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New owner, got acouple questions?

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Old 12-08-2006, 11:34 AM
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New owner, got acouple questions?

I got a few questions.
I purchased a '95 3500 CTD w/ 207,xxx miles.
The transmission was out of it, and the kid had it out 3 or 4 times and got fed up with it.
So we picked it up fairly cheap, its in great running order, has 370 injectors, fuel plate, bigger injection system, K&N CAI, ect ect.. it basically has all the engine mods that can be done.

Anyways, the fuel shutoff solenoid doesn't work, it fried.
We had acouple of these in our shop before that eaither rusted up and we could clean and get operating again, or bite the bullet and pour $500 into a new one.
Well this one is unfortuneately fried...
I was wondering if any of you guys came up w/ a quick/cheap/efficant way to fix this problem w/o opening the hood and manually shutting it down?
If not, I'm sure my dads mechanical abilitys will find somthing, but I was just looking for somthing to save us time.

Also the kid said it gets about 45psi in overdrive under heavy throttle.. Is this safe?
Also what is safe for the EGTs to run?

I'll have following questions to follow, thanks in advance!

-Jared
Old 12-08-2006, 11:42 AM
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Quite a few folks have rigged up a choke type cable to push or pull to stop.
Never done one myself but have looked at what's involved, it would be very easy.
Personally I would never replace a solenoid if it was in fact shot when the cable is so easy.
Vast majority of solenoids are replaced needlessly, the problem usually lies elsewhere or just requires some cleaning.
Main reason for a real solenoid failure is stuck starter contacts. In this case the solenoid is visibly burnt on the outside from overheating.
Old 12-08-2006, 12:16 PM
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if it is your solenoid,

for 65$


you can use a bobcat# 6681513 if your bolts are 2.5" apart, you just have to change the plug.
Old 12-08-2006, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by TIMMY22
if it is your solenoid,

for 65$


you can use a bobcat# 6681513 if your bolts are 2.5" apart, you just have to change the plug.
Please clarify.
Old 12-08-2006, 10:12 PM
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Noone really answerd my other two questions?

Is 45PSI safe?

Also what are safe EGTs to run?


Anyways, we where thining about a shutoff solenoid off of another type of motor.. just haven't looked around yet, if we find a direct fit, or somthing similar, thats easy, ect.. we'll post a how-to!
Old 12-09-2006, 01:33 PM
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45 PSI is high unless you have the head o-ringed. 1250 is the magic number for egt's, pistons will not like that temp for too long. hope this helps
Old 12-09-2006, 07:38 PM
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i have found a few solenoids for around 250, but you have to look around for them..and the one i bought when mine went out was re-engineered so the top of the solenoid doesnt frie anymore
Old 12-09-2006, 08:13 PM
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When i got my truck it wouldnt pull itself up but if you turned the key and lifted it up manually it would hold. To solve this cheaply i made a choke cable off of a JD push lawnmower work. My problem was fixed by a new relay.
Old 12-09-2006, 10:41 PM
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At Rated engine speed/load the EGT's should not exceed 1400*F, or you will begin to deteriorate the exhaust manifolds. Your engine was designed to run up to this level 24/7 for the life of the engine. Few people achieve rated engine conditions on a pickup for more than a short period of time. Let your EGT's cool to 500*F prior to shutdown to avoid starving the turbo bearing of oil.
Old 12-09-2006, 11:52 PM
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The stock turbo is well out of its map at 45psi. Youre just blowing hot air and your EGTs will suffer. Id set the wastegate so it doesnt allow pressures over 35psi.
You can do 45PSI on a stock head gasket, but youd need head studs. Theres no guarantees with that either. Some folks go through the o-ringing, marine head gasket and studs and find they keep popping gaskets even at 40psi. Maybe its the luck of the draw with the machining and wire hardness. Id leave the o-ringing for after youve popped the stocker using studs.
Your pump timing will also affect the cylinder pressures and the amount of boost necessary to create problems.
Old 12-10-2006, 01:42 AM
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Originally Posted by TheBigNasty
When i got my truck it wouldnt pull itself up but if you turned the key and lifted it up manually it would hold. To solve this cheaply i made a choke cable off of a JD push lawnmower work. My problem was fixed by a new relay.
i had the same problem when i had my truck, so i just tied in a wire to the plug on the solenoid, and ran it to the starter on my truck so i had enough volts to pull up the plunger.
Old 12-11-2006, 12:10 PM
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I'll tell you this....my 35/40 hybrid blew apart at 47psi, and a buddies 35 did the same at 47psi. I wouldn't let that stocker go above 40, 35 being even better. I believe I might have a spare relay laying around, although i'm a poor college student i'll let you try it if you want if we could arrange a way to ship it. Shouldn't be much tho.
Old 12-12-2006, 06:11 PM
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Well if at 45PSI I'm only pushing hot air.. then whats the solution?
Should I look at getting a larger turbo? If so what size, brand, ect?

What would be my needs?

I'm not sure on specifics on what he has done, and what he doesn't.

This weekend I'm pulling it into the shop and putting the transmission back up in, im going to check the fuel plate, the timing, and the injection pump, to see what modifications he made.

He said they're all aftermarket, and he also has 370 inj...

Is there anything else I should be looking at?
Old 12-12-2006, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Mcmopar
Please clarify.
they made the solenoids with 2.5" and 3" on center bolt spacing. if yours is the 2.5" that # i gave you is good, you just have to change the plug.

black-ground
white-pull
red-hold

check your relay first!

http://www.fostertruck.com/images/st...it_diagram.jpg
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