So I am gonna do it. I am converting a 87 Suburban with a 350 TBI, coupled to a 700R4, then transmitting the power to a open-differential with a 2.73 gearing that has 15" wheels. Here is a pic. Do not mind the bad wax job [yuk]

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/pics/data/500/medium/burbforDTR.JPG

Now here is what is going in

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/pics/data/500/medium/engine-leftside.jpg

Then it will be coupled to a 727 auto and 3.07 rear end. I expect it to be in and running about late Feb-early March. I will attack this ruthlessly.

Now what does SS stand for? Smokin' Suburban. It will be repainted sometime in the far future to the same deep blue or metallic grey. I cannot decide but it is not important right now.

Progress so far is the front clip is off, the engine is just about ready to take out, and my wallet is now about $900 lighter.[coffee] But worth it!

Jon

Ooh, shiny! :cool: :D

Keep us posted. I have been thinking about a Suburban Cummins swap since I got my 12v. Good luck!

Love that idea. I'll have to dig up my old floppies, we did the same thing to an '89 3/4 ton BB 'burban. You have any plans for the rear out of the Suburban?

The rear end? Yep, the Chevy 10 bolt will be replaced by the D71 (or the D70U?) that came with the 727 trans. Of course, part of me wants to see how long it last before the c-clips bust and I have the wheel going out either side [roll] Anyone wanna bet how many burn-outs they will last? :D

Sweet Project. Keep the 2.73 gearing as long as possible.

There is a guy near me that has a suburban that he welded a 6 foot pu box onto the back of and made the frame longer that has a cummins in it. real professional job looks great.

Leave the 10 bolt in for a while. Unless you shockload it alot, it should hold up.

That GM 10bolt in the trucks/suv's will hold 1,000wtq in a rcsb Z71, so I'm sure it will hold up to that mostly stock Cummins for awhile.

Anyone wanna bet how many burn-outs they will last?

20' or 2nd gear... whichever comes first! [roll]

sounds like your gonna have fun, good luck!

Sweet Project! Is the motor a Cummins Reman? Reason for asking is becuse the motor that I am using for my swap was and it was the same desert Tan.

Good Luck and Keep us posted,...

Sweet Project! Is the motor a Cummins Reman? Reason for asking is becuse the motor that I am using for my swap was and it was the same desert Tan.

Good Luck and Keep us posted,...

I believe DieselJon painted it that color as the motor came out of a truck.

20' or 2nd gear... whichever comes first! [roll]
Sounds like the standard 50/50 warranty. 50 feet or 50 seconds, which ever comes first.

Yeah, like haloman said, keep the 2.73's as long as you can.

dieselJon,
What year is that engine? Thats definitely an intercooled setup, pump, lines, vacuum pump are all from an intercooled engine. I guess your using a 727 because its cheap and you already have it.

The engine is what came outta my 93 wreaked truck in my sig. I sold the tranny and transfer case before I thought it out. I am keeping it 2wd.

The paint job is the budget buster job. 3 cans of "Cummins Beige" from O'Reilly's Auto. The top is "Gloss Black" and to "shine" up the valve covers, I used "Chrome" [dummy] I suggest either getting real chrome ones or shining up the aluminum.

I just got the tranny and engine out. I am eating lunch and will be back out in about 1 hour to take pics, clean up a little, then put the front crank shaft seal back on as I boogered the other one when I did the KDP.

ARGH!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I was coming home from O'Reilly's in my car after getting Grey RTV and Red Lok-Tite to do the front crank seal and stopped at a stop sign. Put'er 1st, start letting out the clutch, idiot light for oil pops on, and she gives a lurch and dies!!!!!!

Has oil, but crankshaft won't move. My guess is I got the RPM's a little low, couldn't suck any oil, and blew something up.

Now I am working OT on trying to get this done!

Jon
[verymad]

ARGH!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I was coming home from O'Reilly's in my car after getting Grey RTV and Red Lok-Tite to do the front crank seal and stopped at a stop sign. Put'er 1st, start letting out the clutch, idiot light for oil pops on, and she gives a lurch and dies!!!!!!

Has oil, but crankshaft won't move. My guess is I got the RPM's a little low, couldn't suck any oil, and blew something up.

Now I am working OT on trying to get this done!

Jon
[verymad]

Ouch, kick the tires a few times, you'll feel better. [director]

Well today I didn't do anything to it. Read here for a little info as to why:

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/showthread.php?t=189552

What I am doing is attaching the tranny to the motor and putting it in as one piece to get everything lined up but to do that I need the flex pplate bolts and the TC bolts to bolt everything together. And to get the needed bolts from the local tranny shop, I need to drive about 20 miles on black ice to get there. [nonono] Not today.

