Need Help w/gauge install today?
#1
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Need Help w/gauge install today?
I/m in the garage, ready to install my boost/pyro/fuel kit from Vulcan.
They were supposedly available for tech support, but they're not
I need help getting started
Anybody available?
They were supposedly available for tech support, but they're not
I need help getting started
Anybody available?
#2
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I have Isspro EV mechanical gauges, 12v 98 engine
plan to tap manifold pre turbo
Doing the dash mount, down by the windshield not up on top of the dash
thanks
plan to tap manifold pre turbo
Doing the dash mount, down by the windshield not up on top of the dash
thanks
#3
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I talked to Erik at Vulcan, he was great walking me through this.
I probably won't get the electrical hooked up today,
but I think I"ll get the gauges installed.
I hope its ok to drive the truck with the tubing connected but the electrical
not...
I probably won't get the electrical hooked up today,
but I think I"ll get the gauges installed.
I hope its ok to drive the truck with the tubing connected but the electrical
not...
#4
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Youll be fine with the electrical unconnected.
The electrical is just for the lighting (although it depends on which guages you have). When I have a minute Ill post up some pics.
The electrical is just for the lighting (although it depends on which guages you have). When I have a minute Ill post up some pics.
#5
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i also installed the dash top gauges and one on the steering column. if you have any questions let me know. i am no expert on it, but i did learn a couple things doing it this way.
for the electrical, i ran power from the cigarette lighter, and lighting from the illumination. i tapped into the cigarette lighter & illumination fuses with mini-fuse taps. much easier than hunting for and tapping the correct wires. i just popped the in-cab fuse panel cover and found the appropriate fuses on the map/diagram. i had to use a sharp blade (scalpel, utility, pocket knife) to slightly cut away some plastic of the appropriate fuse housings to accommodate the extra millimeter the fuse tap takes up. heating up the blade prior to cutting/scraping helps too.
also, to help secure the dash top mount, i bought some adhesive velcro and put two small 'L' brackets on the front of the pod to assist in holding it down with the one screw mount it comes with.
hope this helps.
for the electrical, i ran power from the cigarette lighter, and lighting from the illumination. i tapped into the cigarette lighter & illumination fuses with mini-fuse taps. much easier than hunting for and tapping the correct wires. i just popped the in-cab fuse panel cover and found the appropriate fuses on the map/diagram. i had to use a sharp blade (scalpel, utility, pocket knife) to slightly cut away some plastic of the appropriate fuse housings to accommodate the extra millimeter the fuse tap takes up. heating up the blade prior to cutting/scraping helps too.
also, to help secure the dash top mount, i bought some adhesive velcro and put two small 'L' brackets on the front of the pod to assist in holding it down with the one screw mount it comes with.
hope this helps.
#6
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thanks, I'll probably be asking for wiring details when I get there.
RIGHT NOW I have drilled my 11/32 hole in the manifold, per Geno's directions.
I have a new 1/8" TAP from Geno's
I need to know the correct procedure to tap--I don't need to break it off.
This has been the most scary part so I want to get done, right
thanks
RIGHT NOW I have drilled my 11/32 hole in the manifold, per Geno's directions.
I have a new 1/8" TAP from Geno's
I need to know the correct procedure to tap--I don't need to break it off.
This has been the most scary part so I want to get done, right
thanks
#7
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Just go slow and only run the tap 3/4 of the way in. If you go past that the fitting wont tighten enough. When I was drilling and tapping I had a buddy hold a shop vac to suck up all the cuttings. I cleaned the hole out using a q-tip with some grease on it. Just go slow and youll be ok.
Boost guage hookup:
Fuel Pressure hookup:
Boost guage hookup:
Fuel Pressure hookup:
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#9
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I need the truck today but I haven't completed the wiring.
On the pyro, if I install the sensor but don't hook up the wires coming from it,
do those wires need to be separated? I mean, should they NOT touch?
Same thing when they're hooked up...because I only received 2 heat resistant sleeves to cover them, and there's two places where there are connections...
My biggest problem right now is routing the wires from the middle of the dash (I have the wedged dash pod at the windshield)
So I"m really thinking about drilling a hole in the dash (which is already cracking, of course) and seeing if I can route behind the hvac ducts--
it looks like there's unused space behind the ductwork close to the windshield-does anybody know? I'd hate to drill into the duct!
I'd only be drilling a few inches from the windshield
My pyro wiring isn't enough to get to the pillar to route downwards...bummer
On the pyro, if I install the sensor but don't hook up the wires coming from it,
do those wires need to be separated? I mean, should they NOT touch?
Same thing when they're hooked up...because I only received 2 heat resistant sleeves to cover them, and there's two places where there are connections...
My biggest problem right now is routing the wires from the middle of the dash (I have the wedged dash pod at the windshield)
So I"m really thinking about drilling a hole in the dash (which is already cracking, of course) and seeing if I can route behind the hvac ducts--
it looks like there's unused space behind the ductwork close to the windshield-does anybody know? I'd hate to drill into the duct!
I'd only be drilling a few inches from the windshield
My pyro wiring isn't enough to get to the pillar to route downwards...bummer
#10
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Wow Dr. Evil, thanks for the pics--I didn't see them before my last reply.
Hmmm guess my tap was alll the way thru, which is why my adaptor threads snug but not tight.
So how big a problem did I create?
I applied anti-seize to threads as reccd by Erik at Vulcan...
Hmmm guess my tap was alll the way thru, which is why my adaptor threads snug but not tight.
So how big a problem did I create?
I applied anti-seize to threads as reccd by Erik at Vulcan...
#11
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I'm copying from another thread (the tap thread) to this thread because someone reading this thread might find these tidbits helpful...
"--if I install the pyro sensor but don't hook up the wires yet, do I need to keep the two wires separated? "
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"--if I install the pyro sensor but don't hook up the wires yet, do I need to keep the two wires separated? "
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#12
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Reply from Onemoparnut "No It wont hurt if the wires touch as long as there is no power hooked to either one."
#13
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Gotcha -- thanks.
So once there's power guess I need to use a heat sleeve on each wire to keep them separate..I received 2 heat sleeves with my kit, I can cut each in half for the connections on either end of the blue wire connecting the guage end to the sensor end
Should I just zip tie the heat sleeves? They are fabric, they don't look like the regular shrink tubing
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So once there's power guess I need to use a heat sleeve on each wire to keep them separate..I received 2 heat sleeves with my kit, I can cut each in half for the connections on either end of the blue wire connecting the guage end to the sensor end
Should I just zip tie the heat sleeves? They are fabric, they don't look like the regular shrink tubing
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#14
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#15
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Gotcha -- thanks.
So once there's power guess I need to use a heat sleeve on each wire to keep them separate..I received 2 heat sleeves with my kit, I can cut each in half for the connections on either end of the blue wire connecting the guage end to the sensor end
Should I just zip tie the heat sleeves? They are fabric, they don't look like the regular shrink tubing
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So once there's power guess I need to use a heat sleeve on each wire to keep them separate..I received 2 heat sleeves with my kit, I can cut each in half for the connections on either end of the blue wire connecting the guage end to the sensor end
Should I just zip tie the heat sleeves? They are fabric, they don't look like the regular shrink tubing
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