BC847

Hey folks. I've been tinkering here and there under the hood and wonder if any of you know:

- Where one could find an economical source of a pull-cable (ideally push/pull) that has a round **** or T-handle (threaded/removable so as to allow passing through a mounting hole. RE: Dash) on one end.
And a threaded metal sleeve holding a 1/4" pin on the other end. The threaded sleeve would mount through a plate. The 1/4" pin would need to move about 1/2" at the most. The cable would need to reach from the dash right there at your left knee, to over at the engine air filter plumbing.

- A means of indexing the throttle shaft with a working range that's slightly shorter than a regular 3200rpm governor spring would have. I'm overshooting peak throttle pull put to the mechanism downstream of the gov spring. I'm not sure how to go about it other than a dyno or ET. I can't tell by the seat-of-the-pants gauge anymore.

- How are you dealing with hot fuel at the drag-strip? You run as little fuel in the tank to keep the weight down, but with repeated runs and cool-down time, the fuel gets hot. I'm trying to sort-out a historic issue of my mess having it's best pass of the day, being the first pass.
After each pass, I allow my mess to idle long enough for not only the EGTs to drop, but also the transmission fluid temp (by way of a fan assisted auxiliary cooler). In my mess, 100*F warmer trans fluid temp adds .1 second to an 8th mile pass. I can change nothing and with very consistent engine and transmission temps, I can have an ET drift up to a quarter of a second. Ambient air temps and humidity don't alter this issue.
> One night recently, during a cool-down after a pass, I put my hand on the fuel pressure regulator and Daggum! That boy was just this side of HOT!
Could my ET drift issue be a simple as dropping fuel density? I've thought about cooling the fuel by pulling the plug on the fuel heater on top of the filter. It only recently dawned on me that thing runs all the time . . . ? I've also thought about getting a power steering fluid cooler from a bigger car or truck and install it in the fuel circuit somewhere. What'cha reckon?

- What about a under-hood mounted enclosure for a bunch of electronics (Head light relays, cab heat/AC blower relays, fuses replacing fuse links, cool-down timer, master gauge controller and other stuff). Perhaps as big as a standard shoe box or so. All the stuff mounted on a plate with the wiring underneath. The box would only need to be rainproof (dripping from the hood) and would be mounted where the grid heater relays currently reside.


Stuff like that.

wannadiesel

Sounds like a morse cable is the sort of thing you are looking for. Maybe there's a heavy equipment dealer or custom truck outfitter near you? Things like that are used to run PTO's and valves remotely.

I'm not sure I understand the second question. Feeling blonde today.

There's probably something to the idea of hot fuel. Have you thought about the classic drag racing cool can? Basically a coffee can with a coil of fuel line, fill the can with ice and replenish as needed.

The fuel heater is always powered but basically shuts down around 60 degrees. One of those positive temperature coefficient type thingys.

BC847

Thanks Dave.

wannadiesel

Kinda figured that's what the cable was for.

I'd use the high idle screw if you need to limit linkage travel. Have you tried removing the return springs and cycling the linkage by hand to see if you can feel the "break" point? That might give you a good place to start. That's an odd effect and I can't say I've noticed it myself. I'll have to do some "testing" when the roads dry off...

A cool can with ice water will not drop the fuel temp low enough to cause the paraffin to start crystallizing, let alone actually start gelling. The wax crystallizing doesn't start happening until below 20 degrees or so. With the flow rate being high and the rate of heat transfer being fairly low, I think you'd be lucky to get fuel to the pump at a temp below 120 degrees on a summer night using a cool can. I can't think of any other realistic options for your use besides a cool can.

BC847

Thanks Dave.

dillenger1

just reindex your splined shaft

93flatbed

Could a simple choke cable work? I've gotten them from parts stores before. And I'd think it would be robust enough to close your air shut off?

As for the cooling of fuel... The Chevies use them in front of the fuel tank and cool the fuel on the return side which in turn cools the tank, but for your cold weather situation you would have you fuel heater to help out with gelling. I'm sure one could be had from the local pick and pull. (Duramax only 2001-present)

And for the "relay" box, I'd think an old military ammo box would look cool...Well that would look cool to me. And it's water proof! A little cut out of the bottom would give room for the wiring. But I don't know if you got enough room under the hood. Looks like you have a few more options going on than what the truck came with from the factory!!!

BC847

That's what I'm talking about.

I'm at a point where one spline is too far one way or the other. I need to dial in both the at idle position as well as the full fuel postilion. It's gonna amount to a narrower throttle rotation compared to a stock or a unmolested 3200 spring.


Let me show you what I'm talking about . . .

I let off the throttle just after 4000rpms. See the upswing in both the HP & Torque?




I didn't have full fueling for that dyno run!

Jim Lane

David,
Why don't you use a solenoid instead of a cable and also connect it to an over speed switch that could automatically shut down your engine in the event of a runaway also a button on the dash?
All of the Detroit's that I have worked on had a solenoid.

Is that a butterfly style and did you build it?

I see that BD now sells one.
http://www.dieselperformance.com/ind...uct/index/188P

Teleflex cables are used in marine applications and are heavy duty.

TIMMY22

A few years ago I thought of the same thing, only on the exhaust.

"push button for strait pipes"

"Here comes a cop, push again for a muffler"

Jim Lane

They have used those for years even back in the 40's hot rods had exhaust cutouts, I know a guy that has a performance muffler shop and he installs them, they work neat.
Jim

http://www.quicktimeperformance.com/QTEC/index.php

SlingShot

My truck also picks up quite a jolt in power when I let off of the skinny pedal just a little, from the floor. Is it possible that it is going beyond WOT?

BC847

For the sake of reliability, I'm gonna stick to a manually operated cable.
It's a butterfly style from Engineered Diesel.

Could be.


Thanks folks.

dzl_damon

I agree with Jim on the marine application cable. They can be had for relatively decent in all sorts of lengths, throws, etc. They are made for push/pull so no issues reseting your air cut off valve from the cab. YOu could even rig it up with a nifty boat throttle lever!!

For fuel cooling I would suggest the powersteering cooler first like mentioned. Maybe plumb it in parallel with the piping you have with a thermostatic valve at the junction so you wouldn't have to worry about cooling too much in winter. Or just a good ball valve that you'll have to remember to throw when you don't need it.

Where were you thinking of putting it? I was thinking return line, but I want to say timing is based somehow on backpressure of the return line? Maybe adding a bigger pipe or changing restriction (even if it's lower) might pose an issue. I'm curious because I have read about hot fuel reducing efficiency before.

93John

For fuel cooling in the ag world the cooler on a smaller 6 cylinder tractor is only like a 1x4ft. There always plumbed on the return side. They constantly circulate= simple. Even in cold weather it won't affect the fuel gelling any more than the problems already there like bio.