with lighs, and out they went. Cycled key voltage back. Truck is 2010 3500 drw. Trailer has about 20 running lights. Is there a relay of some sort that is heating up and opening the circuit? Or possibly to many lights on it.

Thanks for any help!!

2006Mega

to many lights for dodges crappy stock wiring, the TIMP module is freaking out and killing the lights.
here is one thing you could get to eliminate the problem, http://www.valleyindustries.com/Imag...Electrical.pdf scroll down to page 19 under powered tail light converters.
Instead of a fuse blowing dodge uses what is called a TIMP module, basically a computer controlled relay panel. if it sense to much current draw it will kill that circuit. i know the TIMP controls the head lights, tail lights, and trailer lights, but don't know what else it does.

.boB

Convert all your lights to LED. More expensive to begin with, but probably easier. And they last longer than standard bulbs.

2006Mega

the only issue with that is if you trip your TIMP module out to much, it needs to be reset, and you only have i think 3 times to have your TIMP reset, then you need to get a new one, at i believe 700$ for just the module.

Colo_River_Ram

X2 on the too many bubs..Like posted covert to LED or you could install a modulite into the unit, Hot shotters who pull multiple trailers run these as if you trip the TIPM to many times you have to replace it..

Modulite:

http://www.etrailer.com/p-119146.html

Here is the dodge up-fitter info, take the links to you truck and read the electrical section (These are all PDF files so save them to you puter for future referance:

http://www.dodge.com/bodybuilder/year.pdf

race8082

Thank you for all the responses, looks like I will be adding the module. Cheaper than buying LED's

Colo_River_Ram

I'm thinking about adding them to my trucks as well (even though I have all LED's) as hooking onto one rusted out shorted trailer could get awful expensive..

On the right side of the modulite link page is the instructions if you want to preview them, this is available in several different kit options as well. I have not researched the Vally information yet.

race8082

Rather than run a positive wire to the front of the truck (battery), could you use the wire at the plug for your 12v+ with the fuse in line?

Thanks, in advance.

Colo_River_Ram

You could however that would take away from the amps to the trailer for charging batteries ect. If the trailer has no 12 V battery with an inverter then you could do it that way.. The C&C's have extra circuits in the up-fitters harness.

race8082

I ordered the heavy duty modulite from e-trailer and put it on. truck seems happy now.

I think tomorrow I will begin the debadging, the bill boards on the doors have got to go.

Thanks for the responses.

race8082

Finally got to test out the modulite. Lights ran for about ten miles then out again. I'm not sure if its a trailer problem now or if i need to take it in for the TIPM. When the lights went out I turned the truck lights off then back on and the lights on the trailer worked for another short period.

Thanks for any answers,

race8082

bump

tryNto

Get a solenoid from an RV place or auto parts. mount it under the rear of the truck, run a wire with a 30 amp breaker or fuse from the battery to the supply side of the solenoid, run the trip wire from your tail light wire on the truck. run the load wire to the trailer running lights through your connector.