View Full Version : nv5600 6spd hard to get in gear now
09-07-2005, 07:18 AM
about 2-3 weeks ago i replaced my clutch with a LUK replacement and also a new slave/master cylinder from the dealer. ever since I have had a hard time getting the truck in gear. when sitting still its a fight to get into 2nd or reverse...sometimes i have to pull the shifter over and ram it back and forth until it will finally pull down into 2nd. and reverse sometimes require i put the truck in gear and roll forward before it will go into reverse.
what would cause this? when the truck is not running i checked to see if the tranny was just tight and i can get it in any gear effortlessly, but when the truck is running, its a workout to get the stinking thing in gear.
PS- i am planning to change the fluid out to some royal purple synchromax, but i dont think that will help when putting it in gear when sitting still
09-07-2005, 07:42 AM
I would say your clutch isn't completely disengaging if it shifts fine when not running. Might want to try pushing the clutch pedal all the way to the floor with every shift if you're not already doing that.
09-07-2005, 07:46 AM
once its in gear and im moving it shifts just fine, its just trying to get into 2nd or reverse from a stop
09-07-2005, 08:17 AM
Move it into 3rd first then try whatever gear.
09-07-2005, 12:07 PM
Does double clutching help?
09-07-2005, 12:47 PM
does anyone read the question????
it shifts like a champ once im moving, i can double clutch, normal shift, or shift at the right rpm with out the clutch if i wanted to...doesnt matter its perfect once moving
im talking about when i stop, and the truck is in neutral, when i try to put it in gear again to take off(and thats any gear, reverse and 2nd i use most but to check i tried putting it in any gear from a stop and it just doesnt wanna go without alot of force and that scares me because it feels like im gonna bend/break something using so much force)...its VERY difficult and before the new clutch it was not hard at all
09-07-2005, 12:50 PM
Either the clutch isn't completely disengaging or the pilot bearing/input shaft snout is damaged and failing (it can happen when the transmission is reinstalled).
09-07-2005, 01:24 PM
any way to figure it out without pulling the tranny...would someone at a tranny shop be able to tell me if they felt it, saw what im talking about? or is it one of those things where i absolutely have to pull the tranny and do a visual inspection
09-07-2005, 03:55 PM
Have you tried double clutching like soneone else said earler at a stop. Are you pushing the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and you don't have a floor mat under the clutch at a stop. Like you said it shifts fine when moving and fine when stopped with the engine off but no at a stop when the engine is running. That would tell me that your trany is just fine and you clutch is not disangaging enough to let you put it in gear at a stop. It is pobably not disangaging all the way when moving but like you said if you shift at the right time you don't need a clutch when on the move so you may not notice a problem. The only realy important time the clutch has to totaly disangage is at a stop. Check you clutch [director]
Wes in TN
09-08-2005, 01:33 PM
I had the same problem after installing my new LUK clutch and all new Mopar hydraulics. I pulled my slave cylinder and manually compressed the piston holding the slave in an orientation that any air in the system would be forced up. Make sure you compress the cylinder slowly. After I did that getting into gear when stopped was much easier, not as easy as it was before replacing everything but liveable. That's really the only thing you can try without pulling the tranny since there is no inspection cover on the bellhousing.
09-08-2005, 01:39 PM
we had a nv 4500 that did that exact thing... we took it to the dealer .. the tech put in half a bottle of friction modifier for limited slip rearends... sifts like a champ now. not sure if it works on a 5600 though....
09-08-2005, 02:50 PM
Had that happen with mine, the flywheel when it was machined was a little too deep, thus the factory bolts were bottoming out before the pressure plate was flush with the flywheel. pm me if you are interested otherwise i wrote a thread about it back in july
09-08-2005, 06:14 PM
Sounds like you have air in the hyd. system. Sometimes it is difficult to get all of the air out. bleed it some more.
09-08-2005, 07:02 PM
Sounds like air in the system.
09-08-2005, 08:45 PM
That is the same answer everyone gave me i replaced the master slave assembly twice. peter from SBC informed me that it is becoming a common occurance that when these flywheels are resurfaced the stock bolts bottom out so washers and/or lock nuts are needed to take up the slack. The 98-2002 hydraulic clutch assemblies are pre bled you should not have air in them. i thought and attempted the same thing Peter told me it was pointless if the setup didnt work fromt eh get go something was wrong that was not going to straighten itself out we swapped out several assemblies before determining that i amd one of the many who are finding that the flywheel bolts just barely bottomed out enough to make the pressure plate look like it was totally seated but had just a hair between the flywheel and pressure plate allowing the pplate to travel a little before disengaging the clutch thus not fulling disengaging the pplate from the disk and giving you the pedal down creep. if you had air in the system it would probably bleed off while you have the pedal towards the floor thuse sitting on the floor it would not only creep but mostlikely re-engage the disk as you lost pressure.
my thoughts and experience but im thinking you may have to pull this apart and see if there is just a hair of a gap between that pressure plate and flywheel. i say this because it did it with your old hydraulic clutch assembly and with a new one. something tells me that two bad assemblies back to back is not common, especially when dealling with pre-bled sealed systems, when one worked just fine before the clutch job and didnt after, how does air get into a sealed system unless there was a scar or gouge in the cylinder, if this was a 94-97 truck i might wager this but a 98-2002 if it wasnt bleeding off pressure and then engaging uncontrollably i seriously doubt air got into that prebled system. that said this may be internal issue like mine was, as simple as bad luck that the bolts bottomed out in thier holes just a thread too soon. Im emphising this because i have run into this on numerous truck since doing my clutch job where many guys said oh its the slave assembly and spent alot of time chasing the wrong issue and then finally had to pull it back apart.
FYI you are describing partial disengagement. only a few thing cause this on a diaphram hdralic assembly like dodges use.
09-08-2005, 09:08 PM
Reread the suggestion I made when you had stated you lost the clutch in the first place. I regret not installing the BB pilot bearing the first time I had the trans out. I am now enjoying a smooth shifting truck. The new oem bearing I put had damaged the input shaft even more then the one that failed because the cage of the bearing was riding against it instead of just the neddles.
09-09-2005, 08:38 AM
Took my big catch-all floor mat out and trimmed the front edge so the pedal didnt hit it...truck goes into gear alot easier now...still not quite as easy as before the master cylinder went out, but MUCH easier than the last 2 weeks.
Also newriver, the original problem was a failed master cylinder...put the new clutch in and the pedal was still dead...new master/slave from the dealer solved all my issues, but my old clutch was toast, about 1/16" from rivets hitting the flywheel/pressure plate
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