Duck Hunter

First off, I'd like to thank everyone for their responses to all my questions (which are mostly basic questions for you all!). I've learned a ton about diesels since becoming a member of this site and enjoy reading the posts you all put up. With that said, I need some more advice - and some of this will be purely opinion, but give it to me anyway!

My signature contains the vital info on my truck, but in the effort of saving you scrolling time, I'll post it here as well:
2001 3/4 Ton QC Laramie SLT (all options - leather too) - Nerf bars, 4" exhaust all the way, pillar pyro, boost and oil temp and Western Turbo RPM II 5 stage 120 hp power chip (and my truck is green with mirror chip plates). I want to do some more performance upgrades as the cash allows. Here is what I was thinking of doing:
-Fuel Pressure Gauge
-Airaid Cold Air Intake
-Southbend Clutch (up to 350 or 450 hp?)
-Injectors of some sort
-Shift kit?
What all will I have to change off my truck that's stock to accomodate all of the above items (current mods and future mods)? Other than the clutch, what type of transmission work will I need to have done? The transmission is bare stock, with orginal clutch (at 120,000+).

What type of injectors would you all recommend for a decent HP boost without getting too crazy in price? Also, are there any kinds of shift kits you can buy for these trucks to make shifting smoother/faster/etc.? All right, thanks in advance for any info or advice you can give me. It's much appreciated!

Thomas

PourinDiesel

Get a set of injectors in the 80hp area, extrude honed.
They'll run you about $400-500 used, new about $600.

Probably a scotty 2 or an AFE megacannon air filter setup.
I am a little biased towards the Megacannon for more CFM.
But, the scotty beats it out for temps in moderately modified trucks.

--Justin

Diesel Dave

I have a Trans-go shift kit in my truck and have had good luck with it. It is supposed to reduce the time between shifts, which reduces wear on the transmission. However, alot of guys will buy an aftermarket (DTT, ATS, etc.) valve body instead if they have the money.

70crewcab

I'd get the SBC ConFE clutch first. The new power adders will blow through the stock one in short fashion.

The FE will give you room to grow, easier than stock pedal and 550+ hp of holding power.

Next would be injectors. I'd put stage 3-4s.. 100-120hp.. 100s are about a perfect trade for power and little smoke.

The short throw shifter can happen any time.

There's a whole world of stuff to do later ;D 8)

Duck Hunter

Sounds good guys - keep coming with the comments! I was thinking first about replacing the stock air box. Do you not recommend the AirAid box? A buddy of mine said he wasn't personally familiar with them but he's heard good things about them. What do you have know/have heard? I was figuring that the sequence of updating would go: Replace airbox, do transmission, replace injectors . . . and then from there who knows.

Thomas

70crewcab

Then there's , ridding your truck of banjo bolts, port, fire-ring and studding the head, Twin turbos of many flavors, nitrous, propane, water/methanol injection, custom inter/aftercoolers... the list goes on

BIG&BAD

i like my scotty air II
and the price isnt bad
give rod a call or go to wildcat website http://www.wildcatdiesel.com/
wildcat has great customer service

HOHN

[quote author=Duck Hunter link=board=7;threadid=23176;start=0#msg217265 date=1070415440]
First off, I'd like to thank everyone for their responses to all my questions (which are mostly basic questions for you all!). I've learned a ton about diesels since becoming a member of this site and enjoy reading the posts you all put up. With that said, I need some more advice - and some of this will be purely opinion, but give it to me anyway!

My signature contains the vital info on my truck, but in the effort of saving you scrolling time, I'll post it here as well:
2001 3/4 Ton QC Laramie SLT (all options - leather too) - Nerf bars, 4" exhaust all the way, pillar pyro, boost and oil temp and Western Turbo RPM II 5 stage 120 hp power chip (and my truck is green with mirror chip plates). I want to do some more performance upgrades as the cash allows. Here is what I was thinking of doing:
-Fuel Pressure Gauge
-Airaid Cold Air Intake
-Southbend Clutch (up to 350 or 450 hp?)
-Injectors of some sort
-Shift kit?
What all will I have to change off my truck that's stock to accomodate all of the above items (current mods and future mods)? Other than the clutch, what type of transmission work will I need to have done? The transmission is bare stock, with orginal clutch (at 120,000+).

