how to repair hole in the A/C evaporator?
#1
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Location: Portland, OR
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how to repair hole in the A/C evaporator?
looking for any advice from metal workers out there on this one...
i dont know what the evaporator under the dash on the passenger inside is made of .. aluminum? steel? plated?
but i accidently drilled a small hole in it at the underside
and PSHHHHHhhhhh!! all the a/c pressure drained in 5 mins
My question.. can that hole be plugged, filled, repaired, brazed, soldered? or anything? I cant and dont want to spend $1500 to replace the evap and have the whole dash ripped out.. i can cut away some of the plastic housing around the hole and fix that l8r
i dont know what the evaporator under the dash on the passenger inside is made of .. aluminum? steel? plated?
but i accidently drilled a small hole in it at the underside
and PSHHHHHhhhhh!! all the a/c pressure drained in 5 mins
My question.. can that hole be plugged, filled, repaired, brazed, soldered? or anything? I cant and dont want to spend $1500 to replace the evap and have the whole dash ripped out.. i can cut away some of the plastic housing around the hole and fix that l8r
#5
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Not what you want to hear, but the evap needs to come out. Depending on exactly where you hit it, it might be fixable, but best bet is a new one.
#6
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this is not making me happy, who would even have thought trying to clean the evaperator to get rid of a smell would end up costing well over $1000!!
the hole looks like something you could skrew a screw into and then seal it up..
uhh im sick
if i tried something like that, could i test for leaks by re-pressurizing with just air?.. hmmmm the fitting under the hood doesnt look like a schrader valve compressor would work anyway..
the hole looks like something you could skrew a screw into and then seal it up..
uhh im sick
if i tried something like that, could i test for leaks by re-pressurizing with just air?.. hmmmm the fitting under the hood doesnt look like a schrader valve compressor would work anyway..
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#8
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this is not making me happy, who would even have thought trying to clean the evaperator to get rid of a smell would end up costing well over $1000!!
the hole looks like something you could skrew a screw into and then seal it up..
uhh im sick
if i tried something like that, could i test for leaks by re-pressurizing with just air?.. hmmmm the fitting under the hood doesnt look like a schrader valve compressor would work anyway..
the hole looks like something you could skrew a screw into and then seal it up..
uhh im sick
if i tried something like that, could i test for leaks by re-pressurizing with just air?.. hmmmm the fitting under the hood doesnt look like a schrader valve compressor would work anyway..
#11
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#12
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#13
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Years ago we repaired copper tubing condensers and evaporators with a special self fluxing rod and an oxy-acetylene torch and never had one leak. We also sometimes repaired aluminum tubed components when we couldn't easily find a replacement for the part. Those were sent out to an aluminum welder and the cost was more. The chance of repairing it successfully without removing it is ZERO. If when you remove it the tubing is copper (I don't remember) then it could easily and cheaply be repaired. If not a replacement would be the best way to go. Mine rotted out at the bottom in about 5 years and I replaced it with new.
As mentioned the way to leak check is to pull a vacuum close to 30 inches then shut the gauges and see if it drops. If it drops any you DO have some sort of leak and there is absolutely no point in charging it until fixed. Pulling the vacuum also "boils" out any moisture that has entered the system while it was open.
As mentioned the way to leak check is to pull a vacuum close to 30 inches then shut the gauges and see if it drops. If it drops any you DO have some sort of leak and there is absolutely no point in charging it until fixed. Pulling the vacuum also "boils" out any moisture that has entered the system while it was open.
#14
I would definatley do the small sheet metal screw covered with JB weld. clean the area with brake cleaner first, do the fix and wait 24 hours. I would expect complete success.
Bubba
Bubba
#15
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Easy, Remove dash, Remove evap box, and replace the aluminum evaporator with new one. Also, replace the reciever/dryer. Pull a vaccum, turn off and let it sit for 30min. to ensure no leaks. Recharge. I beat this is one hard and expensive lesson to learn. Wish I could be more helpful. If any of the aluminum in the evaporator gets in the compressor. It's gonna be toast, also.