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Was running just fine then quit?

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Old 04-18-2007, 08:08 PM
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Was running just fine then quit?

My 4BTA with rotary pump was running just fine cruising down the road then it just died. I assuming it ran of fuel(don't have a fuel guage). I filled the tank and started to bleed the lines but can't get it to start. I searched and read previous posts nd followed instructions; no luck.
I checked 12volt to fuel solenoid and it has power, but how do I check if it's working properly? Can I overide it? I have a fuel pressure guage and it shows 7psi. When I crank engine with bleeder nut loose it spews strongly.
There has to be a fool proof way of bleeding system and getting it started.
Any help would be appreciated.
Old 04-19-2007, 10:30 AM
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Loosen a couple of fuel lines at the injector, crank until fuel comes out, tighten the lines back up. It should start.
Old 04-19-2007, 11:59 AM
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Take the solenoid out, remove the plunger and re-install. You now should have fuel full time. To shut it off, there is a manual fuel shutoff lever.

Some guys are running like this as a matter of course, eliminates one other chance of a malfunction.
Old 04-19-2007, 07:32 PM
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Well just spent 3hours trying to get it started. NO LUCK!


1. Checked all filters: look clean
2.Blew out fuel line back to tank
3.Air compressed pressure into tank thru filler hole with rag around air gun to hold pressure then I cranked ignition with bleeder screw open. Plenty of fuel poured out untill I tightend bleeder screw. I pressurized the tank again and cranked the ingintion; didn't start!
4. I pressurized tank, opened the 4 injector bleeders and hand pumped the fuel pump untill I saw 8psi on guage at fuel filter oulet banjo then I cranked the ignition while watching pessure guage read 7.5 psi. and fuel poured out bleeders with no bubles. I tightend em' then cranked Ingnition; did'nt start!

5. I unhooked fuel solenoid wire then reatached checked to make sure it was getting 12Volts; good. But is the soleniod working? How do I make sure its working?



I'm feeling defeated and don't know what to do next.
The KSB thing is hooked up. What else should I check? Thanks for the help, Rick from SoCal; current temp 78degrees.
Old 04-19-2007, 07:43 PM
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You have to crack the lines at the injectors and purge air out of the lines.
What happens when air is in the lines is that it compresses and never reaches high enough pressure to pop the injectors. The air is stuck.
Old 04-19-2007, 09:12 PM
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Infedel I cracked open all 4 lines and bled. Still won't start. I'm gonna gut the solenoid and see what happens.
Old 04-20-2007, 11:00 AM
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Have you changed the timing at any time? I wonder if the gear slipped on the pump shaft. Check the timing.

If fuel is at the injector, the shutoff is prob OK.
Old 04-21-2007, 08:42 PM
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How much psi at injector?

Still cant get my rotary pump 12 valver started. I'm thinking it might be the shutoff valve not working properly.
I get 7.5 psi at the banjo bolt exiting the filter.
When I crank the the starter and open the bleeder at the injector I get a small amount of fuel coming out. Should'nt it be blasting out? What could be the reason for low PSI? Thanks
Old 04-22-2007, 11:04 AM
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Did you do 1 injector at a time or all at once? You might also want to hold accelerator wide open while cranking with 1 injector line open.I've never had a problem with the ve ,but on other diesels around here I often have to bleed of at pump end of line then at injector.These are only suggestions ,I know how frustrating it can get!
Old 04-23-2007, 01:37 PM
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I gutted the fuel shut off valve and reinstalled it. I opened the the #1 injector and cranked the engine to bleed it. Still cant get it to run! Can anyone please chime in with some advice?
There is no water in the oil. How do I check compression?
Old 04-23-2007, 04:34 PM
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Off hand, is the manual fuel shutoff lever stuck shut? Im at a loss as to why it would ever move on you, but I suppose if the return spring broke... I would have to look at mine again, but I believe it is at the back of the pump, towards the bottom. It should have no levers hooked to it and be spring loaded ( I think ) towards the front of the pump.

Check that.

Are you getting a real strong spray out of the injector line while it is cracked?

To check Compression, you are going to have to pull an Injector and use the correct adapter ( Non-Intercooled 12V ) and gauge.
Old 04-23-2007, 11:54 PM
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I finally got it to run!!!!
You guys were saying to crack open the injector and I thought I was:::::::: I was cracking the small bleeder screw at the side of the injector.
I finally cracked the injector at the feed line and it spit like yak at me. I Tightened it up and it fired up like a champ .
Few more question though. While it's idleing should I bleed the system more? Do you guys usually bleed it further? And if I do need to bleed it more do I crack the injector line or just the small bleeder on the side? thanks
Old 04-24-2007, 08:09 AM
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Once she runs, she self bleeds.

The little "bleeder" on the side is actually the return, shouldn't change anything.
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