Now that I have no running vehicles in my name, my bro is letting me use his 86 F250 6.9L diesel. It is ok but nothing like the Cummins :(

And work is asking for volunteers to be laid off for a week at a time. I am putting my name in as I have enough money, then I would have the time to get a lot done.

Progress is slow.

Jon

Did a lot today! And I have some pics too! :D

I lowered the engine/tranny combo into the engine bay. I looked and it looked like I could get the Dodges mounts where the old 350 mounts were. So I wrestled it near them and couldn't move them any more. It was caught some where. The turbo was hitting the the wheel wells. So I rotated it about 90-100*. Now I saw that the old mounted places needed to be moved forward about 2". And I was right! I took off the old plates wher the mounts were connected and used a uni-bit to enlarge the 1/2" holes to 9/16". The old Chevy mounts were 4 in a rectangle. I enlarged the bottom front ones and left it loose as I lowered the engine into the bay. To say that it went in easy would be saying that you can shove a square peg into a round hole. Needs a little trimming to get in.

Driver side

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/Cummins%20Suburban%20Build/IMG_3890.jpg

Passenger side

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/Cummins%20Suburban%20Build/IMG_3891.jpg

As you can see, it isn't bolted yet. But I wanted to make sure the steering didn't get bound up in it. With it bolted like this, I now have room to work with around the firewall AND the AC box!

Firewall

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/Cummins%20Suburban%20Build/IMG_3893.jpg

AC Box. Looks are deceiving as I hae about 6" straight back to work with and around 2"-3" around the AC. I need some heat wrap.

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/Cummins%20Suburban%20Build/IMG_3894.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/Cummins%20Suburban%20Build/IMG_3892.jpg

And so you can see how it sits in the bay....
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/Cummins%20Suburban%20Build/IMG_3888.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/Cummins%20Suburban%20Build/IMG_3889.jpg

Thats all for now. I am pumped to say the least!

Jon

Looks awesome Jon! Cant wait to see thefinished burb!

looks like that dodge cross member was ment to be between those Chevy frame rails. Should be a sweet ride when its done!

Keep up the good work. I am already thinking about a small cummins in my Blazer. lol

Check out turbos10's conversion.. His engine was out of a F700 ford.. but I think the manifold was about the same as a 3rd gen manifold.. it moved the turbo back, and down.. looks like it might help you a little..
looking good.. lots of work...

Edit.. I found a pic of his conversion.. he has a few more in his gallery...

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/pics/data/500/medium/CIMG0814.JPG

pwrtripl1, those are the Chevy cross-members but Dodge rubber mounts. The Dodge cross-member is 30" between the frame rails, mounting on the insdie of the rails while the Chevy is 28" between the rails and it mounts to the top of the rails. Does that make sense?

Thanks all!

JDGnut, I might have to look into one of those 3rd Gen manifolds, thay look like they will fit.

Jon

JDGnut, I might have to look into one of those 3rd Gen manifolds, thay look like they will fit.

Jon

The 3rd gen manifold is the way to go. It will put the turbo close to the frame and tight to the engine. I have aftermarket A/C on mine so it was not a concern on mine, but on yours I would definately build a heat shield. I saw one of these conversions that melted the A/C box really fast with the high mount.

Let me know if you have any questions. I have been there and done that on that chassis. If you plan on running a fan, you will need the engine as far back as you can get it. I really dont think you can run an I/C, A/C with a regular fan unless you "adjust" the firewall. Mine is a about 2" off the fire wall and there is only room for two small strategicly placed electric fan. It is so tight I have to pull the oil filler and belt off to get the radiator out with the fans on it.

The thing with my conversion is it is 2wd and I do not want a 4x4. I will try to keep the AC but if it has to go, then it goes. I can move it back about another 1"-1.5" BUT I will then worry about vibrations through the firewall. The engine is as low as it can go as I modified the mounts to lower it about 2" more. Just so that you can fit about 2 fingers width between the oil pan and the 2wd mounts.

Now to look for a 3rd Gen manifold.

