NV4500 trouble/ Spent $$$ should have bought new truck
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,056
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
NV4500 trouble/ Spent $$$ should have bought new truck
Short of being psychic, I need some help from you guys. I've spent thousands on my transmission/clutch and still have problems.
It is hard to get into gear, 1,2, 5 and R. It doesn't shift smooth when shifting thru most gears. What to do next?
What Ive replaced:
Clutch: original, then Valeo, the current is 13" Con O SB
Hydraulics: SB Heavy duty pre-bled slave/master
transmission: origninal went bad at 200k, junk yard trans lasted 8k, rebuilder put in two and realized that their shifter was bad(column type) kept poping out of gear, then he put in 3rd transmission. It is my current problem 15K on it
Changed fluid 2 times, once with the Syntorq and once with Amsoil equiv.
Still, it is hard to get into 1,2 and R at a stop, even when moving, it feels like the gears are catching, but not really grinding like a bad syncro. It doesn't just slide into gear, you have to almost push it into gear or hold it against gear till it pops in. To get it into 1, I push in clutch, and drop it into 2nd or 3rd and then 1st and it goes right in. With R, I put in 5th and then R. Also, when shifting into 5th, you have to push kinda hard to put it into gear(not real smooth).
We put in New SBC Con O a month ago, there was no pilot bushing left and the throw out bearing was worn out, even thought there was only 15k on the Valeo.
I've been told that I need a new input shaft and bearings?
I've been told that it needs syncros?
I've been told that the tolerances/spacing/gaps in trans are out of spec?
I was told to sent it in and have another shop go thru it and repair/replace parts.
I've read hundreds of threads on clutch and or trans trouble.
Please help, I should have bought a new truck with all the money I spent on this thing. Sorry for the long post, just fed up, and every possilbe solution keeps costing more $$$$$.
It is hard to get into gear, 1,2, 5 and R. It doesn't shift smooth when shifting thru most gears. What to do next?
What Ive replaced:
Clutch: original, then Valeo, the current is 13" Con O SB
Hydraulics: SB Heavy duty pre-bled slave/master
transmission: origninal went bad at 200k, junk yard trans lasted 8k, rebuilder put in two and realized that their shifter was bad(column type) kept poping out of gear, then he put in 3rd transmission. It is my current problem 15K on it
Changed fluid 2 times, once with the Syntorq and once with Amsoil equiv.
Still, it is hard to get into 1,2 and R at a stop, even when moving, it feels like the gears are catching, but not really grinding like a bad syncro. It doesn't just slide into gear, you have to almost push it into gear or hold it against gear till it pops in. To get it into 1, I push in clutch, and drop it into 2nd or 3rd and then 1st and it goes right in. With R, I put in 5th and then R. Also, when shifting into 5th, you have to push kinda hard to put it into gear(not real smooth).
We put in New SBC Con O a month ago, there was no pilot bushing left and the throw out bearing was worn out, even thought there was only 15k on the Valeo.
I've been told that I need a new input shaft and bearings?
I've been told that it needs syncros?
I've been told that the tolerances/spacing/gaps in trans are out of spec?
I was told to sent it in and have another shop go thru it and repair/replace parts.
I've read hundreds of threads on clutch and or trans trouble.
Please help, I should have bought a new truck with all the money I spent on this thing. Sorry for the long post, just fed up, and every possilbe solution keeps costing more $$$$$.
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: sebring fl.
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
http://www.atsdiesel.com/ATSWebsite/...dge/Manual.asp here is a link to ats give it atry see what happens if nothing else call and tell them your troubles see what they say.
#3
Is this last transmission a rebuilt junkyard one? If ur making sure the clutch is to the floor all the way on each shift, and that the slave is working properly, it definently sounds like a shift rail problem or somthing else internal. Pop ur shift boots off and make sure the shifter is fully locked in place, i know before I got mine locked in, it wouldn't like to go into gear smoothly.
how about when the truck is turned off and u just shift through the gears without pushing the pedal? It should go in and out of each gear really easy.
If ur gonna spend any more significant money, either buy a new one like he posted ^, or get it rebuilt by someone reputable for $600 and get some kind of warrenty because these are durable transmissions. Or do the work urself, it's not that hard, I did this 5spd swap and had no experience really.
how about when the truck is turned off and u just shift through the gears without pushing the pedal? It should go in and out of each gear really easy.
If ur gonna spend any more significant money, either buy a new one like he posted ^, or get it rebuilt by someone reputable for $600 and get some kind of warrenty because these are durable transmissions. Or do the work urself, it's not that hard, I did this 5spd swap and had no experience really.
