picking up new to me 12'er
11-19-2006, 09:30 PM
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picking up new to me 12'er
I just sold my 2000 24v and suffered major CTD withdrawl,,,I went on the hunt and found a 97 2500 RC 4X4 stick 88,000mi and am picking it up tuesday
Needless to say I cant sleep as I have missed my 93 ctd since I sold it. I'm hoping to have a 4" exhaust before the truck arives and I'll change it as the turkey cooks. But I am really hoping for some input on what I can do right away for some power? Gages will be ordered as soon as I can decide what I want.
also may be on the hunt for a grey interior as the camel one in this truck shows wayyyyyyy to much dirt.
Thanks, Rich in CT
Needless to say I cant sleep as I have missed my 93 ctd since I sold it. I'm hoping to have a 4" exhaust before the truck arives and I'll change it as the turkey cooks. But I am really hoping for some input on what I can do right away for some power? Gages will be ordered as soon as I can decide what I want. also may be on the hunt for a grey interior as the camel one in this truck shows wayyyyyyy to much dirt.
Thanks, Rich in CT
11-19-2006, 09:54 PM
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Welcome to the 12-valve world! 
Two things every 12-valve should have:
1) KDP fix.
2) Timing advanced.
Beyond that, get the gauges first. Then you can buy, or grind your own, cam plate, and get a Governor Spring Kit (GSK), or again make your own. With the timing advanced, a plate, and a GSK, you'll have a whole new truck.
Do a search here and you'll find tons of info on these mods.
Two things every 12-valve should have:
1) KDP fix.
2) Timing advanced.
Beyond that, get the gauges first. Then you can buy, or grind your own, cam plate, and get a Governor Spring Kit (GSK), or again make your own. With the timing advanced, a plate, and a GSK, you'll have a whole new truck.
Do a search here and you'll find tons of info on these mods.
11-19-2006, 10:23 PM
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To get more power out of your truck the first and foremost investment is a good set of gauges. These are a must anytime that you are adding more fuel to your mix. At the very least a Pyro, a boost gauge is really nice to have, and if you have an auto, a tranny temperature gauge as well.
A governor spring kit, referred to as a GSK is a wonderful investment that widens your normally narrow power band from the 12 valve engine and allows you to fuel hard to at least 3200 RPMS or so, before it starts to defuel, this is all dependant on your governor arm adjustment and your plate positioning.
A Torque, or fuel plate should come next. NO one really follows the plate guide anymore and the most popular plates nowadays are 100, 10 and a zero plate
This is a 100 plate right here...
More commonly referred to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 11, 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flat plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and you loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flat, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real pain to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...
The other tricky bolt is the one (if you look down from the drivers side) behind the Fuel shutdown solenoid (electronic hooked up deal that bolts in front of the injector pump, easily removed with in my case an 8mm (and most should be too) socket and pull out the two bolts. when you undo those you will notice that there is one in the back that is holding the housing, you can just loosen the one in the rear using a deep 8 mm socket and just move the shutdown solenoid out of the way, (downward) and then you can get to the plate..
When you are in there its simple, you just remove the stock plate and put the other plate in place of that one. NOTICE you have some play here. Sliding it forward of the stock position will net you more power, sliding it back will reduce the power.
Now put it back together and you are done. Installation is simply the reverse of removing it. Having a magnetic tip screwdriver REALLY HELPS. As you are putting the AFC housing back on you will notice that you can also slide it forward and backwards a bit as well, sliding it forward increases the low end fueling as well.
To increase the boost you will usually have to plug the wastegate line, it is the one that goes to the wastegate from the back of the AFC housing, you can get a boost elbow from many different vendors to increase the boost, or some just disconnect the line and plug it by clamping a screw in the end of the hose to keep anything from going in the hose.
Install time, for a newbie, well it will take you about a couple of hours at most. Your only real problem might be that break off screw, especially if your truck is stock, However, nothing a good strong screwdriver and some persuasion cannot take care of.
Which plate is right for you? A 10 is generally considered the best all around plate, many guys run a 100 for a little more to end, and guys that drag race and such tend to like the really heavy low end fueling of the zero plate.
There is no one setup that works for everyone, you may have to make some adjustments to the plate, AFC position, or starwheel to get it set to your liking and needs as far as power, responsiveness, and smoke.
Either ways, you are going to need a clutch or tranny work if its an auto. And your EGTs will tell you when you need an intake and exhaust to help keep the temps down. Neither of them will gain you power alone, but they can help you get more from the fuel that you already have.
I sourced a lot of this from Rick (TXdiesel007) (thanks for the info bud) I cleand it up a little bit one night I couldn't sleep.
And do the KDP ASAP
A governor spring kit, referred to as a GSK is a wonderful investment that widens your normally narrow power band from the 12 valve engine and allows you to fuel hard to at least 3200 RPMS or so, before it starts to defuel, this is all dependant on your governor arm adjustment and your plate positioning.
A Torque, or fuel plate should come next. NO one really follows the plate guide anymore and the most popular plates nowadays are 100, 10 and a zero plate
This is a 100 plate right here...
More commonly referred to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 11, 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flat plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and you loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flat, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real pain to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...
The other tricky bolt is the one (if you look down from the drivers side) behind the Fuel shutdown solenoid (electronic hooked up deal that bolts in front of the injector pump, easily removed with in my case an 8mm (and most should be too) socket and pull out the two bolts. when you undo those you will notice that there is one in the back that is holding the housing, you can just loosen the one in the rear using a deep 8 mm socket and just move the shutdown solenoid out of the way, (downward) and then you can get to the plate..
When you are in there its simple, you just remove the stock plate and put the other plate in place of that one. NOTICE you have some play here. Sliding it forward of the stock position will net you more power, sliding it back will reduce the power.
