shaft

I just changed my front rotors and pads, and the rear pads about a week ago. Now I'm experiencing this squeaking noise coming from the brakes. I'm not certain why it would be making this noise since I just did this brake job. One thing I noticed is that the noise is more prevalent when I'm on the brakes while making a turn. Anybody have an idea on what I should check for? Please advise.

Delectric

That is an incredibly common problem. It's a vibration and can be anything from poor quality brakes, warped rotors, dirt, grease, missing shims (if equiped with originally) etc., etc., etc. When I do a brake job I clean everything I can so that all the caliper, rotor, pads are as dust and dirt free as possible (no finger prints on the rotors). Torque everything to spec, rotors especially. If that doesn't work you can try some anti squeal stuff but I have found it generally only lasts a short time. Brake pads need to be "broken in" in the same sense that rings are seated in the cylinder. Most people don't have the patience to break them in as they should. Many times the pads aren't cured properly (because of break-in) and the resins are heated to fast, raise to the surface of the pad, glaze over and squeal. Anyway, thats all I can think of, I'm sure others wll add more.

Mr Bee

delectric is correct.... there is a product that goes on the back of the pads that acts like a sound dampener and reduces the squeal....
The biggest culprit is very gentle braking glazeing the pads.... Next time it makes the squeal noise, get to speed and get on the brakes and see if the squeal stops for a little while... If so you are glazing your pads and by stopping with some force you are cleaning the surface.
If you are on a dusty road it can get into your pads and cause noise...

Did you turn your rotors ? If you did not turn the rotors and just replaced the pads then that is likely the issue.

shaft

new rotors and pads up front, just new pads in the rear.

Bark

shaft! Just wondering how many miles you had on the truck before the break job?

shaft

50K at break job. Front rotors had some deep grooves and I did not want those turned so I just replaced them.

Hounddog

Used non factory pads?

shaft

Yes. Bought Duralast Gold.

Hounddog

Bet thats your squeek.

SuperGewl

Doesn't matter what pads you put on, they all squeal. I had the ******* put on Value line and then OEM and they all squeal over time. They turned the rotors and then I had them replaced(les than 30k miles). The squeal is back, then it goes away for awhile, then it's back. Other than that they work just fine and the last place I took them refused to put pads on. THere was > than 80% on the front and 70% ont he rear. I guess they really didnt' want my money.

Bark

Thanks for the info Shaft. Judging by your and others replies I guess its about time to change my pads.

Hounddog

I found that issue to be greatly reduced using OE brake pads.

Rough-n-Ready

I agree on the OE pads. Another issue that I don't like is the dirty black brake dust that I have experienced with aftermarket pads. That stuff is a dirty bugger to clean off! The dust does not seem to be as much of a problem with the OE pads. I think it has something to do with the semi-metallic construction of the pads??

Gray Ram

HI Shaft
Glad to hear ya didn't turn rotors. I was told not to turn rotors by a very good diesel wrench that works at a DODGE dealership. I do a lot of hauling & he said if not vibrating when applying brake just change the pads. Otherwise install new rotors also. As anything else ( you get what you pay for). I have 260K on my 05 Quad Cab 4x4 CTD.Changed brakes all around at 250k with Monroe Prem. OEM pads. Included new shim pack& slider lube. Had a bit of noise first couple 1000 miles.And then was fine. Don't know if any of this helped? But just haul a heavy load and seat brakes & go from there. Later, Gray Ram

Delectric

[QUOTE=Gray Ram;1620201]HI Shaft
Glad to hear ya didn't turn rotors. I was told not to turn rotors by a very good diesel wrench that works at a DODGE dealership.


The mechanic is correct if the rotors are new, good condition and aren't bolted to the hub. One of the main reasons for not turning a good rotor is because turning them will balance and true the rotor to the lathe (and the centering cones) being used to cut them, not on your bearings. If it is possible to turn a rotor while installed on the truck, which some shops can do to some vehicles then the trueing is done on your bearings and will stay that way. Now when you can bolt a rotor and hub together then turning is usually a good idea too but with the slip on rotors there is no point. Hope this makes sense, it's a little hard to explain unless you've been in a shop turning drums and rotors.