1rocn4x

Hey guys, quick question regarding my truck. Couple weeks ago started getting a slight squeak from the rear when ever I would pull away from a stop. now it is squealing really bad. Doesnt seem to squeal when stopping though. I pulled the rear tires off today to have a look, and well the pads seem fine, maybe 1/2 way worn. driver side rear rotor seems ok, just a little tiny lip on the outside edge. the passenger rear how ever has quite the lip on it. is my caliper sticking???? like I said both pads looked good.

Gunna change both rear rotors and pads, but you think maybe just need new pins and slides, or am I lookin at new calipers?

Truck has 77+k on it, Ive had it since 62k. dont know if brakes were ever done before. previous owner had almost all work done by dealership as far as routine maintenance. thanks for any insight, scott.

.boB

Disc brake squeal is caused by a pad vibrating ion the caliper. Usually the outboard pad. Cleaning the contact surfaces wekk and applying some Permatex Disc Brake Anti-Squeal is usually all it needs. Usually <$5.

1rocn4x

At first, it wasn't making any sound at all as I would come to a stop. Only as I would pull away. That was when it would squeak some. Then it went to were I could hear the rotor turning like it was dragging on the pads until I got up to about 20 mph or so then would go away( either that or I just couldn't hear it over the 5" exhaust).

So that's when I pulled the rear tires off to look at the brake's. pads looked good, but the passenger side rotor has a pretty good lip cut into it like the pads are digging in. Both pads though are wearing even. Pulled the calipers off and removed the pads, and well, to say the backs of them had seen better days is an understatement, lol. Severely rusted, scaled over and DRY. So I cleaned em up, knocking off all the rust, and scale, lubed up the pads and reinstalled em. helped knock down the squealin but I can still hear the rotors turning. Thats why I was thinkin caliper are stickin a little??


I did notice that the slide pins were fairly tough to move back and forth. I just got done doing my wife's truck's brake's couple months ago, had to replace front and rear rotors and pads, and her pins moved alot free'er, although thats probably like comparing apples to oranges since she has an Excursion. ( her brakes were horrible, soft pedal, lots of travel and no bite. dealer said thats the way these trucks are. now after powerslot rotors, hawk pads, and adjusting the plunger screw behind the MC she stops like a dream).

1rocn4x

Are you saying that the rotating metal on metal sound would be the u joints, or the squeaking and squealin? Since I pulled the pads off and cleaned the crap out of them, lubed them up and reinstalled them the squeaking is all but gone for the most part. The back of the pads where covered in rust and scaled over badly ( no surprise there, I live 30 min S of the Wisconsin boarder). Guess I can go out and look at em though.

Where the pads slide onto the caliper they didnt even want to slide off they were so rusted. I've never seen brakes or pads look like that. Course I've only lived in Illinois for about 8 yrs now, born and raised in Northern California central valley. Come to think of it, the wife's didn't look near as rusted or scaled as mine. hers is an '05, mine an '06. Granted her's had 46k miles were mine has 77k.

Now that I'm getting to talk this out with someone, ( the wife starts gettin that glazed look in her eye if I even mention something about the truck)if the pads were rusted to the point of not being able to slide on their slide rail, that would maybe have the same effect of sticking calipers, and maybe explain why the metal sound goes away after accelerating (the pads release with the vibration)

Belgrath04

I agree with you on the slide rail. If they are not able to slide freely you will get excessive wear and heat.

One other thing I found out the hard way on a previous truck.
It is good practice to have your brake system flushed with fresh fluid every 1-2 years.
As most of you know brake fluid (DOT4 or lower are glycol based DOT 5 is Silicone based) is very hydroscopic (likes to absorb water). If sufficient moisture is absorbed, the fluid can be come corrosive and actually cause the rubber on the interior of the hoses to swell.

Push on the pedal pressure the system, release pedal and hose restriction can trap a small ammout of pressure in the caliper causing them to drag.

1rocn4x

Yeah, thats what I'm hoping is the only major problem. I'm going to start with replacing the rotors and pads, clean up the slide rails real good, and bleed the system. If at that point I still have the metal sound, then I know calipers are needed.

Now when it comes to fluid, I'm guessing that the 06's were still dot 4?? I'll double check with the all mighty, ever knowing owners manual before doing of course.

I would really prefer to upgrade to EBC stuff, or powerslots and Hawk pads, but like most everyone funds are tight. haven't priced the oem stuff yet, but not sure if to go that way or just something like Napa, or Advanced auto since its for the rear. When I do the front I know I will upgrade to better.

Thanks for the help guys, I'm by no means a mechanic, but just someone who prefers to try and fix things myself before having to go to the dreaded dealer or shop. I can do basic bolt on stuff, and not too afraid to try new stuff ( with proper guidance, of course!).

1rocn4x

For when I go to remove the rotors, I remember reading a post the other day " how do you remove these darn rotors." one of the replies was to remove the clips and it should come right off. The poster said there were no clips. believe he also had an 06 2500. When I was lookin at my rotors I did notice on two opposing lug nuts ( 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock) that I DO have two clips on the rotor. do you just cut the off, ply'em out or what. Seems like if I were to just start swingin away with a bfh those clips might mess up the lug threads. TIA, Scott.

.boB

thos are called Tinnerman nuts. They hold the rotor in place during production, but have no function after that. Cut them off with a pair of diagonal wire cutters.

1rocn4x

Ok, thanks, good to know. Now I just gotta decide on rotors. Was just gunna go with Advanced Auto but I found Power Slots rotors, and Power Stop rotors at AutoAnything for around $30s more apiece, so going to try and swing picking those up instead with either hawk or greenstuff pads. Any thoughts on which is better. I haven't heard too much on the power stops before, every one seems to go with power slots.

.boB

Slotting is good if you're really abusing your brakes. When abused, they tend to get overheated, and glaze over. Once glazed, you lose a lot performance. The slots act like a cheese slicer, and shave off a little pad material. The upside of that is better perfoprmance in extreme conditions. The downside is decreased pad life. I have these on my track car.

If your rotors are in decent shape, just have them resurfaced.

If you need to replace them, use a quality solid rotor - with no holes, slots, or dimples.

1rocn4x

Thanks .boB. No, I don't think I generally abuse my brakes. Don't tow much, try to coast to stops instead of throttling up to the last possible sec then brake, lol. Don't think resurfacing them is an option. Their rusted pretty badly and the passenger side has a good lip on it already. If I have to use a hammer to get them off, I think that would do them in.

By quality rotor, you mean like no auto zone, advanced auto, napa, lee's, murry's or any thing like that?? No big deal if not, maybe I'll call around to the dealership and price there stock replacements. thanks for your help and time.

diesel4play

Haven't done the rotors yet but did Greenstuff pads all around and love em. No noise, almost no dust and great stop. Better than stock in every way and a couple bucks more than the OEM pads. Got mine at Autoanything.com
Good luck

.boB

Getting the rotors from one of the chains is just fine. They generally have a couple of choices - from cheap to not so cheap. Get the best you can afford. But don't spend bux for fancy names like Wilwood or Baer. They won't perform any better than a stock replacement.

1rocn4x

Thats what I was hoping to hear. I just gotta wait till the end of the month to do it all. Thanks all for your help, and a great site.