12Vmudder

Hey guys,

I bought this truck as a low budget project until I get out of college and can through some money at it but so far all I've done is whats in my sig... I replaced the clutch with a barely used stock size Southbend OFE from one of my buddies and it seems to be doing great. Other than that I just recently took the fuel plate out, slide the AFC all the way forward, and loosened the Starwheel some but not all the way. I ordered a full set of ISSPRO gauges and should get them tomorrow. So my question is I guess what do you recommend I do next to get the most benefit out of it for reasonably low money? I'm thinking a 4GSK and heavier valve springs but dont know how hard it is to install the heavier valve springs with the GSK.. I also dont know if I need to adjust the timing. I'm thinking about grinding the plate to a 0 and throwin it back in but wanted to get your advice. Also what is gutting the afc?

Thanks a bunch guys I know these are typically asked questions but I just wanted to be sure what I was doing

12Vmudder

displacedtexan

I'd put the plate back in, prob as a 100... But it's your truck, a lot of guys like the 0.

I would definately do the timing, and a GSK, you can do the 4k without the springs and just watch your RPM, then do the springs later.

IMHO gutting the AFC is pointless, I'd tune it. Gutting it removes the arm. That removes an element to control the fuel delivery, you can deliver plenty of fuel at a more controlled rate with it in.

12Vmudder

Thanks for the reply...Ya I think I'm going to try and cut either a 100 or a 0 this weekend and throw that back in full forward...Do you know where the cheapest/best place to pick up a 4K kit would be? What do you suggest I bump the timing to? If I picked up the heavier valve springs with the GSK kit how hard are they to install with the head on?

kas83

Do a 100 plate to start with, that way you still have some control over low-end fueling. 15-16* timing is all thats recommended on stock headgasket and bolts, it's a safe limit, and it really wakes the truck up too. And doing the valve springs with the head on can be very tricky, but is doable. Lots of time and patience and you can do it.

dieselman2300

http://www.citydiesel.net/

They have them the cheapest.

12Vmudder

Ya thats looks cheaper than anywhere else I've seen a 4K kit for sale. Do you guys recommend getting some king of boost bolt to control how much boost I build or should I just block the wastegate? Also what do you think the safe limit is on RPM's until the heavier valve springs are installed? 3200? Thanks in advance for the help

dieselman2300

Do you have a stock elbow on your housing now?

sewman

It's helps to have high rpm f/pullin,but it won't help you in street or drag racing.So if your not pullin save ur $$ for something else.Do you have guages?

dieselman2300

Most 12 valves dont make any more power after 3200-3400rpms on a dyno.

dieselman2300

you can do the 4k without the springs and just watch your RPM, then do the springs later.


I used to write/say the same thing. I just pulled the head to do a head gasket. You should see the bend in the #6 exhaust pushrod.
If you do a 4k do the springs. But like I said, most street driven 12valves let alone Cummins dont make any more power over 3200-3400 rpm on a dyno.

I will be taking out one of my springs this weekend and will set it to pull to 3400 rpm.

12Vmudder

Ya I just got my new gauges in the mail today so I will be tackling that tomorrow..I got ISSPRO 1500 EGT, 60 lb boost, and 60 lb fuel pressure..Ya it still has whatever is stock on the turbo now..Its never been touched. Also I wont be pulling it this summer because its no where near ready so I will probably never take it over 3000 racing people and dynoing.

displacedtexan

DM-

Did you rev that engine very high? Reason I ask is I have kicked around the idea of putting 4k springs in mine at aome point, I have no intrest in the higher revs as I just don't feel right reving that high, and realize the power has dropped of, but want the harder fueling down low. I was not intending to touch my valve springs untill the head comes off. (All of this is a ways off)

12Vmudder

displaced-

I have not installed a 4K kit in it yet...Right now it defuels around 2500..I am planning on ordering the 4K kit this weekend without the heavier valve springs and installing it when I get it..I'm like you in that I dont plan to rev over 2800-3000 and that would only be in racing situations...I'm going to pull the head next winter to prep it for pulling

rolling18

sounds like an excellent plan of attack to me...
any idea what power your making with what you have done so far compared to stock?

12Vmudder

rolling-

I didnt have gauges installed last weekend when I took the plate out and adjusted the AFC and starwheel so when I test drove it I took it fairly easy on it but I could definately tell there was a big increase in power. I would assume just doing all of that might be close to 100 hp or a little less.