Jon

Anything new Jon?

it's easier to change the oil filter on turbo10's conversion than it is on my factory 98 Dodge- sombody needs paid for doing some r&d for dodge;)

I am waiting for the check to get to a member and then I will have a 3rd Gen manifold :D

Jon

it's easier to change the oil filter on turbo10's conversion than it is on my factory 98 Dodge- sombody needs paid for doing some r&d for dodge;)

Hehe...it is pretty easy to work on. The ford setup on this engine is like the "freightliner" package. Ford cummins in a chevy chassis....hmmmm :D[coffee]

The thing with my conversion is it is 2wd and I do not want a 4x4. I will try to keep the AC but if it has to go, then it goes. I can move it back about another 1"-1.5" BUT I will then worry about vibrations through the firewall. The engine is as low as it can go as I modified the mounts to lower it about 2" more. Just so that you can fit about 2 fingers width between the oil pan and the 2wd mounts.

Now to look for a 3rd Gen manifold.

Jon

Please take picture of the new manifold installed, I'm curious of how tight it is going to be with the ac, also I don't see the ac compressor in the photo, I have read you have to notch the frame rails to fit it in. And are you going to box in the fram rails? Thanks, and it looks great in that chev.

The previous truck doesn't have AC, the old ac from the 350 will be mounted somewhere. But I am waiting for the manifold, and then to put everything in and get it running. Priorities.

Jon

How comes it?

Not much. been around 0-20* here

Jon

If you end up down here youll love it....89* monday afternoon, 24* at 5:30 this morning....Gotta love Texas!!!

Well, yesterday, I got the old exhaust system completely off. I set the engine into some new bracket hole to set it lower, went to raise it up to adjust it, and the ram on the hoist wont go up [verymad] 1 more thing to go wrong. Good thing I have a 2t come-along and a big 12" I-beam to use.

3rd Gen manifold is on its way as of yesterday. Thanks sliqwil!

Jon

I do not know what happen to my last post but I got the 3rd gen manifold on and it fits. I ported it a little to match the old square exhaust ports.


Well, Saturday I put the front crank seal on. No more leaks hopefully. I started cutting up the front clip to hold the stock 93 Dodge radiator. Fits nicely now. I tried to take the radiator fan off but it wasn't budging with a 12 or 14" crescent wrench.

Monday I finished the cutting of the front clip. Set it in place and went to O'Reillys after work to get a fan clutch wrench repair set thingy...Whatever it is called. I heated the nut up and was turning it CW. Nothing. Kept slipping the wrench off and busting my knuckles. I was using a 20oz hammer too! Well here comes my bro from work and looks at what I am doing. He asks if I tried using the 3" exhaust pipe that is about 5ft long[dummy] There it goes, 2 hrs of busting knuckles and in 30 secs it was off.[roll]

Well, as I was doing this, I found the right wire and used the battery to connect directly to the old in-tank fuel pump for the TBI 350. I drained all 15 gallons of gas and gave it to my parents. They needed it and paid for rent a bit. :D

Ok, I got the belt on, some wires connected. I put in 3 gallons of oil. I thought that since it sat for about 9 months, I could turn it over with out it firing up. So it goes crank....crank.....VRRROOOMMM!!!!! I was like :o :D :o :D Crap! I forgot the IP held some fuel! No turbo, no exhaust, just the manifold. LOUD! I jump out and pull the shut down lever. Whew! Nothing broke.

So now, the chevy fuel pump goes into the LP a about 10 psi and I also used the stock chevy return line. All I have to do now is get the bolts for the torque converter tightened, turbo on, IC on, fill the radiator, figure driveshaft lenghts and get my dash wired up. You know the the Equus gauges that you buy at parts stores fit nicely into the old dash and gives it a classy look for pennies on the dollar? http://www.iequus.com/product_info.php?product_id=7200&category_id=100_110 Now the 3 gauge pod set is going to hold the Boost, tranny temp, and oil temp gauges. The pyro goes where the optional analog clock would go on the dash. I will get a pic soon

That is what is going on now.

Jon

Sounds very nice! Great progress!

If you are looking, I have a Steel 2" cowl induction hood for sale off my Suburban. Post some pics man.

We are having computer problems here. I lost quite a few pics that I took. The hard drive crashed :(

ARe you alive??????

BUSY!!! We have had computer crashes, down internet (wireless), new GF, planning for a addition on my parents house, dealing with my druggy cousins kids and trying to show them how to really live as their mom "tries" to get her life back together. GRRR! But the D70 rear is going in as soon as I get the oxy/acetylene tanks to help with the nuts on the U-bolts. It is in and running, just need to swap the rear-ends and get the drive shafts done. :D

Jon

I got the D70U under the Burb now :D The D70 spring mounts are in the exact location for the springs on the Burb. I am stoked!

Pics coming very soon.

So how is this coming along?!?!

I too wanna see!!!

