DieselSmith

well, I'm definitely pretty new at this, so I wanna make sure I know everything before I get too deep in this.
I hooked up my boost gauge to the port below the intake manifold, simple so far. Its working good, got it up in the pillar. Now the only question I have is where I can get power? I see two empty fuse ports, one for power windows, the other for power locks. since I don't have either, can I just put a blade or something in that and get power? if so which side.
Now for the pyro. I'm putting on my 16 cm at the same time, so when I drill and tap, it will be easy to clean out the manifold etc. what type of bit is best for drilling that thick cast iron? Also, where to get power for the pyro gauge inside? best ground locations?
Lastly, the 16 cm. What kind of oil is good for presoaking in order to help get the bolts loose? Do I have to pull the downpipe completely off?
that should do it for now, sorry for so much questions but I don't wanna screw anything up. I'll add to this post if I have any further questions, which I probably will!

Thanks in advance,
Cal

haloman

Pb Blaster is good for soaking bolts.
I use power off of the cigarette lighter for all of my little stuff in the cab.

loch

Any sharp bit will work for drilling. When you tap the hole rember not to just run tap all way in, its pipe thread and if ran all way in the probe may be slightly loose. run the tap in about half way and try probe, if it needs more tap a nit farther.

wannadiesel

On the fuse box - use the PW fuse slot, that only has power when the key is "on". The PDL slot is live all the time. Use a test light to check which side is hot, I can't remember off the top of my head. IIRC, it's the right side. That's what I would use for pyro power. For the lights use a fuse tap on fuse 14. That way the lights dim with the rest of the dash lights.

bigragu

What Guru said. Try and look ahead, and maybe mount some red LED lights on your guage podsand just lethe wires to these lights lay coiled up under the dash for future use. I use these to alert me when things come on or are running, such as a tranny cooling fans, water injection, propane fumigation, etc. The red LED's can be had from your local radio shack.

KRB

I like the idea of the LEDs. Good reminders/indicators. Now I just need to think of things to hook them to!

I hooked my Pyro light so that it stays on when the headlights are off. That way I can pull up and turn off my headlights while waiting for it to cool down, then I can shut down and the guage lights go off with the key. The drawback is that they don't dim, so I added green bulb covers to match the dash lights and reduce the brightness.

I have a Painless Wiring Kit that I use to power all my add-ons.

Don't forget to drill to the side of the manifold, not the center. But then again if you have the turbo off you'll see the rib in there anyway.

Have fun!

dpuckett

Question- why do you need power to a boost gauge? Or is this for the light? The pyro I can see getting power if it has an amplifier box, but not if it is a standard pyro.

I found the wire that dims the dash lights, and spliced my gauge lights into it (I think about any orange wire under the dash should accomplish this). Grounded on a ground behind the fues box cover and to the right a little. I used a little extra wire to run things neatly and smoothly, but it looks good.

Daniel

MoparMarv

I agree. Light power for the gauges should be tapped from the dash lights that are controlled by the dimmer. That way if you want you can turn them off when needed or dim them. A little more work but worth it I think. Pyros need power? Mine was in the truck when i got it so I never looked into it. Mine reads even when the truck is off and key is out. Is this thing drawing power when parked?

wannadiesel

Some pyrometers are direct reading and do not need power. What brand is the gauge?

DieselSmith

the gauge is isspro. it comes with all the wiring and stuff, and a circuit box. I'm sure it needs power in order to work.

DBF

My ISSPro pyro doesn't use power to the meter or probe, only to the light.

Regards, DBF

bigragu

you can install the sensor in the pan, but those will not give you your hottest readings. Puff your chest out and dive under the truck and cut into your 1/2" line towards the front of the tranny. This line is exiting and heading towards the front of your truck and back in at the line at the rear of the tranny(both line are on driver's side). I cut into this 1/2" line as it 90'd out of the pan, after the OEM sensor. Use a 1/2" to 1/2" pipe compression to a 1/2" FNPT tee. Bushing down at the tee from 1/2 FNPT to 1/8" FNPT, and there is where you install your sensor. Ground your sensor to one of the #10 sheet metal screw used on the TC cover plate. At the pan where I used to have my sensor, my readings, no matter what, never went over 145. Now, I see temps at 210 when I get stuck in traffic on a hot day. I feel I am better informed, instead of being in denial!

PS- do not forget to invest in a healthy tube of Permatex High Temp thread sealer with teflon for all pipe thread fittings!

tomd

I placed a small roraty switch in my pillar mount so that I have can turn off the lights to the gauges when needed. Made it easy to find a hot wire to tap in to.