tfdcruiser

Hey all I am pretty new to this forum and have gotten alot of great info so thanks, infact I haven't really needed to post until now. My question is, is there something in the area of the lift pump and breather tube that could leak oil other than the above mentioned items. I am getting a sheen of oil on the side of the motor and at first glance it appears to be the lift pump gasket but closer inspection looks as if it could be coming from higher up. It is not a steady leak but just a sheen that does eventually accumulate and drip from the bottom of the engine. I was wondering what is behind the insulation material in that area is there a plug or cover of some sort? If there is nothing else in that area I may go ahead and replace the pump and gasket to the tubular style lift pump anyway. Oh by the way my rig is a 93 1 ton dually. Thanks, alot.

wannadiesel

I'd suspect the fuel heater gasket.

tfdcruiser

thanks but that was leaking earlier and I replaced it and the filter area has been dry since. That leak was pretty apparent this one just sort of starts out as a sheen on the side of the block next to the lift pump and eventually becomes a drip at the bottom of the motor. besides the pump and the breather tube is there anything else in the vicinity that could leak?

wannadiesel

Only the tappet cover. The injection pump has to come off to replace the gasket.

dpuckett

I've also had a leaking cam plug (pull tranny for that fix) do the same thing, only more to the rear. ALso looks like a rear main leak. I have replaced 3 tappet cover gaskets. Not bad once you get the injector lines out of the way. Last one I left the pump on the engine.

Daniel

tfdcruiser

so the tappet cover runs the whole side of the motor , huh? like the old stovebolt chevy 235' s I pressume. I take it the cover is under the insulation material. Is it oddly shaped or just rectangular? I highly suspect this as leaking towards the rear. Is there any other maintenance i should do while I am in there and is it possible to do it with the IP pump in place since I'm not real keen on resetting them. I've been chasing leaks on this thing like the director of the CIA, everytime I neutralize one another one pops up.

Jim Lane

It sounds like the leak is coming from the side cover or Tappet cover. There is a rectangular gasket behind the stamped metal cover. It is then covered by a sound deadening cover.

Unfortunately you do have to remove the VE pump to get to them but it is not so bad if you have the proper tools.

When you put it back together pay attention to the weatherhead “T” fitting on the fuel return line at the back of the block, there is a small rubber furrel that may start leaking after it is disturbed.
It is an easy fix and it can be gotten at any hydraulic supply or probably D.C. but that I am not sure of.

Other cautions are to be careful and retract the timing pin from the timing gear and don’t be tempted to not reinstall the sound deadening cover, it really does cut down on the tappet clatter.

I replaced mine last year and I have more pictures in my gallery.

Before you start, we can tell you the basic procedure and which tools you are going to need.

Also while the VE pump is out you might want to accidently massage the seals on the fuel screws so that they might fall off when you put it back on.

Here are some shots of mine.







The weatherhead fitting I am refering to is just to the lower left of the rear lifting eye.





Hope this will be of some help.
Jim

dpuckett

How in the WORLD did you get the pump off without removing the lines?

Jim Lane

What I did was to rotate the top of the pump a bit to the fender (timing) so the connections were in between the lines.



There was enough "spring" to the lines that I was able to move it to the rear to clear the 3 mounting bolts and then it simply came out.

I did not really want to mess with disconnecting the injector lines if I didn’t have to and then I would have had to bleed all of the injectors

Although it was a lot easier than it was on my old 6.2 with the Roosa-Master pump.
Jim

tfdcruiser

man thanks alot for all the great pics. I am pretty certain now that it is the rear of the tappet cover leaking. I am pretty well equipped (and I have alot of tools) but what special tools may I need. I take it the ip pump will have to be retimed does that require anything special. Thanks again for all the help.

wannadiesel

No, the pump doesn't need to be retimed. Just make a match mark between the pump and the timing case so you can put it back right where it was. The shaft has a keyway.

You will need a 13 mm "S" wrench or similar tool to get the lower injection pump nut loose. 17 mm crowfoot tubing wrenches are nice to have, too.

Jim Lane

Before you remove the nut from the timing gear I stuffed a rag down the front of the timing cover so there was no way I would loose the nut or washer into the case. Just be sure you remove it when you are finished, leave a tail hanging out.



Also to remove the pump you will need a gear puller or a hefty steering wheel puller. You can use the 2 long bolts removed from the grid heaters as the anchor bolts if I remember correctly.

When you are using the puller sometimes it seems like it is not going to come off but it will, a good rap to the puller will help and then it will "pop".

Like Dave said, be sure to index the pump to the cover so it can be returned to its original location.

And make sure you retract the timing pin so you don’t shear it off for next time.
Jim

tfdcruiser

Awsome tips thank you very much I am much less intimidated now. I still have to kill the KDP is this something I should do at the same time since everything is apart? Also are there holes in the timing gear to bolt a steering wheel puller to?

Jim Lane

Yes there are 2 threaded holes in the timing gear for you to screw the puller bolts into.
You can see them in the picture below.



I also pulled the timing pin and got it all cleaned up so it works smoothly for next time.

Jim

tfdcruiser

Is that the gasket in the picture with "Front" stamped on it, it looks as if the one in the picture has cracks visible around it.