shima

I noticed a couple or three weeks ago, that when backing into my driveway, there was a chirping sound and sometimes a popping noise coming from the rear of the truck. I didnt know at the time, but now I know from reading in the forums that this is most likely bad u joints. Yesterday, it started vibrating noticeably. I know I need to change them soon, but I wonder how long I can drive it this way before it tears up something else. I drive 120 miles round trip to work and home and I need to make it till the weekend so I can have the time and money to replace the joints. Should I go straight to the parts store today after work, get the joints, and change them before I drive back home or will it be ok to drive the rest of the week? Any input or experience would be appreciated. Thanks. Brian

firestorm

I wouldn't wait any longer than necessary, and if do have to wait, don't drive the truck. I don't know what the u-joint costs, because it's been so long, but I know it is a lot cheaper than a drive shaft, yoke, floor pans, and other items. I would stop at the store, pick up the parts, then take it home and put them in. Driving it like it has a knocking rod of course.

OOPS

Change it ASAP or do not drive it. You blow it at any speed and it could tear things up under there. I had a friend that blew a front u-joint on his 53 Ford at about 60 MPH and he flipped it on to the top.

Jeff in TD

I'd agree. That vibration could put stress on the output bearings of the transfer case, and you never know when one might break and drop the shaft.

Those plastic retained buggers can be a pain to do, but I think it needs done before you drive the thing.

DodgeChallenger

Sorry to hijack the thread a little but it is related to this article - is there a way to get rid of that plastic insert thingy? IE is there a conversion kit available. My 07 has 77K KMs on it and she is starting - I can hear it so that job is on the to do list before 5th wheel time comes in 4 weeks.

torquefan

As far as the plastic goes, I usually heat around each u-joint cap, as gently as possible with a torch, until the plastic softens and will squirt out a hole in the ear of the shaft. Then you are free to tap or press out the cap as normal. The replacement joint will come with internal clips.
NOTE: wear safety glasses while heating the plastic. It is possible for it to spurt out with some force.

Jeff in TD

Yeah, that's how I did it too. Oxy acetylene torch, and a ball joint press.

The rear 2 piece shaft is balanced as an assembly, so be sure to match mark them so they can be assembled in the same relationship they were in.

The yokes have two grooves cut in them: One for the ring of injected plastic used at the factory, and one for a normal snap ring for use when the stock joint goes bad.

Here's a little video I did of the process.

shima

Quick update. I went ahead and replaced it the evening that I posted the question. I bought 2 U-joints from Napa with greasable fittings and a friend helped me change them out. I cant imagine trying to do that job with a vice and not a press. We had to use a torch as mentioned by some other guys here. It was a new experience for the older fellow that helped me do the job. He had never seen a u-joint with the injected epoxy ring or whatever that stuff is. It was a time consuming job not having experience or all the proper equipment, but we got both joints changed and I got it back in yesterday. It runs great. No popping, chirping, or vibrations. I did learn a lesson. Make NOTICEABLE markings for reinstallation purposes. Between the torching and washing of the parts, my marks had almost disappeared. That would have been bad to get it back together and installed and have to take it back out and take it apart because it wasnt lined up correctly. Luckily, I could barely see my marks and it turned out well. I did end up breaking a cap, so I had to buy an extra u-joint. Now, I have a spare. Thanks for all the inputs.

Jeff in TD

Glad to hear you got it fixed.

I gotta say I'm not a big fan of that injected plastic stuff. I assume they must use that to aid automated assembly in the factory, but it sure makes replacement later a pain. One would think the cost of machining the extra groove in the yoke and the groove in the cap would offset the cost of having someone put snap rings in at the factory, but I guess not.

OOPS

The cost of a machine is a one-time expense, the cost of a body is on going.

Raspy

Mine started vibrating at about 185,000 miles or so and I decided to change out the driveshaft with a new one. About $180. from Dodge. It came complete with a new spline on the front and ready to bolt in. Took all of ten minutes to install. Now the old one can be rebuilt and ready to go in next time.

They can vibrate quite a bit and not be anywhere near ready to come apart. I worried about that seriously as mine vibrated and blurred the rear view mirror. But after taking it apart, the old shaft was not that bad, so change it soon, but don't panic.