PatJ

I've got a couple questions.
First off my truck is a 91 non i/c 2wd dually with the 3 spd auto.
I've only owned the truck for a couple months and the guy I bought
It off of told me the transmission wasn't rebuilt about 20000k ago and he put a
Shift kit in it (don't know what kind) he also put bigger injectors in it (also dunno what kind or how big) I would assume nothin
Too durastic. Also a smaller housing on the exaust side of the turbo and 4" back exaust.
I've done a couple tweaks with the pump. Turned the cone to the deepest side. Turn the star wheel way down and the smoke screw down a bit. Now I only use the truck as a daily driver back and forth to work. I don't pull a trailer regularly.

Now for the questions.
1. The pyro probe is mounted about 3 inchs past the turbo and reads about 600. And 300 at idle. I've only seen it hit about 800 once and that day was pretty warm and I was ruggin on it pretty good.
Do those numbers seem acurate?
2. How much more power will the trans take?
3. Fuel screw. How do you guys get at it? On mine it looks pretty hard to get at I can hardly get my finger tips on it let alone any tools to get the cap off to get at it.
4. At idle the voltage gauge jumps around a bit at higher rpm is consistant. ( Has brand new alternator on it as of last week)

I thinks that's all. For now anyways. Thanks in advance for any help and advice you guys have

deanhinsley1963

1 post turbo readings should be kept 950 or less. 2 trans is probably ok but factory t/c is pretty loose. 3 I removed the throttle linkage then the bracket on the end of the pump take a socket to break the locknut loose then i took the screw completly out took the colar off count how many turns to remove while out chase the threads on the screw they will be boogered form the collar. Get them in good shape then reinstall to the same position then turn in 1/2 turn at a time with the turbo intake un hooked with a buddy and a 2x6 board in case of runaway. then if wished turn until throttle hangs (the rpm hangs when you rev it up) then turn in 1/2 turn and you are maxed out. 4 volt gauge fluctuating is normal when engine is cold (it's the grid heater). if any of this is unclear read the stickies on this forum they have pics. Have Fun!!!!

deanhinsley1963

sorry my bad I mean't when the throttle hangs BACK the screw up 1/2 turn then lock down.

thrashingcows

Hey welcome to the DTR!!

As for your questions....

Your post turbo Pyro on a non-IC truck seems to be reading fine. My 89 motor, Non-IC, has the same set-up and reads about the same. 300 at idle and warmest it got when pulling my Desoto home was 850. They say add about 250-300 to the temp to get an accurate idea of what your temps are at the manifold and motor.

I don't know anything about the autos, I have a manual, but I know the stock converters were a weak point.

Your fuel screw cover has to be pried off, and then the collar removed. Easier if you remove the AFC and do it on the bench.

My gauge barely moves at all, even with the grid heaters cycling on/off. I think you need a new voltage regulator.

Good luck, and post up a few pics...

PatJ

Thanx guys that was helpfull. The volt gauge I see is jump from like 10 volts to 12 volts. ( When its cold and the grid heater is cycling) I figured that was normal but what I see at idle its like the needle is loose and is vibrating.
I try and get some pics up for you guys.