View Full Version : Need help with pinion seal...
12-11-2002, 11:03 PM
Got a '99 3500 4x4 with a leaky pinion seal. <br><br>I remember changing one on my F**D pickup, and it was pretty easy. Can anybody out there help me with some steps changing out the old one for a new one?<br><br>I'm assuming that you:<br>1- pull the driveline at the pumpkin<br>2- remove the large pinion/yoke nut<br>3- remove the rear yoke<br>4- pry old seal out<br>5- carefully and dilligently replace (drive) the new seal in<br>6- reverse the steps<br>7- top off (or replace) rear end oil<br><br>Is it that easy? or am I missing something.<br><br>Thanks for any input to a new Dodge truck owner, I'm trying to get this used purchased truck in tip top shape...<br><br>Pete
12-12-2002, 12:02 AM
My pinion seal leaked on my 99 from the day I owned it. :( I asked the dealer about it one time and they said all dana 80's had a little seep to them. I thought well that's fine it's not leaving any marks on the floor or anything maybe they're right. :) At the begining of this year I started noticing a drip on the foor of the garage from it and it gradually got worse. :( Took it to the dealer and they replaced it in 20 minutes at a total cost of $62.00. 8) The seal alone is a little over $34.<br><br>I was going to replace it myself till I read the shop manual and it said you had to use a torque wrench when removing the Yoke bolt to get the correct torque for replacing it. Sounded like a good way for me to screw up my rear diff. ::) :)<br><br>DB
ok your steps are correct , the part about the tourqe wrench is to see how tight the bolt was is sort of imprecise but a good starting point . See how much tourqe required to break nut loose and tighten to same spec on reassembly there is a crush collar for bearing preload behind everything if memory serves correctly and you dont want to crush it further upon retightening. Belive another method is to take an inch pound tourqe wrench and see how much required to turn differential<br>over (wheels off the ground) then on reassembly slowly tighten till this spec reached. And now If the truth must really<br>be told I have allways tightend back up with a 1/2 drive air impact but that is definetly a feel to develop Knock on wood I have never had a failure afterwards. But just as there is this sight there are many dedicated to axles , rear ends ect <br>search and read those . when its all said and done You should be able to do this easily>
12-12-2002, 01:22 PM
My 99 did the same thing when I first got it. I had it replaced at one *******, and it leaked even worse. I changed it my self the next time, and no seeping since 99.
12-12-2002, 09:43 PM
Hey- Thanks for the posts/reply's. They are all good info. I'll keep an eye on the fluid level for now, then If it drips on the floor (darrellb) I think I may replace it.
A search of Dana 80's may serve to be a help too...
My luck: I'll have to get 3 seals because the first 2 will be ruined when installed (without the exact driver/tool)
Maybe I'll get another chime that will sum it all up? I really like this truck, and the ;DBUGS [laugh] are almost gone from it...
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