WACTD

I removed the stock glass-reinforced-plastic cleats and replaced them with these D-rings:

They have a working strength of 4400 pounds, a minimum breaking strength of 11K pounds, and (conveniently) have the same two inch mounting centers as the factory cleats. I'm reasonably confident they're stronger than the double-thick, C-channel backed bed metal to which they're now attached [grin].

They wanted to rattle a bit due to clearance between the bracket and the D-ring, but a small piece of adhesive-backed neoprene behind the D-ring solved that. The loading direction is opposite the neoprene so it will have no effect when the D-rings are being used to secure a load.

Cost was under $6 each at a local trailer supply house. Another few dollars for M8 metric bolts and washers and I was all done for under $30.

runamuk

Nice job I'm changing mine this weekend!!!

I'm sick of those plastic boat tie downs!

Rick

Jus Cruisin

Now all you need to concern yourself is rust. I've never heard of a factory tie failure.

Patriot2500

You should be able to spray them down with an anti-rust spray or something. They look awesome, makes me want to switch mine.

MikeyB

Plastic? Mine is made from aluminum.

MikeyB

Dodgezilla

Never had a problem with mine in the 03 and I used them quite often...

Peterbilt

When I put my bed Dodge bed liner in, you move the tie downs via a bracket. Anyway, when I reattached one of the tie downs I overtighend one of the screws and cracked the area around the screw hole. Bought another one at the dealer for the usual bargin price .

Pete

lcaad1249

Now what about the sheet metal the beds made of? The tie down is only as strong as the attachment point. Also adding the extra stress if you tied at an angle.

BigDave12768

It looks to me like he used the same bolt holes from the factory tie downs. So rust shouldn't be an issue

WACTD

That's why I said:

>>I'm reasonably confident they're stronger than the double-thick, C-channel backed bed metal to which they're now attached [grin].<<

The bed is reinforced in the area of the cleats with C-channel backing plates. Threaded inserts are behind the plates, so the threads are already in place. Your point is correct, but now at least I know the strength is based on the bed and not on the plastic cleats nor their "screws of unknown quality".

If things look questionable down the road, I may install my own thicker backing plates with bolts instead of the threaded inserts. That will distribute the forces across a larger surface area. Beyond that, the only way to make it better is to connect them directly to the frame.

bkrukow

I did the exact same thing a year ago to tie down my ATV rack. I dident get as lucky though on the hole alignment. I had to redrill a new hole on one side of the bracket but that was abought the only difference. Now like you said the weekest point is the little bracket behind the sheet metal and its threads. I tied my ATV rack with 2 ATVs on it to those and put a few thousand miles on it with no problem.



You cant see the D loops in this pic but they look almost identical to yours. Gives you an idea of how strong they are now though.

04ctd

would stainless bolts not be better?

or is stainless that much weaker?

nelrod

Looks good, I would like to know of any failures on the factory ones, if both will pull thru the bed wall it's a moot excercise.

WACTD

While I agree from strength standpoint the bed wall and backing plate are now the limiting factor, the other advantage of the D-ring is that it will accept virtually ANY hook or other attachment device. The OEM cleats are "open" style cleats but have very restricted clearance underneath. I wouldn't trust just hooking under one of the "ears", so moving to the D-rings "opens up" my options.

bubba33

That looks good I put a chain link on my factory cleats. So now I have a loop.