Lemme take some pics today and upload them to the photobucket account.

The driveshaft from the 93 Ext cab 4x4 250 is about 4" too long. I got everything else pretty much done....Well, the major stuff :D All the little minor stuff is coming soon

Jon

at least you dont have ot buy tube for the drive shaft.
you can just shorten the one you got.

Ok here are the Pics.

This is the mount for the tranny. The old one had 2 wings on either side the the other guy cut off instead of unbolting the tranny. So I ground off the little bit left, welded on a 1/2" bolt and a 2" piece of pipe we had lying around.

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/Cummins%20Suburban%20Build/IMG_3900.jpg

Here it is bolted into the STOCK chevy 700R4 Crossmember.

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/Cummins%20Suburban%20Build/PICT0072.jpg

Here is my custom dash setup. The old way was like a shield going to the gauges. So since 2" gauges fit almost perfectly with a little bit of plastic trimming, here is the oil, water temp, and voltmeter in the stock locations but with some classy looks. The Stewart Warner pyro is where there was a blank space. That space was for the optional Quartz analog clock. So since the Speedo and fuel gauges just didnt look quite right, I got them too. The speedo is going in soon, the new fuel gauge is going into a 3 pod setup that the oil, water, voltmeter came in. The other spots are going to be for Boost and tranny temp. The old fuel gauge is going to have a tach put into it. The dash is just setting there for now.

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/Cummins%20Suburban%20Build/PICT0069.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/Cummins%20Suburban%20Build/PICT0070.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/Cummins%20Suburban%20Build/PICT0071.jpg

Engine bay pics. I am ditching the AC system. I also notice I need a hood scoop :D

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/Cummins%20Suburban%20Build/PICT0067.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/Cummins%20Suburban%20Build/PICT0065.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/Cummins%20Suburban%20Build/PICT0075.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/Cummins%20Suburban%20Build/PICT0076.jpg

Now here is something I ran into. The MC was in the way of the up pipe from the IC to the mouth of the intake. So I went to my old machine shop, and in trade for some labor, he mad this up for me. He called me and said he made a mistake, he didn't notice the tapped hole. I told him that was quite alright, perfect place for a water injection spot [whistle] But when I originally had it made, I thought the block itself was tall enough. NOPE! [dummy] Well, it just so happened that the up pipe from IC the the intake is just right to go from the turbo to the intake [coffee] Well, water injection is coming. Or maybe Nox???

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/Cummins%20Suburban%20Build/PICT0073.jpg

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/Cummins%20Suburban%20Build/PICT0065.jpg

Here is what is going to cool the water temps. The one is going to be on a thermostat switch while the other is going to be on a flip switch in the cab. The one on the right is from a 90 Dodge Spirit and the one on the left is from a 97 Saturn SC1. The Saturns needs a bit of trimming but the Spirits covers half of the rad and will clip on nicely.

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/Cummins%20Suburban%20Build/PICT0066.jpg

And the rearend.

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/Cummins%20Suburban%20Build/PICT0064.jpg

I didn't take pics from underneath as it really isn't finished. I will be putting new drums, shoes, cylinders, lines for the rear. I upgraded the 3/4ton 2-1/2" shoes to the 1tons 3" setup.

HTH,

Jon

Jon, did you find the 3/4 ton front stuff yet?

I still have a cheap place to get the whole setup if you need them.

Looks like you are getting close. I noticed that you went ahead and opened up the core support to make more room. That is a good idea. Mine is a total pain to work on the front of the engine. I have to use a 24" pry bar from the bottom to loosen the tensioner since a wrench hits the fan.

It does look like the engine is sitting pretty high. You may have to fabricate your own cowl. I did this before from two hoods on an S-10. I can give you a link to pics, as it took me two trys(yes three hoods) to get it right. It is not as straight forward as you might think.

Have fun.

Chris

Pat, I have the stuff, just have to go get them. I do not know what I am going to do with it. I have look at doing airbags in the front....

Chris, I would appreciate the link. The engine sits high because it only has about 1" of clearance between the pan and engine cross member. Being it is 2wd, the cross member is also a integral part of the front frame.

I am thinking of making it a manual shift auto with a ratcheting shifter....Any ideas guys??