Now put it back together and you are done. Installation is simply the reverse of removing it. Having a magnetic tip screwdriver REALLY HELPS. As you are putting the AFC housing back on you will notice that you can also slide it forward and backwards a bit as well, sliding it forward increases the low end fueling as well.
To increase the boost you will usually have to plug the wastegate line, it is the one that goes to the wastegate from the back of the AFC housing, you can get a boost elbow from many different vendors to increase the boost, or some just disconnect the line and plug it by clamping a screw in the end of the hose to keep anything from going in the hose.
Install time, for a newbie, well it will take you about a couple of hours at most. Your only real problem might be that break off screw, especially if your truck is stock, However, nothing a good strong screwdriver and some persuasion cannot take care of.
Which plate is right for you? A 10 is generally considered the best all around plate, many guys run a 100 for a little more to end, and guys that drag race and such tend to like the really heavy low end fueling of the zero plate.
There is no one setup that works for everyone, you may have to make some adjustments to the plate, AFC position, or starwheel to get it set to your liking and needs as far as power, responsiveness, and smoke.
Either ways, you are going to need a clutch or tranny work if its an auto. And your EGTs will tell you when you need an intake and exhaust to help keep the temps down. Neither of them will gain you power alone, but they can help you get more from the fuel that you already have.
I sourced a lot of this from Rick (TXdiesel007) (thanks for the info bud
) I cleand it up a little bit one night I couldn't sleep.And do the KDP ASAP
11-19-2006, 11:05 PM
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Can I ask who sells the 100's and 0's? Everything I seem to find for sale ranges from 10 to 4. I just bought a 95 that I pick up Tuesday. I'd like to put a fueling plate on, and have read that anything past 230/605 is Taboo. Though, I do plan on a valve body and a controller for lockup. What plate would be good for me with those two transmission mods?
Thanks guys!
Shawn
Thanks guys!
Shawn
11-19-2006, 11:08 PM
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awesome info so far,,,,,thank you.
I will have the guages next week just trying to decide if I want 2 or 3 pyro, boost and not sure if I need fuel press. coming from the 24v side I'm familiar with needing a new lift pump every 30k
I already have the BHAF and like in the orig post will have exhaust on it this week with guages to follow. former truck had injectors , edge comp, full DTT, 4'exh and a few extras i'm sure i'm forgetting. I just hope I can get the 97 to run that good
I will have the guages next week just trying to decide if I want 2 or 3 pyro, boost and not sure if I need fuel press. coming from the 24v side I'm familiar with needing a new lift pump every 30k
I already have the BHAF and like in the orig post will have exhaust on it this week with guages to follow. former truck had injectors , edge comp, full DTT, 4'exh and a few extras i'm sure i'm forgetting. I just hope I can get the 97 to run that good
11-20-2006, 07:09 AM
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A 100 or 0 would be home ground, easy to do.Just a few minutes with an angel or bench grinder. I would go with a 10 or 100 for what you are wanting.
A FP is not necessary on a 12v, but are handy for watching filter condtioin. The lift pumps on the 12v rarely die.
A FP is not necessary on a 12v, but are handy for watching filter condtioin. The lift pumps on the 12v rarely die.
11-20-2006, 08:23 AM
#7
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Right on about the fuel pressure gauge, not to mention the LP on these trucks is mechanical as well, it might tick here and there, but its usually not to worry about...
PS they aint much fun to replace either...
Rick
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11-21-2006, 04:41 PM
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Ok so far the 4" mbrp is here and the gauges should be here fri,,,,truck will be here tomorow. I have also ordered a 4" inline brake(due to the high egts on my last truck with a turbo mounted unit) 4k gsk a #10 fuel plate and both intake and ex springs.
. I have also ordered a 4" inline brake(due to the high egts on my last truck with a turbo mounted unit) 4k gsk a #10 fuel plate and both intake and ex springs.
11-21-2006, 10:24 PM
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There are two ways to go about it tho, and having done both ways, i would suggest going thru the side of the pump. The first place you can install the GSK is thru the top of the pump, which is easily accessed by removing the fuel plate. then barring the engine over from the alternator nut till you happen to see the Little Governer spring retainer nut,
The alternative method is going thru the side of the pump, there is some kind of 22 mm nut plug on the side of the pump that you can go thru that is much easier and poses less risk, in my opinion for you to drop anything into the pump...
IN either case, or either way that you go, you will have to remove the set of springs for both of the governer weights. Go ahead and untwist the nut and make sure that you count how many clicks or a bout how many turns it took you to get it close to where it needs to be. Or if you have a caliper, it sure helps to take a few measurements of the distance from the top of the governer stud to the base of the retaining nut in the groove. Next you pull out the stock springs (usually silver in color in my cases that ive done) and make sure that you get all of the shims out for everything to seat properly!! that is a crucial step.... now u just reassemble everything and Pretty much in a nutshell, thats what you do for both weights, then put the retaining nut back on....
Depending on what GSK you use, a 3000 rpm or a 4000 rpm kit you will have different numbers of springs, i know taht the 4K kit has 3 springs and the 3 K springs has 2, DO NOT remove the largest spring when u start to dissasemble, that is the idle control spring... If u do remove it accidentally just make sure and put it back
More advise, have a magnet with you IT WILL BE your best friend thru this install, make sure and pull out all the shims, and stuff with the little pencil magnet, otherwise everything will not seat the way it should or u might have trouble putting the retainer nut back on...
IN either case, this was too much info i know, but hey.. i got carried away....
Hope it helps
Rick
11-22-2006, 12:07 AM
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thanks man, i got the gist of it. after i get my lift thats the next thing im goin to do. after doing the fuel plate and dealing with the break off screw, i think im just gonna go through the side
