Walt L

Im in the middle of doing this upgrade to my 01 and thought some one may benifit from a side by side shot of these 2 turbos. It looks like the 2 different things to make the HX fit is the fact that you need 2 turbo exhaust flange studs that are about 1/2" longer since the HX does not have the 2 threaded flange holes you need to get the studs to come all the way through for 2 new nuts. And this particular HX35W has a wast gate vacumm can thats in the way of where the outlet to the intercooler should be. My fix to that was to loosen up the 3 bolts that hold the vac can mount on to the turbo and put a 1/4" washer on under the bolt closest to the vac can and then the bolt washer from under the mid bolt to between the mount and turbo then tighten the 3 down. That effectively pitched the entire vac can mount on a slight angle out and away from the outlet horn, giveing me more ability to turn the horn down to where it shoud be with out it hiting the vac can. The inlet turbine wheels are the same diameter but thats about the only thing they share in size. Im useing the same goose neck to the down pipe off the HY.

67HotRod

Thanks for the pics! Let me know how you like the HX, i need to get rid of my HY....

sheriffav8r

Yeah, keep us posted on install tips and how the thing compares with the HY....

Midnite

Maybe it's just the picture, but I'm surprised how much smaller the compressor housing appears to be on the HY. I always thought that they were the same except for the exhaust housings. I've only had trucks with HXs though.

Walt L

Yes, I will keep you guys posted on the results and particulars. From what Iv read here I knew the HX would move more volumm but the intake and exhaust sides are clearly different enough to prove that stated point of the upgrade. Im guessing a bit of turbo lag may be present were its not at all with the HY. And a seat of the paints acknowledgement of those larger horns will be welcome at RPM. stay tuned!

Walt L

Hi folks, here is the snag I ran into with this job. The wastgate control canister had to be moved considerably further off to the side than what it looked like just from eye balling the thing. Turning the intake horn is easy enough with a pair of vice grips on the expansion clip but the horn has to be turned down enough for it to line up with the intercooler piping. So I had to cut and weld the bracket to as far as I could get it from the horn and still have the shaft clear the bracket once engaged. Even with the bend you see, I still was a tiny bit out of center with the intercooler pipe to the goose neck horn but the rubber couplings gave me enough play to make it work. Maybe there is different wastgate "off set" bracket out there. If any one knows of it, please post it here since that would make this job a hell of alot easier. My next post should be a test report....hopefully!

Copenhagenjunkie

I would get rid of that style/kind of waste gate controller. Look here.
http://www.monstermarketplace.com/di...tegate-control

It's the only place I could find them now.

Below is a link to an article/review from Larry Ellis.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...rbomaster.html

I really like mine, I've had it for a long long time.

Walt L

CHJ,
Thanks for the links. Im glad you posted since reading a bunch here on the Y to X upgrade, this was not mentioned in those posts. It would be worth it considering the stocker mod work vs the $160 for a far better unit. School & town tax has me pined down pretty good for the moment... maybe down the road?

Tate

Ok, so why not just clock the compressor cover more to get by the wastegate head? There is lots of flex in the boots to the intercooler.

Walt L

Thats just it, you cant clock the compressor cover very far befor you hit the side of the wast gate reg can. With the wast gate controller in its original possition, the down swept elbo from the comp cover is like 2" away from being any where in line with the rubber expanssion coupling aside from the fact that it hits on the edge of the fender pan. Unlike the HY, the HX WG controller is not fixed to the commpressor cover, but to the cast exhaust housing. Im about 1/16th away from touching the WG controler now. Believe me, the monster spring controller is the way to go.

Walt L

I finaly got every thing done and had a few test drives. The old HY had some issue since it would hit 33lbs regularly @ WOT. It had no turbo lag what ever and was pretty snappy out to 2K rpm's. The truck would seem flat once you were into the 2400rpms and up. Now with the HX, this truck has a different character all together. The snappy1/3rd throttle is not there any more. you need more throttle to get close to that initial brisk responce of the HY with a #7 smarty setting. Now all the real power seems to have gone to the upper revs with a max boost of 23lbs. EGTs are about 100deg. less charging up my test hill. I cant "see" any smoke in the mirrors and am not sure more boost would do any thing more in power aside from maybe a small up tick in heat. I wounder how it would run on a #9 smarty program. Back when the smarty Catcher first cam out I had to send it out to get programed and settled on the 7 since the 9 would had given me poor snow plow traction. But now with the slight turbo lag, a 9 might fuel up a bit quicker. Dont get me wrong here, I like the new HX brawny power that was never there at the WOT shift points as oposed the HY, its just at normal driving light throttle spurts, the HY was more fun. Is the 23lbs boost about right for the RV275 injectors?

nickg

your actuator opens at 20-23 anyway, even if you block off or remove the boost line. exhaust pressure will blow the gate open, if you lock the gate closed you will see in the 30psi range