bariley

im redoing my brakes and i've heard of people bypassing the abs controler mounted to the frame in the rear of the truck, im not certain if this IS an ABS controler, a preportioning valve, or possibly a brake light switch? dad and i've argued over this for a while now haha. so do you think its best to bypass this "thing" or not.
thanks
-Ben

Boatnik

IMHO, if it works, don't fix it. I haved owned pick up trucks continuously since 1975. They are nose heavy and like to swap ends on wet pavement when empty. An operating rear ABS is a plus. A complete total ABS is better.

bariley

i wouldnt have a clue if it works or not, the trucks a scrapyard salvage it drove from the yard to home, about 5 min, relyed on downshifting and used the brakes very little, i've heard of people bypassing them and having rear drums that felt like rear disks

DNRCustoms

IMO.. I like bypassing it because it seems to give a more positive feel when braking. But, I do agree that a properly workig abs for the average driver is better. but it sometimes is hard to get a 17yr old system perfect. Thats why I usally just drop the fuel tank and run a new line from the front to the back hooking it right into the rubber line coming up from the axle. Then adjust the rear pads so there you can hear/feal the pads dragging a little.

Boatnik

I went to the larger wheel cylinders and had similar results. It is really whatever you feel most comfortable with. Before throwing the ABS modulator away I would try flushing out the system with fresh fluid first. Rust is a real problem on older vehicles.

maybe368

As has been stated on this forum before, and in light of my recent near death experience on I 10, you must consider the possible liability of disconnecting this valve. It will also cause your insurance company to deny a claim that they would otherwise pay.....be very careful and think about it seriously, IMHO. PS it is the RWAL modulator valve, so whoever said that it's RWAL, wins...Mark

wannadiesel

It is the dump valve, it's what pulses the brakes when the RWAL system activates.

If you don't have a chronic spongy pedal it is probably in good shape.

I would replace mine if it went bad. You do what makes you happy.

bariley

thanks for the help, i've decided to keep it in, but i forgot to mark what inlet was the inlet and what one was the outlet. whoops! anyone know? thanks

wannadiesel

I'm visiting the big mouse and no, I did not pack the FSM. Can anybody else get this one?

maybe368

Are you talking about at the master cylinder or at the dump valve? At the MS the front compartment goes to the rear. The fittings on the dump valve are 2 different sizes and, I believe only go on 1 way. When it gets a little lighter outside I'll take a look as to which is which...Mark

bariley

the dump valve, i have the lines cut so im not sure what ones in, and what ones out

maybe368

Here are some pics, hope they help...Mark

bariley

haha thank you, but what one goes to the axle and what one goes to the master? im sorry if i wasnt clear on the question

Alec

Wiring harness end, inlet from master cylinder, outlet to brakes, bleed valve. In that order.

Mark,
I hope you appreciate that dry salt free corrosionless environment you live in. Seeing that picture makes me want to cry when I think about what my sensor looked like when I pulled it out.

maybe368

Yeah, I try not to rub it in. I would say that the trade off is the heat in the summer, but I like that too ...Mark