SilverHoss99

So the story is told of the man whos VP died. I have heard this story is told over and over and over. Well this story happened to me. My truck has not run in one week after trying many upon many different things to get it to start up. None of which worked might I add. I have decided to P-7100 pump my 24V. So this leads me to my next question. I have a very reputable mechanic. I just need the parts. I would like to find a p-7100 pump to rebuild myself with the 4gsk kit, LAser DV's, and so on. So if any one can give me some info on finding any type of p-7100 pump please let me know. Any help with this would be greatly appriciated thanks so much for all your guys help. Ben

JKM

There is always a couple on ebay , as well as the timing cover.

24valvepuller

check out the local junk yards and try to find a complete 12 valve for cheap, they can be found. with the entire motor you will have everything you need and then some. Injector lines can be found at Scheids, or Haisley's. Shoot me a PM if you got any questions.

Jetpilot

I have owned a p-pumed 24v truck and I really wouldn't recommend it for the daily driver... Now before I get hammered by the conversion crowd please hear me out. Yes you can get a conversion truck to work, the trick is to get it working well.... So far all of the trucks that I have seen converted for the daily driver/tower none of them have run anywhere close to as nice as a VP truck. To get the same driveability you will need more fuel from the pump so that means more smoke and egt's.

Now how to get one to run good... Change the cam to a design that fits, one made for a p-pumped truck with a lobe for a mechanical lift pump. Then look into injectors that are made for a conversion, remember the p-pump runs a lower pressure than a VP but there is a lot more to this than just lowering the pop-pressure. You will need new injector lines, do not get the larger diameter ones as they really work bad on conversions. Also it takes some work to get your CC working again. Be sure and pull the CEL as it will be illuminated all the time.

Now with a ton of tuning and dyno time you should be able to get the truck running close to as nice as a VP truck. You can make big HP with a p-pump but we know the VP will support at least 830+ RWHP so unless you want to go above this mark the VP is good. The variable timing and all of the parts being designed to work together just makes a VP truck nice to drive nice.

My thoughts on the matter is that you can replace the VP a lot of times for the expense and headache of the conversion. Just my $.02 worth.

Doug

RonA

Well said Doug.

Ron

24valvepuller

Doug, what are the problems you have seen with the bigger lines?

SilverHoss99

Well I am having a previous Cummins Diesel certified Tech do the conversion for me. I am purchasing a Conversion kit from Scheid diesel in Lafayette that comes with all the brackets and new cam and everything for the conversion. I am doing this conversion for very cheap too about $700.00 more than rebuilt VP. So I do not know where you are getting your figures for p-pump conversion. They are very affordable now and alot or people are actually knowledgeable in the conversion. I believe the reason you do not want people to do the conversion is because our truck is very rare at the moment. Once people start see how cheap it is and how much more reliable it is your truck will be all but normal. thanks again Ben.

Jetpilot

24valvepuller

The problems with the larger lines seems to be pressure/fill time. The p-pump really has much lower pressure output especially at lower rpm levels. The large lines seem to make the trucks run rough and have reduced HP.

SilverHoss99

My response has nothing to do with a truck being rare because I don't own it any more..... This wasn't meant as a flame towards anyone and their decision to do a conversion. It is based on first hand experience with mine and others trucks who have p-pumped 24v's. Above you see Ron A's post, he has a p-pumped truck and he can enlighten guys about the pitfalls. The prices I quoted are what the cost run to set up a truck like I mentioned and make it run as best it can. Yes it can be done for much less but I am talking about making the truck run as nice as a VP equipped truck.

On a side note I see that you are wanting to run a 4k kit, be sure and upgrade the 24v valvesprings so that you do not have valve to piston contact with the increased rpm. The springs on the 24v motors don't like increased rpm, I see a lot of motors that have marks in the pistons that run the OEM redline.

oestreich84

Jetpilot-
I thought that the 60lb valve springs in our 24 valve trucks were fine to run to 3500 rpm. If not, where can we find new springs that will work for higher RPM's? I am not doubting you, I just don't want to do any damage when I upgrade to a drag comp. Thanks, Joe

Timmay2

Why would you want to run beyond 3500 rpm?

Have you seen a good HP/TQ curve on a 24v? By 3000rpm you should be shifting to be right back in the peak area.

No point in running out the RPMs when theres more peak power below that point.

.. unless youre going for max top end speed?

oestreich84

That is true on trucks that de-fuel at 2700. On a truck that has a drag comp, smarty, or some other box that allows full fuel to higher rpm's, the hp curve continues to grow. If you look at a dyno chart from a regular comp and a drag comp, the numbers will be exactly the same to 2700rpm, then the drag comp will gain, on the average, 40hp. The smarty will fuel right up to 3500rpm, and some other boxes will fuel up to 4000rpm.

Timmay2

Yes, i was looking at dyno charts of the smarty and edge drag both.

This is one quick one i found of the TST box:
http://www.tstproducts.com/index.asp...ROD&ProdID=139

As you can tell, the TQ curve falls BEFORE the engine even reaches 2500rpm... you cant blame that on defueling!

**addon*
i saw you were trying to compare HP.. i cant find a graph now that shows HP effectively, but even though the HP may increase.. but you ask anyone, HP sells cars, Torque wins races..

Keeping it in the max torque, especially on a heavy vehicle, accellerates faster.

Do you have charts handy? I remember one with the comp drag box where the torque was nearly 250ft lbs lower at 3000 vs 2000.

oestreich84

I don't have any charts handy, and now I dont remember where I saw them. The torque usually does fall off before 2500 rpm though. In an ideal racing world, you would take off at peak torque, and shift about 100-200rpm over peak hp. If you can extend your rpm range another 500+rpm before you hit peak hp, you will be faster because of the broader powerband. At least that is what I have found.

24valvepuller

Sledpulling

cummnz4x4pwr

Im running next to the biggest lines you can get and have had no problems whatsoever.

as for tuning the truck you DONT need a dyno you just tune it exactly like you tune a 12v like ive said 100 times over its the same motor with a different head and pistons. and you DONT need CUSTOM INJECTORS if you lower the pop pressure it does exactly the same thing as dougs and dons socalled CUSTOM INJECTORS.

Doug did not do his own conversion he paid a huge shop to do it so they gave him this huge spill of how big of a deal it is and that its going to cost mucho$$$$$ and he paid.

I installed mine and just finished a buddy of mines 24v p-pump conversion both of which cost less thatn $2000.

so you can shoot me a pm if youd like


jake