Oil Pan Removal - Help!
#1
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Oil Pan Removal - Help!
I am replacing my oil pan gasket along with rear main seal. I dropped my transmission already. The repair manual said to lift the engine out of the motor mounts then pull the oil pan. I already have the tranny out. The problem I am facing is there is a lip on the left side front of oil pan looking from front of engine that won't clear without raising motor some.
My question is: Can I use a block of wood and floor jack and raise engine using the crank pulley some just to clear that lip? I don't want to damage my crank so figured I best ask first. Also, how does the oil pickup tube inside unfasten?
My alldata said to take it off along with pan, but hard to get to with pan in the way. If there is a diesel tech or someone who has done this, please chime in. Thanks!
My question is: Can I use a block of wood and floor jack and raise engine using the crank pulley some just to clear that lip? I don't want to damage my crank so figured I best ask first. Also, how does the oil pickup tube inside unfasten?
My alldata said to take it off along with pan, but hard to get to with pan in the way. If there is a diesel tech or someone who has done this, please chime in. Thanks!
#3
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i think you have to raise the motor, drop the pan as far as it will, reach in and unscrew the pickup tube, let the pickup fall into the pan - then slide the pan out.
i have never done this, but have researched it some. it is my understanding that the pan will not slide out with the pickup still in place . . .
not sure on your question about raising the motor though . . .
i have never done this, but have researched it some. it is my understanding that the pan will not slide out with the pickup still in place . . .
not sure on your question about raising the motor though . . .
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Thanks for letting me know. I am going to try and raise it from the edge of the block being the oil pan moves back enough to get a wood block in there. Hope someone chimes in about lifting on the crank though.
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I did this same job last year. I lifted on the edge of the block. Maybe you could lift from the crank but I was nervous about that, somebody else can maybe chime in here. Just don't do what I did and jack it up to high and crack the plastic valve cover. lol
You will have to get the pan dropped, reach in there and unbolt the pickup tube.
The reason I had to pull the pan was not due to it leaking. But the turbo drain tube broke in half, and the funnel end that sits in the block fell into the pan when I was trying to remove it. I guess I could of just let it sit in there but you never know.
You will have to get the pan dropped, reach in there and unbolt the pickup tube.
The reason I had to pull the pan was not due to it leaking. But the turbo drain tube broke in half, and the funnel end that sits in the block fell into the pan when I was trying to remove it. I guess I could of just let it sit in there but you never know.
#6
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I know I'm a day late and this will not help too much but, I have lifted many v8's and gaser inline 6's by the harmnonic balancer and zero issues.
It would take A LOT of pressure to damage that little stub of the crank.
It would take A LOT of pressure to damage that little stub of the crank.
#7
I do not know what is on these engines for a balancer. If it is the sandwiched rubber style lifting it under the balancer will not hurt.
However, if the balancer appears "solid" then do not put any pressure on it. Higher quality fluid filled dampers are easily damaged. Their outer shell may be thin and there may only be 0.010" or less clearance between the shell and the internal mass. They rely on close tolerances for the fluid to create internal damping drag. They are easily damaged by striking or lifting.
Again if it is a rubber damper, no problem.
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#8
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Lifting by the crank will not hurt anything.
I do not know what is on these engines for a balancer. If it is the sandwiched rubber style lifting it under the balancer will not hurt.
However, if the balancer appears "solid" then do not put any pressure on it. Higher quality fluid filled dampers are easily damaged. Their outer shell may be thin and there may only be 0.010" or less clearance between the shell and the internal mass. They rely on close tolerances for the fluid to create internal damping drag. They are easily damaged by striking or lifting.
Again if it is a rubber damper, no problem.
I do not know what is on these engines for a balancer. If it is the sandwiched rubber style lifting it under the balancer will not hurt.
However, if the balancer appears "solid" then do not put any pressure on it. Higher quality fluid filled dampers are easily damaged. Their outer shell may be thin and there may only be 0.010" or less clearance between the shell and the internal mass. They rely on close tolerances for the fluid to create internal damping drag. They are easily damaged by striking or lifting.
Again if it is a rubber damper, no problem.
#9
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Nate, I am clear about the two bolts where the pickup tube connects with the gasket etc. My pickup tube has a curved fitting on the tube in two spots that looks like the tube rest against or is supported by. In addition, the curved fitting appears to be held up by the bolt that goes through the block stiffener also. Am I seeing sh.t or is this how your tube looked also? Thanks for chiming in.
Did you get it all finished?
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Fox, you have saved the day my friend! That is exactly what I needed to see. Rock on man! I just have to get my fingers in there and loosen the two bolts. Looks like an 8mm or 10mm bolt. She's pretty tight up there. No pun intended!
#12
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Glad the picture helped. The picture was when the piston rod bearing ,#2 cylinder, went out on me after 13k miles. You can see the scarring in the picture. It was a few years and 80k miles ago, knock on wood.
It has come up a few times when someone needs to know how the oil pick-up tube is located. Good luck.
It has come up a few times when someone needs to know how the oil pick-up tube is located. Good luck.
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