New hub bearing now ABS light on
11-17-2009, 08:20 AM
#1
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New hub bearing now ABS light on
I just had my front left hub bearing assembly replaced at 105,000 miles, and now the ABS/brake lights are staying on.
I noticed a month or so ago the truck was making some noise on the left front tire, when turning right especially. I took it to my mechanic and he agreed that the hub was bad - there was quite a bit of play when jacking the truck up and moving the tire back and forth.
I priced the hub bearing assemblies at O'reilly, Carquest, Dodge, etc and ended up buying one from O'reilly for $401.00, out the door.
Dodge wanted $466 plus tax and Carquest 416.00 plus tax. O'reilly did have a cheaper one for 267.00, but the parts man said he had installed 2 of those and both went out in 6 months, so I opted for the other one (National brand).
Anyway, I took the hub to my mechanic, and he installed it for $65 labor. Picked the truck up, and now ABS/brake lights are on. Told mechanic before I left, and he said it may be the aftermarket hub with the new sensor not syncing up. I told him I would drive it a couple of days and see if they go off, and if not I would bring it back and he would put the scan tool on it or maybe put the old sensor back on.
Anybody else have a similiar situation?
I noticed a month or so ago the truck was making some noise on the left front tire, when turning right especially. I took it to my mechanic and he agreed that the hub was bad - there was quite a bit of play when jacking the truck up and moving the tire back and forth.
I priced the hub bearing assemblies at O'reilly, Carquest, Dodge, etc and ended up buying one from O'reilly for $401.00, out the door.
Dodge wanted $466 plus tax and Carquest 416.00 plus tax. O'reilly did have a cheaper one for 267.00, but the parts man said he had installed 2 of those and both went out in 6 months, so I opted for the other one (National brand).
Anyway, I took the hub to my mechanic, and he installed it for $65 labor. Picked the truck up, and now ABS/brake lights are on. Told mechanic before I left, and he said it may be the aftermarket hub with the new sensor not syncing up. I told him I would drive it a couple of days and see if they go off, and if not I would bring it back and he would put the scan tool on it or maybe put the old sensor back on.
Anybody else have a similiar situation?
11-17-2009, 11:40 AM
#3
It's a different vehicle, 98 Jimmy, but same issue. When I got a new hub there was a new sensor with it because the stock one wouldn't work with the new hub.
The sensors are distance sensitive, they need to be close to the teeth to give a good signal. It could be that the new hub and old sensor are not a good match, or there is some grit in there causing sensor misallignment or it's not hooked up, or the wires got stressed and broken during the new hub install...hard to tell without being there and testing it electrically.
C
The sensors are distance sensitive, they need to be close to the teeth to give a good signal. It could be that the new hub and old sensor are not a good match, or there is some grit in there causing sensor misallignment or it's not hooked up, or the wires got stressed and broken during the new hub install...hard to tell without being there and testing it electrically.
C
11-17-2009, 09:40 PM
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When he put the dust shield back on, I'll bet he ran the wiring on the wrong side and the rotor rubbed through the insulation on the cable to the ABS sensor. Shorted it out. I hope he still has the old hubs with the ABS sensors. They can be swapped out, old for new and work fine. (Don't ask how I know)LOL
11-17-2009, 10:11 PM
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11-18-2009, 07:45 AM
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When he put the dust shield back on, I'll bet he ran the wiring on the wrong side and the rotor rubbed through the insulation on the cable to the ABS sensor. Shorted it out. I hope he still has the old hubs with the ABS sensors. They can be swapped out, old for new and work fine. (Don't ask how I know)LOL
Before I left, I told him what was going on with the lights, and he said if it didn't go off, he would try putting the old sensor back on. I haven't pulled the tire yet to see if the sensor is routed correctly. This evening I'm going to disconnect the battery to see if it will reset itself and lights will hopefully stay off.
11-18-2009, 08:05 PM
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Good that you bought the National. That's a Federal Mogul brand like Moog and I believe it's made in our country by our fellow Americans. I don't trust the lesser outrageously expensive parts made in China. For the cost, I'm pretty disappointed these parts don't last the life of the vehicle. Mine are on their way out at 118k miles. The lower ball joints are shot and the original uppers ($193 each for Moogs) have crumbling boots. I kinda miss the old grease-able joints and $40 bearings.
Your ABS light will go off in less than a mile as soon as the problem is corrected. I've set mine off several times while working on the truck looking for an illusive vibration.
Your ABS light will go off in less than a mile as soon as the problem is corrected. I've set mine off several times while working on the truck looking for an illusive vibration.
01-07-2010, 03:01 PM
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Problem was a pin in the new ABS plug on the end that is on the frame. When you pushed the connectors together, one of the pins was pushing back and not making a good connection.
01-29-2010, 01:27 PM
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Well, the grinding noise is back! And it is the same left front hub. Surely it is not out already. There is noise from left front tire when turning right, noise goes away when I turn back left.
I jacked the truck up and there is no movement when grabbing the wheel top and bottom and pushing back and forth. There is a little movement when grabbing at 9 and 3 o'clock and pulling back and forth. Could I need ball joints now, or is the new wheel bearing already bad?
BTW, it was a National brand hub assembly from O'Reilly for $401, I believe with a 1yr warranty. The guy behind the counter suggested I get that one vs the cheaper one, which he said wouldn't last 3 months.
110,000 miles on the truck.
I jacked the truck up and there is no movement when grabbing the wheel top and bottom and pushing back and forth. There is a little movement when grabbing at 9 and 3 o'clock and pulling back and forth. Could I need ball joints now, or is the new wheel bearing already bad?
BTW, it was a National brand hub assembly from O'Reilly for $401, I believe with a 1yr warranty. The guy behind the counter suggested I get that one vs the cheaper one, which he said wouldn't last 3 months.
110,000 miles on the truck.
