Het guys, just wanted to sya thanks for havin htis great sight out her eto help all of the diesel owners out. I'm new to this game and was just wondering on where I should start a sfar as mods go. I don't have the money to drop into turbo's or anyhting like that right now but down the line I will. I bought a 1993 W250 CTD that is all stock. It's got 110K miles and runs like a top. As of right now It does need a muffler. I don't really want to spend $125 on a parfts store one if I can get one from Banks or someone for the same price. <br> I hear alot of talk about these POD injectors, how are they? Expensive? Easy/hard to install? I'll be doing most of the mods on the truck myself so any info you guys and gals can give me would be appreciated. I have to take it from the simple to the more top end stuff for now. Money is a concern right now so keep that in mind.

get a set of guages and then you can turn the pump up!! ;D

There are a number of great options available to you that will do everything Banks can do, only far less costly. Don't get me wrong, Gale Banks makes fine products that are pretty much guaranteed to fit, but the &quot;premium&quot; for the name is too high for me personally.

Guages are a must. No discussion, they are a must...
You won't have any idea what affects, good or bad, you mods/changes have had without them. Not only that, but they may just save your engine's life.
Pyro, boost, tach, to start with. If you have an auto, you'll need a tranny temp guage to.

Pump tweaks are free and will give you a nice jump in performance.
Have the injector pump timing re-set to about 15* advance or 1.45-1.5mm lift, if that is how your shop does it. Either way.
The POD's are a great jump in HP with about 50 RWHP from them alone. They'll run you about $440 USD from PDR. They are tuned/balanced before being sent out and they include all you need to install, except tools.
High flow airfilter is a good start either K&amp;N or AFE.
Exhaust change down the road, to free up all the restrictions in the stock system.

Bob.

First of all welcome you'll love it over here!

I agree - gauges are a must. Gauges - EGT and boost then you can start &quot;tweaking&quot; - it's free. Let her breath air and fuel in exhaust out. Another injector option are the Bosch 185's. If you do it all carefully and watch you right foot you could see mileage increases - I have :)
Bob

what is the price for the 185 injectors? how much HP would I get from them? thanksDM01

I'm thinkin the 185's are good for at least 30 RWHP, maybe more with some pump tweaks.. ???<br><br>J-eh

Do you guys have any suggestions on what brand gauges are the bes? What do you like and why? I'm looking into them now and there are so many that it's hard to decide. All of the companies are good but what are the pros and cons. Also what do you like for exhaust? As of right now I need a muffler and maybe a tailpipe. Should I just buy an auto parts stor brand or go with the good stuff from one of the big names? Any suggestions would help this noobie out. Thanks!

I went thru the same thing with the large amount of gauges avail. Someone recommended di-pricol and i think they were right. http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?src=suggestions&amp;A=1008 I ordered some from Geno's garage with a pillar mount for around $200.00 complete shipping and all. (boost 35lb,Pyro with probe, and pillar mount (white faces))<br> -Jim-

Im quite fond of the Autometer Ultra Lights. I have been running the Isspro gauges for about 1 1/2 years now. I dont like them as well as the new and improved Isspro EV series gauges due to the glare of the lighting at different angles in the gauge and the amount of light that they put out. If I had it to do over, I would have went with the Ultralights or the di-procol gauges.

Looks like no one wants to answer your exhaust questions. ??? Surprising and unusual. I hesitate because - 1. I'm mechanically disadvantaged 2. I have a 24 valve which will make some difference. But, here goes...<br> You say the muffler and tail pipe are bad, so probably the exhaust is not far behind. What I would do is put 4&quot; on all the way back - leave off the muffler, and, because of the hard nosed troopers in the east, keep/replace the cat. If the cost is prohibitive for the full length just go with 4&quot; from the muff on back. However you decide to go, I would get it from Rip Rook. Top quality components and the lowest prices. Contact Rip Rook at (503) 654-9004. He'll be glad to talk to you, give you honest advice and always fair.<br> Now...if I've given bad advice I guarantee you'll hear from others. [laugh] [laugh] [laugh]

I would not put a muffler on unless you do not like the noise. The first gen trucks do not have a cat. I would go strait pipe with a mandrel bent tail pipe.<br><br>Paul

How much does the sound increas going from no muffler to a straight pipe? The tailpipoe itself isn't bad it's just the mufflers outlet rotted off. The rest of the muffler is actually good. What size down pipe do these things have and does anybody sell a mandrel bent tailpipe or should I just buy an aftermarket?

I'm not sure of the size of the pipe on a 93. Mine is 3&quot;. Yours would either be 3&quot; or 3 1/2&quot;.

Db inside the truck not much louder with straight pipe but the &quot;tone&quot; is better, especially with 4&quot;. Outside is somewhat louder, enough to sound good but not enough to attract the attention of the gendarmes.

Any decent muffler shop can install a mandrel bent tail pipe. Key word &quot;decent&quot;.. Not having the funds for what I really wanted - 4&quot; from turbo to tip (5&quot; tip) I just took the muffler off and put a piece of mandrel bent in the place of the muffler.

Again, for good advice on parts &amp; prices Call Rip Rook. Number is above.

Welcome BigRam,<br><br> I agree with the others about the muffler, DUMP it and go straight pipe. The noise difference is not that great, and the tone is SWEET. I've had several comments about my truck, as to what muffler I'm running, I just smile and say don't got one, even had the local Po Po make a good comment, he liked it better than them --mn thumpers that pull up beside you at the light. But you gotta get gauges.

I can install whatever parts I have to myself. I do have an exhaust shop that I could have do it. No one makes one for these trucks in this size-is that the problem? I would just need some type of connector from the down pipe to the new 4&quot; straight pipe, correct? Thanks for all the help guys!! I appreciate it. I don't mean to be a pain in the a** noobie but I really don't know much about Diesels yet. The only way to learn is to question the knowledgable, right?

BigRam,<br>There are several exhaust systems available. The pipe downstream of the downpipe has several bends to clear the trans. and t.case! It may be easier to buy it properly bent ;). Don't know if it's &quot;legal&quot; to mention Rip Rooks but they do have a 3&quot; downpipe into 4&quot; the rest of the way system. Jbolt has mentioned Allied Muffler in the past as a source also- maybe he can jump in! Rips web address is protintnw.com/sa_dodge~exh.htm<br>&quot;brick&quot;

What do you all recomment? My state inspection requires I have a muffler?<br><br>Thanks,<br>Howard

If you go to any big truck shop they have adapters that can change from 3&quot; to 4&quot;, or whatever you need. One suggestion though, since I made this mistake myself. When I got rid of the muffler, I decided just to put a 5&quot; tip right out in front of the rear tire, making the cost almost nothing for a nice sounding exhaust. The only problem was, with my pump turned up and more smoke, it actually was turning my wheel black from the carbon. So either go with the full exhaust that exits behind the back wheel, or put stacks on!! (I just put mine on and I love em)