ryanihf250

I searched around on here and looked at the videos on you tube and still have questions before I remove the pump to replace some o rings. Does the motor have to be TDC before I remove the pump so everything will line back up or can i remove it and just lock the pump and motor in where it sits? I have taken some stanandyne pumps off and they have tick marks inside the view window to let know that everything is time.
How would you know that the key for the pump shaft is pointing all the way up before removing the pump so you wont lose it?

dzl_damon

No it doesn't need to be at TDC. Actually if you look closer in those threads I think you'll find about where to put the engine so it's guaranteed to be pointing up. The gear can't come out if the front cover is on, so no worries with that. Even if the pump DID rotate on you while it was out, it will have to be rotated back to get it back on. You will have SOME wiggle room either way since the holes your 3 studs fit into are slotted (for adjusting timing). Then when it's in just line up the tick marks on the side. I would put a dab of loctite in the shaft's key way and put the key in. Let it dry and then put the pump on. Lesser chance of it "mashing" (rotating back, it's round shaped) when wiggling it back in.

Once you get the oil fill tube off and remove the nut, make sure to get the washer!! DOn't let if drop like I did, forcing me to take the front cover off and fish for it with a magnet in the pan!!! I was able to jack my pump off the gear using the grid heater bolts (2) and threading them into the pump gear (2 threaded holes for this reason). I took a small 1"x3" or so peice of metal and made marks for the space between the 2 bolts and drilled them so the bolts pass through. I then put a deep socket on the loosened (but not removed yet) nut and pushed this plate I made on the other end. THEN i threaded the screws into the gear again through the holes of the plate. 1/2 a turn on each screw and it will push the pump off the gear. THe nut on the pump shaft will protect the threads, and prevent the pump from falling out when it pops off the shaft.

Good luck

wannadiesel

A steering wheel puller works pretty well too. Usually less than $15 at the local auto parts store. Like Damon said, use the intake bolts. They are long enough and the correct thread.

To make sure the key is pointing up, remove the nut and then turn the motor to where you want it, then loosen up the pump, lock the pump shaft, and pop the gear loose.

ryanihf250

Appreciate the info! Going to go tackle this afternoon after work.

TIMMY22

I changed a Roosa Master on a JD tractor once and installed it 180* out on accident. Had to take it out, spin the shaft over 1/2 turn, reinstall and she fired off.

In other words, the pump could be installed in 2 different positions even with the match marks aligned.