THEBIGBULLY

When engine is up to operating temperature and idling.

I take off the rad cap and the coolant is just sitting like a bowl of water.

Should it not be "moving" as it's being cycled through the circuit????

Thermostat is open.

I'm still having high temp. problems and am leaning towards this as the problem.

I had the pump out a few months ago and all looked well with it. But if it's junk.....it's going!!!!

Thanks in advance.

dieselfreak21

Some time up top you won't always see it moving. Did it spew when you opened it? Are you sure the thermostate is working? They usually stick open and not closed. They are cheap to replace unless you get them from a dealer and take less than an hour. Look at wheel with the engine running. If it wobbels then it is bad. Are you running the HOAT and when was the last time it was flushed. If replacing the water pump replace the thermostat. Cheap insurance.

THEBIGBULLY

I tested the therm. and it worked (pot on the stove method)
It only spews part of the time (maybe 50%)
I had the pump out and it seemed solid ref. wear and function.
I flushed the engine a month ago.
HOAT ????
Thanks for the reply!!!

dieselfreak21

Ignore the hoat, wrong year. My 3rd gen requires it. If isn't spewing at opperating teamps and thermostat good there is a pressure leak maybe. You would see it leaking unless the head gasket went. Just my thoughts on it. hopefully some more experts will chime in. Every time I have pulled a cap on a hot engine it always spewed a little so that is what I am basing it on and I have known over heating vechiles that have had the wp and the therm ruled out had a leak. Have you checked the oil to make sure not milky or is coolant missing?

aicomp

I fixed a problem like this by opening the bleed plug and getting the air out of the system.
Just my $.02
Mike

jimbo486

I'm with Mike. Excess air in the system will cause higher temperatures and possible over heating if enough air is still in the system. I learned from a heating and cooling friend of mine that ran a shop for 30 years, after a cooling system flush and upon refilling the system, take it for a short drive to allow things to warm up and open the thermostat. If any air was still trapped, it should have passed through the thermostat. Usually the level in the radiator should drop. Top it off to just under the cap and it should be good to go. I check the level on a daily basis to be sure it hasn't dropped anymore. I have a Stant lever-vent cap, so bleeding off any pressure is done safely and without any mess . I also like to mix demineralized water with the coolant to prevent the build up of any scale.

THEBIGBULLY

I've bled it a couple of times with the bung on the head.
My engine oil is fine.
Radiator started leaking yesterday. It's only a year old and there is not a scratch on it. I have WAY too much pressure in my system. Same thing happened to the one before this one.
I'm going to pull the rad AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!and get a new thermostat AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and keep the swearing to a minimum.
Thanks fella's,
This whole thing stinks of weird.

deanhinsley1963

If you are getting comp. in the rad. probably head gasket time

brainfade

It's rare, but I have seen once where the head gasket went bad in such a way that combustion gasses were getting into the cooling jacket but there was no coolant loss the other way. If you're seeing excessive pressure in the cooling system this might be the case. One way to check is to have someone with an exhaust gas anylizer "sniff" the coolant while the engine is running. If there is exhaust in the coolant the sniffer will show it and a head gasket likely will fix it provided nothing is cracked.

THEBIGBULLY

Brand new head gasket installed Feb.
Had a mechanic sniffing around as well. He gave me the big shrug, something is wrong but it is being abnormally difficult to find.

(I also can't believe I spelled "faulty" wrong )

Tom. I'm ripping her apart.................