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Pyrometer Installation Questions.

Old 08-31-2007, 05:51 AM
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Question Pyrometer Installation Questions.

Hey Y'all. Ive Been reluctant about installing a Pyro. This Is due the fact that I dont want to have to take the manifold off until I swap it out with an after market one. What Im wondering is,what would be the right technique to tap the manifold when still attached to the block? Anyone out there done it themselves? Any tips would be great.
Old 08-31-2007, 06:43 AM
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do a search and you find more reading than you can get through in a day on the subject.

Old 08-31-2007, 07:05 AM
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I did it with the manifold and turbo on the engine. Just start the truck up, start out with a real small drill bit and work your way up to the R drill bit by skipping every two or three drill bits. You'll need a close quarters right angle drill to complete this. Then get out the tap, coat in in any kind of grease that you have and start going to town. You'll also want a pair of gloves as it will start to get very hot. And, make sure the truck is running the entire time. I believe there's an article in DIesel Power mag about doing it this way.
Old 08-31-2007, 08:44 AM
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marked the spot I wanted with a center punch, used a 1/4 inch bit to start the hole, once it was marked I used the bit the tap called for. Drilled to the point I almost went through, then I used a high velocity shop vac to suction the hole as I drilled through.

Once I did that I vacumed out the hole and used a tap that was magnetized, very light tap oil on the threads and with the vacuum going I proceeded to tap the hole about half way up the tap. Remove tap every few turns and clean the metal off it. Once done vacuumed the hole out again and used a clean pen magnet to fish down in the hole. Very little, and very fine metal came out. Looked in the hole with a small flashlight, all clean and I was done.

The truck was not running, I believe the trick was to used the magnetized tap, and keep it clean. Could not belive how much metal I pulled off it after just 1 full turn.
Old 08-31-2007, 08:48 AM
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I have done three now with the manifold on and turbo in place. I see no reason not to follow the instructions above. Just take it easy, grease the tap and clean it every few turns. I found that a very stubby pneumatic drill fits PERFECTLY in between the fender well and manifold. Otherwise, taking out the plastic is easy too.
Old 08-31-2007, 09:01 AM
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I install about one a week. I drill a 1/8" inch hole then a 5/16" hole. I grease each bit with standard grease. keep a shop vac running beside the bit as I drill. I then use a magnet that I got from a metal recycling company that they use to check incoming metal with. It fits in the hole perfectly. When I tap the hole, I use the same grease on the tap, filling the 4 voids on the tap with grease. Be sure to tap 1/4 turn, back up 1/4 turn, tap 1/4 turn and so on. I have broke a tap off once and it wasn't fun. I was in a hurry and didn't back it out like I should have. Every so often I clean the grease from the tap, as it is full of shavings, and refill it. Be sure to check your fitting for depth every so often. If you tap too far it will bottom out. If you have any questions, feel free to pm or call me. I will be glad to help.

Adam
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Old 08-31-2007, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by SolarYellow05
I install about one a week. I drill a 1/8" inch hole then a 5/16" hole. I grease each bit with standard grease. keep a shop vac running beside the bit as I drill. I then use a magnet that I got from a metal recycling company that they use to check incoming metal with. It fits in the hole perfectly. When I tap the hole, I use the same grease on the tap, filling the 4 voids on the tap with grease. Be sure to tap 1/4 turn, back up 1/4 turn, tap 1/4 turn and so on. I have broke a tap off once and it wasn't fun. I was in a hurry and didn't back it out like I should have. Every so often I clean the grease from the tap, as it is full of shavings, and refill it. Be sure to check your fitting for depth every so often. If you tap too far it will bottom out. If you have any questions, feel free to pm or call me. I will be glad to help.

Adam
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This is the first I have heard of bottoming out? I thought you just tap all the way through? Anyone else have input as well? I have never installed one before but probably will be soon on mine.
Old 08-31-2007, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by SolarYellow05
I install about one a week. I drill a 1/8" inch hole then a 5/16" hole. I grease each bit with standard grease. keep a shop vac running beside the bit as I drill. I then use a magnet that I got from a metal recycling company that they use to check incoming metal with. It fits in the hole perfectly. When I tap the hole, I use the same grease on the tap, filling the 4 voids on the tap with grease. Be sure to tap 1/4 turn, back up 1/4 turn, tap 1/4 turn and so on. I have broke a tap off once and it wasn't fun. I was in a hurry and didn't back it out like I should have. Every so often I clean the grease from the tap, as it is full of shavings, and refill it. Be sure to check your fitting for depth every so often. If you tap too far it will bottom out. If you have any questions, feel free to pm or call me. I will be glad to help.

Adam
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Do as mentoined above and when you done, use a small pencil magnet to go down in the hole to pull out the shavings that fell in and you should be good to go. Done many like this.
Old 08-31-2007, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Truckman0097
This is the first I have heard of bottoming out? I thought you just tap all the way through? Anyone else have input as well? I have never installed one before but probably will be soon on mine.
Well, I suppose you could hit a piece of the casting if you were not centered properly?

DO NOT run the tap all the way in, these are tapered pipe threads, you want to be showing at least 4 threads on the tap at your deepest point. I would suggest trying out the pyro fitting once or twice to make sure.
Old 08-31-2007, 09:14 AM
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agree if you have never used a pipe tap I suggest using a piece of scrap metal and doing it on a bench first. If you run the tap all the way in, there is a chance the pyro bung will never tighten.
Old 08-31-2007, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark03Ram
agree if you have never used a pipe tap I suggest using a piece of scrap metal and doing it on a bench first. If you run the tap all the way in, there is a chance the pyro bung will never tighten.
Understandable... great info as always - thanks.
Old 08-31-2007, 09:31 AM
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I used copper anti-seize on my new truck, not sure if it will ever matter. I just had it from another project and figured it couldn't hurt.
Old 08-31-2007, 05:36 PM
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I was having a hard time getting the tap to stay put while i was turning it.... So you ready for this I put the tap in my 18v dewalt drill and went real slow... worked perfect!!! This is the 4th pyro I have installed and wished I would have used the drill on the others. hehehehe
Old 08-31-2007, 07:00 PM
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Dang thats a small tap to chuck up in a drill, think ill stick to the old cresent wrench method! Where do you guys find the small magnets that feed down in there, all iv found were the ones that are mounted on an antinna type of stick.
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