TexasCTD

How often do you recommend repacking the wheel bearings on a Travel Trailer? I don't think it has been done on my 2004 FS2600 Weekend Warrior Toyhauler, so im sure it is due. It doesn't have excessive miles on it though. My guess would be 3-4K or so with a few long periods of sitting still.

I have never done this but it can't be to complicated. Any recommendations on grease? Suggestions on what to do, how to? TIA

..

Jeff in TD

I think Dexter actually recommended 6 months on their page, but I think annually is probably OK, and I personally wouldn't go longer than 2 years. Trailers often sit for long periods of time w/o the bearings getting spun, which I think lets condensation build up and/or the grease can seperate or break down.

I'd recommend synthetic grease that meets NLGI GC-LB, meaning it meets their highest standard for both chassis and wheel bearing application. I think I used Mobile 1 last time, that comes in a tube or tub.

I'd also say replace the grease seals.

Both Al-Ko and Dexter have great manuals as a free download PDF.

Under "Service Information" use the pull down menu to select "complete manual".

http://www.dexteraxle.com/products___literature

On this page, just select Owner's Manual.

http://www.al-kousa.com/index.htm

TexasCTD

Hmm....guess I need to see which brand of axles this thing has. I didn't see any mention on WW's website. I know I have a manual to it but it is not available to me at the moment. It probably just says to take it to the RV dealer for service anyway.

I guess I will just buy enough of the grease you mentioned above and look closer at it. I just bought it, used, about a year ago.

..

TexasCTD

Here is a pic, FWIW, if it would be of any help in determining exactly what I need to do with it. Thanks.


..

chaikwa

chaikwa.

Jeff in TD

There will likely be a tag on the axle tube that identifies it, however repack and adjustment procedure will be pretty much the same.

It wouldn't hurt to download and browse through both manuals.

TexasCTD

Ok thanks guys. I appreciate the help. Also, if anybody has any experience with the axles on this type of TT, please jump in. Thanks.

..

SundayMoney

My buddy has a triple axle WW he bought new in '05. He repacks the bearings every Spring just like I do on my Keystone. I'd much rather be repacking them too often,than not often enough.

Replacing bearings on the side of the road sucks. Its much easier to do it in the driveway.

Its really easy. It usually takes me a couple hours to do all four on my fifth wheel.

Jeff in TD

A kind of brief summary...

Loosen the lugs before jacking it up, use a safety stand and remove the wheel, dust cap, cotter pin, axle nut, washer... You might be able to rock the drum slightly to get the outer bearing to pop out.

Then pull the drum off. If it's worn, you might have to back the shoes off via the star wheel and a brake adjusting lever.

Once the drum is off, pry out the grease seal on the inside, and remove the inner bearing.

Clean out all the old grease with some rags. I like to use kerosene or diesel and an oil drain pan to clean up the bearings and parts (don't use gasonline). Clean up the spindle brakes, and make sure the magnets and shoes are servicable. Compressed air can be used to dry the parts, but don't let the air twirl the bearings around on their races.

Even though most brakes these days don't have asbestos, it is still a good practice not make a bunch of airborn brake dust, so you may want to use a damp rag to wipe off parts covered in dust and/or wear an appropriate protective mask.

Inspect the bearings, races, armature and drum surfaces and replace anything that looks iffy.

Once everything is clean, put about a golf ball size wad of grease into the hollow in the hub between the bearing races. Work grease into the bearings in the palm of your hand until grease fills all the space between the rollers, inner race, and cage.

Put the inner bearing back into the hub, and drive in the new seal. Wood block and sledge work well. Put a light coat of grease on the spindle, hub goes on along with bearing, washer, and nut.

I like to spin the wheel while tightening the nut pretty snug, then back the nut off. With a pliars or something you can feel where the nut kind of takes up the slack and seats, then back it off one space from there to line up the cotter pin. Dust cap and wheel goes back on.

With the wheel on, adjust the star adjuster out until you can't rotate the wheel forward by hand. That kind of centers the brake shoes. Back off the star adjuster until the wheel turns free, plus about 3/4 of a turn of the star wheel more (4-5 bites).

You may still hear drag when the brakes are adjusted properly, which would be the magnet skimming along the armature. You may or may not be able to feel a very slight play in the hub/bearings...

w.tx iceman

Good info here,btw, even if the trailer is new check the bearings. I lost one sat. that should have been in good shape. The shmuck at trailer factory did an excellent job of packing bearing

TexasCTD

Thanks for all the great info Jeff.

..

dj_souvlaki

repacking bearings is probably the most hated thing in a mechanics job. next to re sealing a cadillac northstar. but thats a different story.

i would recommend getting a auto bearing repaker. forgot the actual name of it but it makes the job so much easier and so less messy. pretty much fill the cup with grease, insert the bearing and push the cap down and it does the job for you.

Hvytrkmech

Here you go, scroll down, they have a manual packer, I have this one at the house, it works super slick.

They also have a srew packer for less money but you need a grease gun to pack the bearing, this one i use at the shop and it works super slick also.


http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_browse_list.cfm?browse=7




Tim

high bid

exactly what Jeff stated and prior to lowering the axle, try to move the tire side-to-side and top-to-bottom...any movement at all and you'll need to redo it all and/or tighten the castle nut more. At $10 bucks a pkg for a bearing set I carry 2-3 in the tool box just in case as they're worth their weight in gold if you loose a bearing on the road in bfe...don't ask how I know this.

zfort001

I agree with keeping a set or 2 of spare bearings and inner seals handy. Pack them like you are about to instal them then place them in a grease tub or tupperware type container with extra grease and carter pins so you just have to pull and replace on the roadside if a failure hapens.
Also the addition of some bearing buddy's like on a boat trailer let you give em a shot of grease mid trip just dont rely on the bearing buddy's alone as they dont hit the inner bearing as well as the outer but the extra grease capacity helps with cooling the bearings on long trips.