jpajax

I have a 2003 CID srw with limited slip diff. The problem I have is that the rear tires are wearing twice as fast as front. No I am not lead footed I have noticed that when I turn in my drive way(witch is a sharp slight up hill turn) I can hear the tires chirp. Could the rear end be locked all the time or is this normal. How could I tell if was locked all the time?

MR. GADGET

No way to lock it if not broke.

Have you always had the truck? Changed the oil.... Did someone weld the diff to make a locker, because they thought it was not good enough.

Go to a parking lot use as little go ped as needed to move and turn a circle.
If it barks then somethiong it not working or factory.

It will only bark under power if LS is factory.

Totallyrad

You really should hear them if all is well with the rear end. The factory posi will cause them to chirp in a tight turn. Add in a change in the approach angle and you only make it easier. The simple explanation is that as you turn and change the approach you unload, or remove some weight from one of the rear tires, making it easier for the tire to slip. That's why you hear the chirp. As to your tire wear, if you're not a hot rodder and you're not cornering hard or overloading the truck, air pressure is the likely culprit. Measure the tread on the tire. Compare the depth near the edges to the depth in the center. If the center has less tread, lower the air pressure. If the center has more tread, raise the air pressure. FWIW, on my dually I have to run 75 in the front and 30 in the rear unless I'm loading the truck just to get the tires to wear square.

jpajax

Bought the truck used put new tires on at that time and changed fluid first thing, the cover had never been off. Used Mobile 1 fully synthetic 75-90, do haul 5th wheel with hitch weight about 1900lb but only few short trips a year. I guess it is going to be the nature of the beast. I am running 70lb front 65lb rear unloaded and 75lb all the around loaded tire wearing extremely even across the face with no cupping. Thanks for the replies and info. It is about time for shocks 77,600 miles on clock am leaning toward Bilstein if I can round up the $.

MR. GADGET

Are the tires e rated or not.

Many people using lower load range and they are toast fast.

jpajax

Not to change subject but is 95 ft lb tq. on lugs nuts ok for this truck with stock alum. wheels? Tire dealer wanted 110-120. Yes 265-70r-17 E rated 10 ply. Michelin LTX AS.

Raspy

jpajax,

The rears do wear faster than the fronts and, on mine, I hear them chirping on tight, slow uphill turns too. The more torque you put in the harder the diff tries to lockup. I wish they were a bit more aggressive, but they do work. All that torque and such a heavy truck can lead to fast tire wear.

I reduced my wheel lug nut torque on my H2 wheels. I like to grease the taper and grease the threads. So a lower torque gives the same clamping force and lug tension. 95 is fine and, I think, better than 110-120. Just re-check them after a few miles to be sure and then they will be stable until you take them back off.

SundayMoney

No,95 isn't enough. The stock aluminum wheels need 140lbs.

Raspy

I've been running mine at 90 ft lbs, with H2s, for about 190,000 miles now. Remember, when you grease the threads and the tapered nut faces, you change how much clamping force and how much bolt tension is generated by the torque, compared to dry surfaces. A dry taper takes far more torque to generate the same clamping force. Even the tire store agreed lower torque was fine, when greased, and are happy to tighten mine to 90 ft. lbs.

Lug nuts should always be re-checked after a few miles too.

Each one should do what they consider safe. So there is nothing wrong with dry lug nuts and factory specs.

Dojman

I've got a 96 with limited slip and no chirp, using dino and friction limiter. Do you need to add friction limiter to the rear end with the synthetic also?

jpajax

03 has the new type rear end that doesn't require additive.