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: florida
Posts: 353
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
sounds like you havew the same problem as me. Do you have any play in your clutch pedal, specifically at the pin that carries the rod for the master cylinder? If so, that is compounding your problem which is lack of throw in the throw out lever. I installed a used 5 speed, unknown history, 5th gear is good so far. My clutch pedal however is worn out. even with a new bushing installed there is play. I'm going to pull it out and weld on a new rod to proper thickness
You can try another option as well and that is to buy some 5/16 rod and cut a longer rod for the slave cyilnder. I did it and it helped but I think that I still need to replace my clutch pedal rod. I hope I didnt confuse you but give it a try.
lewis
You can try another option as well and that is to buy some 5/16 rod and cut a longer rod for the slave cyilnder. I did it and it helped but I think that I still need to replace my clutch pedal rod. I hope I didnt confuse you but give it a try.
lewis
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,056
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The flywheel is new with last clutch 13" Con O
The linkage is tight as far as the pedal/under the dash
This transmission is from a reputable rebuilder that does work nationwide. It has 10k miles on it.
The shifter seems OK, it is the four bolt kind. not the column type.
With truck off and clutch pedal not depressed, I can shift 1-4 easily and sometimes 5th, but it won't go in usually, same with reverse.
Some times when I try it, it will not shift unless i jiggle the lever back and forth then it shifts thru gears ok.(not running no clutch)
I am leaning towards the input shaft bearings are bad, allowing the shaft to wobble and stuff not line up right. Sound Logical? I hate to take it out again.
Free if I do it, or $200 my mechanic does it with his hoist, plus parts
Thanks for the help.
The linkage is tight as far as the pedal/under the dash
This transmission is from a reputable rebuilder that does work nationwide. It has 10k miles on it.
The shifter seems OK, it is the four bolt kind. not the column type.
With truck off and clutch pedal not depressed, I can shift 1-4 easily and sometimes 5th, but it won't go in usually, same with reverse.
Some times when I try it, it will not shift unless i jiggle the lever back and forth then it shifts thru gears ok.(not running no clutch)
I am leaning towards the input shaft bearings are bad, allowing the shaft to wobble and stuff not line up right. Sound Logical? I hate to take it out again.
Free if I do it, or $200 my mechanic does it with his hoist, plus parts
Thanks for the help.
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,056
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
To help clarify my theory:
the pilot bearing was bad in previous clutch which may have allowed the input shaft to wobble and ruin the bearings. That is my theory.
the pilot bearing was bad in previous clutch which may have allowed the input shaft to wobble and ruin the bearings. That is my theory.
Trending Topics
#8
Chapter President
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: A state of Missery (Missouri)
Posts: 1,763
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I don't know where you got the tans. from. When I replaced my tran. on the 97 in my avitar 2 years ago I got a total rebuild with the splined shaft, and new clutch all done by someone else for $2,200. Not enough to buy a new 97with about 210k on it at that time.
#9
Banned
I had this same problem. Here is a list that I would check.
1.] make sure that your bushings are installed on all four bolts that hold the shifter assembly into the tranny.
2.] Take shifter assembly out of trans & make sure that the bottom of the shifter isn't binding up on one of the clevis pins that go into the shift lever assembly.....they do come out.
3.] Try adjusting the square flange with the 4 bolts back/forward....my truck shifted hard & turned out to be the flange needed tweeked a little.
1.] make sure that your bushings are installed on all four bolts that hold the shifter assembly into the tranny.
2.] Take shifter assembly out of trans & make sure that the bottom of the shifter isn't binding up on one of the clevis pins that go into the shift lever assembly.....they do come out.
3.] Try adjusting the square flange with the 4 bolts back/forward....my truck shifted hard & turned out to be the flange needed tweeked a little.
#10
I think the 97's still had the shift cover with the shifter tower integrated in. Didn't they change to the bolt on shift tower in 98? If thats the case, take the shifter out and clean the rim where the shift cup locks in, it can have crud in there that makes the shifter alittle lifted out of place.
#11
fyi, I have the nv4500 out of my 98. It broke while in 5th gear. I never plled it apart, but the problem is associated with 5th. It has the billet main shaft in it. It shifted like butter. 200$ and shipping and anyone can have it.
belhousing available, no shifter.
I used the bd short shifter in my nv5600 conversion (they say you cant but it was easy) .
belhousing available, no shifter.
I used the bd short shifter in my nv5600 conversion (they say you cant but it was easy) .
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,056
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
FYI
My nv4500 is the new version. It has the four bolt shifter. Not the colum and socket type. I will take it out and look at it. That was the original problem with the 1st new trans. THe new shifter they installed had a burr on it and it scored the socket in top of the column which let it pop out of gear.
UPDATE:
The rebuilder of the trans said to come up to his shop (3 hour drive away) and he said he would test drive it and tear in to it if he had to. We'll see if what else this post comes up with before I go there.
Thanks
My nv4500 is the new version. It has the four bolt shifter. Not the colum and socket type. I will take it out and look at it. That was the original problem with the 1st new trans. THe new shifter they installed had a burr on it and it scored the socket in top of the column which let it pop out of gear.
UPDATE:
The rebuilder of the trans said to come up to his shop (3 hour drive away) and he said he would test drive it and tear in to it if he had to. We'll see if what else this post comes up with before I go there.
Thanks
#15
Banned