Occasional Rough Start/No Start
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Occasional Rough Start/No Start
Most of the time it starts right up with very little cranking (less than half a second) - like it always has, but the other day I get in it in the morning to drive to work and turned the key to start & it seemed like it was trying to start, but was firing very unevenly. After about 15 seconds of spitting & missing trying to start it did finally start & was fine until 3 or 4 days later when it did the same thing. Fuel filter and fuel lines are okay - nothing leaking.
Curiously, I can always tell before I turn the key when I'm going to get this no start/rough start - the seat belt warning chime doesn't go off when the ignition key gets to the run position before starting. I'm thinking there must be some electrical fault that's common to both conditions (bad ignition switch?).
Anybody know if this could simply be caused by one of the relays under the hood in the power distribution box? Any help appreciated - thanks!
Steve
Curiously, I can always tell before I turn the key when I'm going to get this no start/rough start - the seat belt warning chime doesn't go off when the ignition key gets to the run position before starting. I'm thinking there must be some electrical fault that's common to both conditions (bad ignition switch?).
Anybody know if this could simply be caused by one of the relays under the hood in the power distribution box? Any help appreciated - thanks!
Steve
#2
Registered User
I don't think the seat belt chime and starting system share anything in common but could be wrong.
I think it might be a fuel supply system air suction leak that depends on fuel level and length of time the truck is parked to affect stating.
I think it might be a fuel supply system air suction leak that depends on fuel level and length of time the truck is parked to affect stating.
#3
Registered User
I would think on a 2nd gen, if the two problems are related, it must be a very basic problem, as that engine doesn't use any sophisticated electronics for starting.
Start by having a good look at the battery connections; make sure they are clean and tight. On the driver side there is a blue wire on the positive terminal that powers the fuel shutoff solenoid. Be sure it has a good clean connection.
From there, I would focus on two locations- the shutoff solenoid and its circuits, and as you mentioned, the ignition switch. The shutoff solenoid has two circuits: the pull in (powered through a relay and supplied through that blue wire), and the hold in (powered through the ignition switch). I would use a voltmeter and make sure these circuits have battery voltage when they are supposed to, and if not, you can work backward through the system to narrow down the cause.
Start by having a good look at the battery connections; make sure they are clean and tight. On the driver side there is a blue wire on the positive terminal that powers the fuel shutoff solenoid. Be sure it has a good clean connection.
From there, I would focus on two locations- the shutoff solenoid and its circuits, and as you mentioned, the ignition switch. The shutoff solenoid has two circuits: the pull in (powered through a relay and supplied through that blue wire), and the hold in (powered through the ignition switch). I would use a voltmeter and make sure these circuits have battery voltage when they are supposed to, and if not, you can work backward through the system to narrow down the cause.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tomm
3rd Generation Ram - Non Drivetrain - All Years
5
07-02-2007 10:07 PM