I bought a Smarty Jr from KLM largely becuase of this site. I used it to update
the 2005 HPCR Cummins diesel I have installed in my 1968 Ford F250 and
now the truck won't even crank - completely dead. I have had several conversations with KLM and some email with MADS. Here are the details.

1. The truck was running fine before I programmed it, I had driven it
that morning.
2. It has fuel.
3. The batteries are charged - just to make sure I put them on a charger
and they are fully charged.

The truck will not crank - there is no response to the key except for a
few relays clicking - but I have not been able to determine if the
starter solenoid is clicking or not.

I programmed it to program 2 and then back to stock and the truck won't
start in either case.

The PCM was originally reprogrammed to remove the VATs.

When I explained all this to MADS they said the following:

When Smarty is returned to stock the real stock software is used. If you see the message "Update done" on Smarty display, the ECM has been correctly programmed.
I don't know the reason of the problem in your truck but it cannot be the software loaded in the ECM. It should be an electrical problem.

I have a couple of questions.

When programming, the Smarty instructs you to turn the key off at
several points - but turning the key off turns off the Smarty and it does not finish the updating upon restart. KLM could not explain this.

There seems to be two possibilities 1. A program is installed and for an unknown reason is refusing to start the truck. or 2. The program is not installed correctly and the ECM is not operating.

What is the best way to debug this, is there a signal I can look for at either key on or crank that will tell me if the ECM is up and running?

Any help would be appreciated.

Peter

The Smarty should turn on when you plug it in , whether the ignition is off with no key or on. And when you cycle the key on and off the Smarty should not turn off. If yours is turning off you either have a wiring issue with the port or a bum Smarty. My guess is its the port.

That's makes sense to me - so the port is always hot? The ECM is always running? I'll got take a look at the wiring. I assume it just had a connector on the other end that plugged into the harness, but perhaps...

Ok, one thought, is the Smarty expecting to get power from the ODBII port? Is there a +12 that is supposed to be BAT that is keyed?

Peter

Key off, plug in the Smarty or my BDDL and the programmer has power, just like Pauly said...[coffee]

OK, so I changed the +12 supplied to the OBDii from keyed to BAT and the Smarty behaves like it should now.

I loaded program 2 - no love.
I loaded stock - no love.

What next?

Peter

I was just getting ready to order a smarty jr. today. glad I decided to come here first.

Get a voltmeter/test light and see if you are getting power to the starter solenoid when the key is turned and go from there.

4x4Freak,

Thanks - Two basic questions.

1. Is the starting solenoid powered by the key or via the ECM?
2. I'm used to the Ford setup up where is the starter solenoid on this engine - on the starter or mounted somewhere else? If it's on top of the starter I'm unhappy as it is almost impossible to get there.

Peter

I was just getting ready to order a smarty jr. today. glad I decided to come here first.

He has a transplanted motor from a 05 into a 68... that is probably the reason for the hicup. I wouldnt worry... Smarty Jr is GREAT!!!



I was hoping the OBDII wiring issue would fix it, too bad... Have you checked fuses? It seems really odd it wont crank, I cant imagine its a smarty issue, but??

I'm starting to track down the fuses and solenoids right now. They left me no map of what's where so I'm kind of doing this blind.

Peter

sounds like fun... at least youll learn your truck... post some pics when you can.. sounds like a sweet setup.

OK, I've attached an image of the relays they left me with. I've sent to AutoWorld as well, but I won't hear from them in a few days. If anyone recognized these let me know.

1 & 2 take power to a do-dabber where the intake meets the heat - intake heater?

3 I haven't figured out

The input to 5 looks like the original crank signal (and the relay might be the original starting relay), but it runs through relay 4. Which is confusing. The yellow wire you see leaving 5 runs down to the starter.

As soo as I get someone to operate the key while I use the voltmeter hopefully I'll figure out one of these is toast.

Peter

I shorted the starting solenoid from the battery and it started right up (with the key on) so Smarty is not the issue - something between the key and the starting solenoid - probably the 40 year old ingition switch.

Peter

Good to hear it... now lets see pics of the whole setup... i have always wanted a cummins in a 76 250 CC SB...

Here are a few photos.

I tracked it down to the neutral saftey switch. Bypassed that and its running for now.

Thanks for all the help.

Peter

Hey Peter, that appears to be a great looking truck. Can you give us any more information on it? Who did the conversion, how much invested, etc.? And please post a pic from the outside!

It was done by AutoWorld in Montana. It cost so much that I am embarrased to say, but north of $20k. Had I known....

It's a 2005 HPCR Cummins out of a wrecked Dodge truck with a 48RE behind it controlled by an ATS controller.

Peter

It was done by AutoWorld in Montana. It cost so much that I am embarrased to say, but north of $20k. Had I known....

It's a 2005 HPCR Cummins out of a wrecked Dodge truck with a 48RE behind it controlled by an ATS controller.

Peter



That is a fantastic truck, Peter, no matter what it cost! I'd be stoked to drive that every day!

I love it... great looking truck.

But whats with the cute little exhaust?

Thanks all,

The picture of the exterior is from before the conversion - that's one side of a dual exhaust for a V8.

Anybody want to try to help me figure out why it leans 1/2 to the left on essentially brand new springs?

Peter

Anybody want to try to help me figure out why it leans 1/2 to the left on essentially brand new springs?

Peter

Dual optimas, plus driver, plus fuel tank, all on the drivers side?

Fuel tank is centered. I can't imagine that the optimas are heavy enough to depress both driver's side springs 1/2". I was wondering if the transport company really overtightened the drivers side on the transport truck - could being overtightened for 3 days have done it? The springs have less than 5,000 miles on them.

Peter

Is it binding up at all on the rear springs? I have seen where the right rear spring on my old 1st gen was binding up upon lifting 4" which caused my drivers front left to dip down a little. Upond fixing, all was better.

GREAT looking truck. Best of both worlds.

I've seen brand new trucks lean to one side or the other. I doubt its anything in particular, just a combination of.....well, everything!

Here's a flash back. That truck reminds me of the truck Charles Bronson drove in the movie Mr. Myjestic least wise the color. Anybody remember that movie? Ford actually made a commercial from scenes of that movie. It was a half ton 2 wheel drive. But I mean they beat the crap out of that truck.... Anyway nice truck....

Bruce