Jon

The only online pics I could find(thought I had more) are here in this journal:

http://www.hotrodders.com/projects/008/01.html

The first thing you have to do is bolt or weld bracing to keep the hood at its original width and shape at the back. I would support it at the mount and at the point you plan to make the cowl. This has to be very strong so there is no pulling when you cut and mod the hood. The next thing is to cut the hood at the desired width from the back to the front. You can then weld some bracing to hold it to the cowl height you want. Next you have to make the fillers to make the cowl upright section. These will need to be butt welded in place so you dont have a ton of filling to do. It will take some time to get them just right, but take that time. The last thing is that you will need to extend the rear of the cowl because when you pull up the center it will pull the back section forward. I used the back of another hood for this so you get a very factory look and you can extend the center hood rib so it looks right. This will again need to be butt welded perfectly flat so that you dont have a mess. You will need to spot weld bouncing all around so you dont warp the sheet metal.

I would say you could just buy a cowl hood easier, but you have the same problem I did in that you would have to heavily modify the aftermarket cowl hood to clear everything since they dont really give you that much more room unless you get a big fiberglass hood which will not be great with the diesel vibration and will cost you a mint for a good one. Using the above plan you can do it for nothing but some time and the price of one more junk yard hood. All you really need from the junk hood is a good rear section and some sheetmetal for the fillers. I was on a budget for that project, so a $450 hood did not fit.

[QUOTE=turbos10;2103425]The only online pics I could find(thought I had more) are here in this journal:

http://www.hotrodders.com/projects/008/01.html

Wow, you are amazing and so are your trucks!:cool:

[QUOTE=turbos10;2103425]The only online pics I could find(thought I had more) are here in this journal:

http://www.hotrodders.com/projects/008/01.html

Wow, you are amazing and so are your trucks!:cool:

[redface]....heh...well, I dont know about amazing, but I like my junk.

Ok, I got the driveshaft ($50 to have it shortened and perfectly balanced. No weights! :cool:) on and filled it with fluid only to find the tranny doesn't pump at all :( Need a new tranny so I was thinking of either forking $1300 over for a new tranny or $1100 for a '72 Honda CL 175??? Any suggestions?

Jon

thats too much for a 72 cl175, i think

Ok, so I ruined the tranny [dummy] Now I am going to take it out, put some goodies into it, get a better TC, when I get the money. A local builder that does A+++ work said they would do the build up for $400-$600 if I get the parts. So lets see, about $400-$500 for goodies, $600 for them to build it, $650 for a Gorend Bro's TC. Yep, about 2 more months before I have the money for all of it.... :( But in the mean time, I completely gutted the firewall of all unnessecary wiring crap. Meaning, everything but the speaker wires :D I am going to make my own fuse block and wire everything up to that and relays. I have 3 useless vehicles that I can get relays and fuses from.

Also, since I wont be using the AC anymore, I am going to wire the rear AC High/Off/Low switch for something. Any ideas?

Jon

If you can use the AC switch for some aux lighting up front, it would kinda give you high and low beams. Just my 2 cents.

Ok, so I got everything to wire up the Burb. Now I am thinking about 3 steps ahead here. I know what wheels and tires I am getting, I am going to have the tranny get a standard rebuild, and I am trying to decide a good paint scheme.

I am wanting to keep the chrome window shades (like bug deflectors??), ditching the roof rack and the trim. I am putting a chrome billet grille in and polishing the door handles and mirrors to a shiny finish. Now my question would be, what paint job?

I am thinking from the trim down a burnt orange color and from that point up, dark blue. Kinda like the Bears? [laugh]

It is a faded dark blue right now. No badging planned right now.

The wheels are Eagle Alloys 102's. I am going to get 265/70/R16's on them too!

http://www.americaneaglewheel.com/images/categories/102_wcap.jpg

Any feed back?

I like that style wheel on these old trucks. The wheels I have are very similiar but a kindof off brand I got at a local tire store. They were less than half the cost of the name brands.

You still alive Jon?

Barely.... [laugh] I am working on many things and the Burb has taken a back seat....

I am looking to propose in the next couple of weeks (Got the ring :D ), helping Mom and Dad with the addition..... Work..... UGH!!!!

OH!! I took a week long vacation that ended up in me blowing my Grandpa's 2003 Bass boat motor up..... :o

Jon

:o
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.
.
.
.
:o:o:o

Has it been that long since I last posted here???

Ok. The Burb got moved to my future in-laws as 1) I moved out and Dad needs garage space 2) I am at her house more than at home... Pretty much all the time 3) I need to plan a wedding while needing some free time.

Here is a pic....

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/Cummins%20Suburban%20Build/Burbturned.jpg

The tranny is trashed. Oh darn it! I guess it needs better internals....

Time to get a engine hoist and pull the engine/tranny combo and fix the tranny while modifiying the engine doghouse for a better fit of the exhaust.

Jon