What type of injectors would you all recommend for a decent HP boost without getting too crazy in price? Also, are there any kinds of shift kits you can buy for these trucks to make shifting smoother/faster/etc.? All right, thanks in advance for any info or advice you can give me. It's much appreciated!

Thomas
[/quote]

Thomas, I quoted you so I can best address the points you raised. Since you have a 5-speed (not an auto), you have a pretty strong setup. The only real concern with the 5-speed is the 5th gear nut. The nut tends to back off and then you lose 5th gear. You will want to have a splined replacement installed. Standard Transmission in TX has a complete 5th gear fix kit, as do other tranny shops.

For clutches, thy the South Bends. The Con OFE or Con FE is a great choice-- the OFE being the tamer of the two.

Since you have the ETC engine, it will really respond to a box. Since the timing on the Edge boxes is too much, try the TST PMAX in the competition flavor. It will fuel with anything on the market, and you will never have to worry about a box upgrade. They're very reliable also.

I would go with the largest injectors you can handle with the box off. I love my DD2s-- they're probably the standard street performance injector. No point in going smaller, really. If you tow heavy (max gvwr), go one size smaller on the injects-- around 75-80 hp. If you don't tow much, go with a 100hp injector or bigger. I HIGHLY recommend the EDMs when you get over 100hp, because they atomize SO MUCH BETTER-- you get a LOT more torque, more mpg, better idle, etc. Try Don M's Formula 1 diesel injectors. A Mach 3 is a VERY stout injector...

The first bomb you should make to ANY 24V is a Fuel pressure guage, bar none. This is a must even for a stock truck. THEN, add your pyro and boost gauges (in that order) BEFORE you increase the fueling to the engine (box or injectors).

For an air system, I would recommend the Scotty2. It may not flow quite as much as a megacannon, but it flows plenty and gives you cooler air. You won't outgrow the Scotty.

You need to lose the stock banjos. Go with the Wildcat hi-flow setup...the replacement bandaids are really just a stopgap and I don't recommend them.

You will need to get the head sealing setup properly if you are going to exceed 45psi of boost regularly. The ETC engines handle more boost (than the ETHs) because of the lower compression ratio. Try the fire rings. You don't really need studs if the bolts are torqued to spec.

I would also recommend a DD cam. It's not cheap ($1500) but it's REALLY worth it if you are going to get to the higher power levels (over 450hp). The more power you make, the more you need it. The DD cam is the best, bar none, but not cheap.

Justin

Duck Hunter

Hohn,

Thanks for all the detailed info. Sorry to show my ignorance here, but what are the "banjos"? I'm new to diesel trucks, and bombing vehicles in general, so I'm not "down" with all the terminology! Thanks.

Thomas

70crewcab

The banjo's are bolts used to connect the fuel lines to the fixtures on the engine. they don't flow well at all. picture a hollow bold with a solid head and holes in the side of it to let fuel through.

FWIW,
Mark

PourinDiesel

Justin,

The "DD cam best bar none"???

"edge timing too much"???

DD makes a good cam, the best? maybe for some.
Everyone has their own needs and desires.
There is people in this world making alot more Horsepower than DD and they are not using DD cams.
I am not badmouthing their products, I happend to have a respect for their products.

If Edge's timing was too much, you wouldnt see everyone and their brother that has a Powermax 3 stacking an EDGE EZ with it!!
It works.

By the way, why is the timing too much?? What are the ill effects? I am waiting for them, I have an Edge Custom comp and have ran it for over 20,000 miles.

Fire rings? for a moderately modified truck?
That cut in the head and block, thats in the thousands of dollars for the labor.

I would suggest regular O rings or just a properly torqued head.

I speak from experience, and I want to save people money.

--Justin

MCummings

If you can ship your own head, I can arrange for it to be O-ringd for under $300, and you could complete the job yourself for about $500

A Fire Ring headgasket from haisleys cost close to $300, and the headstuds are $400, and you haven't even begun the Job!
Labour alone will be about $700

Too much timing in the Edge products? Timing is what makes more power, and helps cool down EGT. As Justin said, the Edge EZ has been stacked with the PM3 by hundreds of people, with great success.

I think the DD cam is a great cam,, better than the Piers Cam, but untill we get electronicly operated valves, there wil never be the "best" cam. There might be a best all around cam, but my 12V truck, operating at 3,500 to 4,800RPM won't be able to use the same Cam as my 24V operating at 1,700 to 3,100RPM.

