beegiedog

I have a 2006 and it just started to run away with it self. I mean I was driving home and it just started to go faster and faster. I had to turn it off and it was bad here in the mountains. You can start it in park and just touch the fuel feed and it red lines.

I complained to Dodge and they sent a truck after it and then brought it back saying I had some injectors out and a dead cylinder? they said they wouldn't fix it. i have 147K on it. But it runs away. It just started right out of the blue. The turbo is ok and not leaking oil.

Now after I got it back it has a check engine light on it. Question:

1. How much are injectors rebuilt?

2. Should i replace all of them?

3. If i have a dead cylinder, what should i pay for a short block or just get a used engine and put in it?

Thanks

J.R.

cdennyb

OK, you say it just basically acts like you're flat footing the go pedel huh? So, injectors out (meaning don't work?) and a dead hole makes it "run away" uncontrollably? WOW, that's a new one on me. I'd think it had something to do with the APPS unit. That's what controls the ECM fuel management system. Did they say anything about that?
You have an electrical issue on fuel delivery and you're already tlking a new engine? I suppose that's as good a reason as any to upgrade. LOL My wife's too smart to go for that one though.
I have over 208K on mine and wouldn't think of changing it out unless I windowed the block or something disasterous. Injectors are reasonable from $800 to $3000 depending on what you want to do. If you're into the process that deep, why not upgrade all 6, if your changing from what you have to something else. Dead cylinders are caused either by a valve problem or an injector problem mostly. Occassionally you'll blow a head gasket and cause a cylinder to drop out but you'll need a shop that actually "wants" to help you.
Start with the electrical easy stuff first, then work your way up the food chain to the more expensive stuff.
Good luck, keep us posted as to what shows.

beegiedog

By the way, I didn't have a cel on the dash till they brought it back?

It is like you just push the fuel feed to the floor. I have two cops here I know as witness too. It is missing and they said that #1 injector was out and i had a dead cylinder.

I am going to pull the injectors and I have a camera that I can look into the cylinders and check them out before I do anything and at that time I will do a comprestion check on it too.

Trying to get the Goverment involved with this, cause it just took off (Toyota?) and like I sad I had to turn the truck off. Lucky I had the cops to witness this, one sat in the truck with me and it did it again, got up to 87 mph without touching the foot feed.

Can a person rebuild this engine? Does it have sleeves?

I have a 190 cummins in my grader and rebuilt two cylinders out of the six, sleeved and new piston, but i got the whole tractor for $2500.00 when I over hauled it. Droped a 200 button in the pump and I get better fuel hours now than I did with the 190 button.

Thanks again and if any one can help i would be thankful. J.R.

beegiedog

Anyone know of a good place to get injectors? And should I replace all of them?
Thanks again

FMB

Check out F1. Back to morning brew. . .

BigIron70

I would check your fuel for contamination first. If your fuel is contaminated you will just repeat the problem with the new injectors. Pull the fuel filter is there any metal or water in the bottom of fuel filter housing? Water in fuel will blow the tip off injectors, I've have seen that happen a few times to injectors. If you had a runaway the rpm would continue to build until the engine grenades. You still have fuel management possible just one injector is leaking causing your problem. Injectors cost around $350 EA. fuel tubes around $25 EA. But check your fuel quality first. I never had any luck with rebuilt injectors, especially from Chrysler. Pull injectors and do compression test to make sure no internal damage to pistons or cylinder walls.

beegiedog

Thank you BigIron70,

I have the tools and knowledge to rebuild the old ones but these new ones, i know nothing about.

I will do a compresion check on each cylinder and then look on the inside of each cylinder to see if it is scored.

I just can not believe what Dodge in Canon said about the truck. the service manager even said it took off with them and it would try to red line there when they had it.

What gets me is I changed my fuel filter about 159 miles before all this happened. changed oil and filter and even did the tranny and rear ends too. It was running fine, no miss or smoke and it just took off like you were mashing the foot feed to the floor. It ran maybe two miles before I killed it.

Thanks again for the Info.
J.R.

BigIron70

I had that happen to me once and truck almost went through the wall of the shop. The torque converter had locked up and it was just like direct drive. Not a very good way to start your day. I hope your bore scope fits into injector hole, mine didn't. I had to pull the head. Good luck with your truck
Bill

beegiedog

Thanks Bill.

I have a small scope about the size of a small pin. I've had to use it before in one of my tractors. I will keep this updated on what i find.

J.R.

gresh1003

You said that you have a check engine light on now, what are the code(s) that are popping. The reason I ask is cause my truck started doing the same thing one day. I started from a red light and the truck auto accelerated. After checking codes found out that it was the APPS (accelerator pedal position sensor) Give this a look it, if you dont know how to check your codes just ask...

Mr Jerry

They will run away if there running on oil,,,so keep that in mind !

Sur5er

Pop the intake horn and make sure you aren't sucking engine oil. VW had a problem with their Rabbit, but you could tell it was engine oil by the cloud of blue smoke that used to be the road in the rear view mirror. That problem was related to the crank vent hose (like a first gen PCV).

beegiedog

Hi all,
I am not using oil at all. the horn is dry. I thought i might have a turbo seal out but then I couldn't turn the truck off?

I do not know how to check the engine light for codes can you all tell me how?

Hvytrkmech

As previously stated, I agree with an injector tip issue. I have as recently as yesterday dealt with a blown out injector tip that caused a run away N14 with a dead hole only to find 2 failed injectors. One with the tip cracked open and the other with and electrical issue. before assuming the worst verify the concern as you intend to do.

Keep us posted.

beegiedog

Thanks I'll do it and keep posting on what i find. It snowed last night here so I can't work on it today. Can't get it in the barn. THANKS