robert chilton

How hard is this sucker to replace? I cracked it when I changed out the rear main seal on the truck I tried to run it but It isnt going to work. It needs replaced. does the oil pan need dropped or does the adapter unbolt from the back? If anyone has a line on one let me know. I really need to get my truck back on the road.

bgilbert

I've seen them available on ebay. They just unbolt from the back of the engine, and then you remove the bottom bolts that secure it and the rear of the oil pan. Be careful loosening the bolts at the rear of the oil pan. Once removed, run a feeler gauge or something thin to separate the oil pan and gasket from the rear cover so as to not damage the oil pan gasket. Don't want to make this an even bigger job.

I'm sure they're available from Cummins too. You'll also want a new rear cover gasket for this job too. Don't want to have to do this job again because you tried to reuse an old gasket.

robert chilton

bgilbert thanks
I found some info like you stated last night in my ISB book. They mention installing the gasket and retainer then trimming the excess off at the pan rails. Rather than going through the hassle of dropping the pan do you think a silicon sealer would work? I want to do this right but at the same time the easiest way possible.

bgilbert

You don't have to drop the oil pan to do this job. You're just removing I think maybe 4 bolts from the rear of the pan. The gasket is cheap like $6, last I checked ~2 weeks ago. I would get one rather than silicone. I don't know if silicone would work, you could try it .

turbo6justin

I did this two weeks ago since I too can be a dumb a$# and broke the housing. Once the tranny is out and the engine to tranny adapter is off it is pretty straightforward. There are 6 bolts that hold it to the back of the block and 4 that go through the oil pan. The gasket is cheap, buy it. If you are like me you will think you got the wrong gasket since the 'legs' are too long. I believe they are designed to be cut to length and this is what I did. I put an ample amount of RTV in the corners where the housing meets the block and oil pan and a light film on the gasket. Not too much but if you have done a gasser intake manifold it is about the same. That joint needs a little RTV in my opinion. I put my seal in the new housing on the bench and it seamed to work well with the little install/plastic thingie. I torqued the bolts to 18 in-lbs and threw the rest of it together. I ended up having the part overnighted from Cummins through my local dealer and it was still only $45. Once the tranny is out this is a very simple project.

this will give part numbers
https://qsol2.cummins.com/qs2/portal...1&header=false

robert chilton

Thanks guys. You wouldnt happen to have the part numbers would you. My serial number plate is missing in action. I havnt pulled the truck back apart. I am borrowing a bigger jack today. That 4500 was no fun on a standard floor jack.

turbo6justin

The part number on my invoice is 3936904.

robert chilton

Thanks turbo. I have the new seal and adapter installed now. I ended up getting a new gastket for the adapter. The oil pan gasket did rip even after attempting to break the bond with a putty knife. I siliconed that for now. One of these days the pan gasket needs changed anyways but that day hasnt come yet.
Now I just need to get the trans back in the truck. I worked on it till my patience was spent. It was definatly easier the first time when I had help.