On an '01 you would be well off with the FASS fuel system. It comes with 1/2" line, a complete install kit. Removes all the banjo's, and replaces the OE lift pump. Most people see mileage, and HP increases, along with less smoke because of the way the pump operates, it removes the air in the fuel, before it gets into the injection pump.

An EDM injector is about $700 for an 80HP, along with a $200 core. EDM's have much more usable power. (less smoke) An EDM will smoke less putting out more HP at zero boost than an Extrude hone.

I would run an AFE MegaCannon. I am partial to them, as I have one on my truck, and a few customers trucks, and they filter excellent, and flow plenty of air. The new Proguard 7 filters even better, but doesn't flow AS Much, and costs a little more.

I think you will be really happy with a 13" Conversion Con OFE (unless you have a 6-speed, then you won't need the "conversion&quot

If you drive really hard, with lots of clutch slipping, then the FE would be right for you. My OFE Conversion has heldt 457RWHP for 20,000 miles, and I am upgrading only because I want to run more HP.

Old School would be a set of Extrude Hone injectors, High Flow fuel line kit, a SBC, and an unmodified HX-40.

New School would be Fass Fuel System, B-1 or Hybrid turbo, EDM injectors, O-ringd head, maybe head porting, a 13" South Bend Clutch, and a cam. It will depend on your budget.

That's my take on the situation.
Let me know what you thik, or if you have any questions. Feel free to dipute me, or question my reasoning.

Merrick Cummings Jr

hellotbone

You have some of the recepie already you need to decide where you are going now how much you want and how much you want to spend.


Get a clutch first you have everything else gauges etc you already have then get a big injector and a new turbo.

70crewcab

the cost of cutting fire-rings vs o-rings is nil. the groove for the fire ring can go completely in the head leaving the blick untouched.

Every truck over 500hp is working on borrowed time when it comes to a headgasket. they all blow some sooner some later. The inly way to put the HG out of your mind is Fire-Rings.

the Haisley gasket and fire rings retails for $225. You'll need ~$15 worth of miscelaneous gaskets, and a $400 set of studs.

Most customers will port and freshen up the head while it's apart.

To pay ashop to do the whole job, port, ring, deck, r/r usually adds up to ~$2200.

Most folks are VERY happy with the Edge Drag Comp. I prefer a separate timing and fueling box.(stacking them as mentioned earlier)

Later,
Mark

HOHN

Well, what it boils down to is this: Merrick and Mark run diesel shops. Justin has a lot of experience over THIS Justin. My comment about the DD cam being best refers mostly to it being strong and new, not a regrind from a cast core. Their R&D on the cam has been extensive. For most guys who stay under 4K rpm, the DD cam is tough to beat. As Don likes to say, it's also got the marine gear config-- a lot tougher.

The comment about the Edge boxes and timing is one i get a lot of flak for. It's ok. If "everyone" is stacking, then I must be crazy not to consider it. Then again, there's that old saying about jumping off a cliff.

I agree that there's a shortage of people who have done engine damage by stacking. At least the PMAX/EZ stacks seem to be safe. Not the case with Ottomind/EZ and other "stacks". i always ask myself why TST didn't dial in more/any timing to their boxes if this was such a holy grail?? Could it be that the drop in EGT and the few extra hp were more than offset by what they felt was unacceptable risk?

i also ask myself why DD was compelled to dial down the timing on their flavors of the Edge boxes. Any idea why? I have an email from Keith stating that they noticed the timing of the EZ to be excessive when used with their injectors. He even alluded to multiple dyno tests that Lawrence had done, and mentioned that he felt that engine damage was a VERy real possiblility under certain loading conditions. Bottom line: The Edge boxes have ragged-edge timing with STOCK injectors. Add showerheads and all bets are off.

So I choose to play it safe. I figure that too little timing is losing a few HP. Too much however, can mean Ka-Boom. I tend to walk a little safer path. i wish all the stackers continued success.

I have nothing but respect for Merrick and Mark and Justin-- they have certainly seen 10 times more CTD performance stuff than I have. Heck, all i can do is read and read and reason things out best I can. Thanks to all you guys who blow a lot of $$ and hard parts to let me learn for free.


justin